dkillahster

Here is the deal.

I am, was, driving a 2001 Integra LS. And my motor blew because i let some idiot turn my boost up.. anyway..

I went ahead and bought another B18 motor to put in. And it's been all done.

My biggest concern is that, when i replaced the motor. I hooked up all wires, fuses and everything else. But what is stumping me is that the motor will spin over, but won't even attempt to start.

The motor will spin over as if the spark plugs are NOT in the head.

The spark plugs are right, the timing is right, the firing order is correct. all grounds have been connected.

I am getting Fuel, and I am Getting Spark.

but once again. it spins over as if it was not making any compression at all. it won't attempt to even start. But every now and then you can hear a small backfire.

so what does this seem like to you guys? Maybe the "replacement" engine might need some friendly persuasion?

And the starter is fine, All "blown" fuses have been replaced.

and another thing. I have a Viper Alarm system. do you guys think that the alarm system may have disabled everything? It may have "noticed" the engine was taken out of the vehicle? I dunno. All i also know is that when you push the "remote start" button on the remote. the remote fob just Makes a loud BUZZ and flashes the red light indicating that it will NOT start the car and something is wrong. It will however unlock and lock my vehicle. And worst of all it seems like it is the culprit.

I dunno, i hope i can receive help.

And since this is my first time owning a honda, i am trying to learn much about them as possible.

Because it gets hard driving a Nissan Maxipad for a while, then just all of a sudden hop into a Boosted LS.

LOL

anyway, any help is appreciated!! Thanks!

-Dave

tommygun89hb

I KNOW YOU SAID ALL YOUR WIRES WERE RE HOOKED UP CHECK YOUR GROUND ON THE WATER HOUSING

dkillahster

I DUNNO WHY YOU ARE YELLING AT ME. BUT YES, I already connected the Ground on the Water Housing (thermostat housing you mean?) and yes, i have a wire running from the thermostat ground to the negative battery terminal.

The ground going from the valve cover to the body has been redone to a 0 guage wire.. don't ask why..

The ground on the Transmissions has also been extended with a little extra wire running to the negative battery terminal..

Any other help? Please and thank you.

dkillahster

i read the code manually.

And the ABS light flashes 8 long, and 1 short.

Now where can i go to find that and decode that?

I never read codes manually before.

tommygun89hb

Sorry did not mean to yell at you i had the caps lock on and didnt relise it and when i did it was pure lazy ness sorry

Abs codes could be found here https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/ecu-abs-codes-here-978933/

you threw code 81 which is abs function. If it didnt throw this code before the motor swap it could possably be a vac hose not hooked up. If that is the case then the abs prob need to be blead its not a hard thing to do just time consuming.

as for your starting problem it has to be something so silly is your distrib 180deg out from when you put it back in(if you took it out)

if you have fuel and spark and its turning then it doesnt make since it should work

dkillahster

I did take the distributor out.

Now how would i know if the thing is 180 degrees out of time? or can i just take the distributor off and rotate it again? assuming that my car is put back on top dead center?

tommygun89hb

oh i just relised that you had a alarm and it was giving you trouble. sounds like that is the culprit on your old motor was there a box near the starter???

it may be in vallet mode or something of the sort

tommygun89hb

you should be able to unbolt the distrib and mark on end of the distrb cam key
flip it the other way like if you took it out and the key was left to right then flip it right to left

if you took it out and it was up and down flip it down to up.

and if that does not work then take it and flip it the way it was the oppisite of what you put it as.

sorry if that was confusing.

tommygun89hb

oh and i was wrong on the abs code you have a 2001 so that is the cpu code. that might go away when your car starts.

dkillahster

Your sir, have made my day. That was more confusing than seeing Jennifer Lopez being called down for awards during Oscar. HAHAHA

but yeah, that kinda confused me a bit. There any way i could physically call you and have a better understanding through the phone?

And there is no black box next to the starter. But there is how ever, a little on/off switch next to the viper system under my dash.

tommygun89hb

No sir i am on an oil rig in the middle of the north sea (being totaly serious)

Lets se if i could say this better
1. take the distrib out carfull not to disturb it to much
2. there is a cam key at the end of the distrib that goes into the cam
3. mark the left or right half of this key it doesnt matter
4.spin the key 180deg as in the key side that you colored would be on the opp side now
5. put the distrb back in with the key in the new place
6. see if it starts if not take the distrib back out.(now the key is going to be in a diffrent place now.)
7. flip it 180 and its back the way it was. no harm no foul

OK also so you have tested for spark 100 percent right.

dkillahster

yesser i have checked for spark 100% with a spark tester. all are firing.

lemme try this.

ken_464r

compression test? getting power to injectors? and i think the distributors only go in one way a key is slightly angled. correct me if wrong. and do you know if the engine ran before?

kchungb17a

The engine is probably sounding like that b/c you've washed the cylinder walls down with fuel with all that cranking. Put about 1-2 teaspoons of engine oil into each cylinder to help reestablish a ring seal. If it still doesn't start and you're sure you're getting spark at the right time and fuel at the right time and your cam timing is on then check the compression.

And yes, the distributor key is offset and can only be installed one way.

GL.