cap and rotor problem??
My engine was noisy as hell and I was told it was my valves. I had my buddy adjust them for me and when he was doing it he told me they werent that bad. He told me it was most likely the injectors that I was hearing. Well after that I replaced my cap and rotor and spark plugs on the B18A and was suprised by what I found. Even though my car ran fine my cap and rotor were FUCKED!!! It literally fell apart when I took it off. The little **** thing in the middle of the cap was all ground away on one side and part of the rotor was ground down to the metal inside the plastic. It looked like a knife blade they way it ground down. Well I put my new cap and rotor back on and started the car up. It ran fine but it still had the noise that I thought was my valves. My buddy starts poking his head around the motor and notices the noise is coming from my cap and rotor. I put my hand on it and you could feel it shaking. Is my distributor fucked up?? Could it be anything else?? What the hell destroyed my cap and rotor and is causing the loud noises??
first: age destroyed your cap and rotor. probably never been replaced, ever.
second: i have really noisy injectors also. however, i also have a tiny bit of valve noise even though my valves are adjusted perfectly. i do them every 3000-5000 miles b/c i get bored and want to kill 30-45 min. either your injectors are noisy, or your friend doesn't know how to adjust valves. quite possible.
second: i have really noisy injectors also. however, i also have a tiny bit of valve noise even though my valves are adjusted perfectly. i do them every 3000-5000 miles b/c i get bored and want to kill 30-45 min. either your injectors are noisy, or your friend doesn't know how to adjust valves. quite possible.
First of all, I'm confident my valves were adjusted properly. Ben Ogle was the one who did it for me. Not sure how well known he is on these boards but over on G2IC he's pretty well known. He knows his **** too.
Anyways, the noise was obviously coming from the cap and rotor. I put my ear right next to the valve cover while it was running and the noise wasnt coming from there. Then I put my ear next to the cap and rotor and it was loud as ****. I put my hand on it and it felt like it was spinning off balance or something. I admit I dont know much about these cars, but Ben does and he told me he never has seen anything like it.
Anyways, the noise was obviously coming from the cap and rotor. I put my ear right next to the valve cover while it was running and the noise wasnt coming from there. Then I put my ear next to the cap and rotor and it was loud as ****. I put my hand on it and it felt like it was spinning off balance or something. I admit I dont know much about these cars, but Ben does and he told me he never has seen anything like it.
if ben did your adjustment, i trust everything he says. ben knows his ****!
bad news is your distributor bearing might be going out. i'd get it checked immediately because if it seizes you'll be in a world of hurt.
bad news is your distributor bearing might be going out. i'd get it checked immediately because if it seizes you'll be in a world of hurt.
Yeah I havent driven the Teg' since I started it up that night and realized the noise wasnt my valves.
Can I just replace the bearing without replacing the whole distributor?? My problem is that I'm saving for a B18B/B20 so whenever I have to fix my stupid old B18A it takes money away from my new engine fund. Whats the cheapest alternative here??
Can I just replace the bearing without replacing the whole distributor?? My problem is that I'm saving for a B18B/B20 so whenever I have to fix my stupid old B18A it takes money away from my new engine fund. Whats the cheapest alternative here??
You can just replace the rear half (06301-PR4-A01 for a 92 Integra), it is less than $100 on acuraparts247.com. You would have to transfer over your existing ignition coil, heat sink, dist wire, leak cover, cap, rotor, screw and gasket. But it's a little cheaper than buying a whole new distributor from distributorking.com ($255) or something like that.
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The obd0 Integras (90-91) use a different one, I will find it for you.
Edit - they sell it a bit differently for the obd1 integras. It seems that the distributor housing is what you need. 30105-PR4-A03 , but its over $250 on both acuraparts247 and acuraautomotiveparts.org. Next best bet, go to the junkyard and try to find as many obd1 b18 distributors as you can (look for TD-23U printed on the top) and see if one of them works, or find a friend with an obd0 DA and swap distributors. See if the sound magically transfers to his car, then run.
Modified by purplegsr (Exospeed) at 10:49 PM 3/28/2005
Edit - they sell it a bit differently for the obd1 integras. It seems that the distributor housing is what you need. 30105-PR4-A03 , but its over $250 on both acuraparts247 and acuraautomotiveparts.org. Next best bet, go to the junkyard and try to find as many obd1 b18 distributors as you can (look for TD-23U printed on the top) and see if one of them works, or find a friend with an obd0 DA and swap distributors. See if the sound magically transfers to his car, then run.
Modified by purplegsr (Exospeed) at 10:49 PM 3/28/2005
Dammit!! I knew that was too good to be true. I think I found a guy on G2IC selling a OBD-0 one for 75$ though. So hopefully he still has it.
If not, I'll go with your plan. Swap distributors with a buddy to 'test' it to see if it works. Then say "I'm gonna go for a quick spin to make sure it works", and never come back.
If not, I'll go with your plan. Swap distributors with a buddy to 'test' it to see if it works. Then say "I'm gonna go for a quick spin to make sure it works", and never come back.
Good info. I did some searching on there too but somehow missed that thread.
Well I'm getting one shipped to me for 75$ that worked fine when it was taken off. So hopefully its still good and will last me atleast another 6 months. Plus, if it ever goes out on me I know my old one still works fine and then I can try swapping the bearings and seals out.
Well I'm getting one shipped to me for 75$ that worked fine when it was taken off. So hopefully its still good and will last me atleast another 6 months. Plus, if it ever goes out on me I know my old one still works fine and then I can try swapping the bearings and seals out.
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rayzian
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Dec 8, 2007 02:50 PM
06301pr4a01, 2004, 30105pr4a03, acura, cap, cheapest, crv, distributor, fell, honda, housing, noise, rotor, td, td23u




