boost...N/A...NO2
ok so ive searched for days and weeks HT on different turbo/all motor/ NO2 setups...till my eyes bleed and i start going in circles...
my problem...i have a 01 dc2 gsr motor is brand new top to bottom with about 300 miles all oem except for a few minor changes..i.e. thermo t belt water pump etc..
i know stock gsrs put about 170 down im looking to be closer to the 280- 300 mark...i dont drag just like the get up and go when i want/need..
my cars motor is stock except for I/H/E/ and few other bolt ons and id like to stay on a 3k budget if poss..
first i leaned towards a spray setup but then comes the bill of filling the bottle not to mention possible damage on motor....
then i looked into all motor but 250whp is hard enough let alone 300 being near impossible...
lastly i looked into boost... now i have never owned a boosted honda or any car for that matter so im limited to my knowladge on turbo setups...
i am however mechanicly inclined and have always just built all motor 200-250 whp hondas but im 27 years old 2 kids and this will be probably one of my last builds seeing as how i love this car and intend to keep it....
so my ? is should i go all motor/NO@/or BOOST and id like to stay as close to 3k as poss.. i can do a few hundred more if needed im looking for reliabilty first as its a DD and what route to go...if turboed id have to stay stock internals...due to $$$ or should i build motor and next year boost???
please im open to all options and please dont give me ish or the run around cause ive built hondas for a while and by far dumb when it comes to motrs....just new to FI and looing for input befor i blow my $$
my problem...i have a 01 dc2 gsr motor is brand new top to bottom with about 300 miles all oem except for a few minor changes..i.e. thermo t belt water pump etc..
i know stock gsrs put about 170 down im looking to be closer to the 280- 300 mark...i dont drag just like the get up and go when i want/need..
my cars motor is stock except for I/H/E/ and few other bolt ons and id like to stay on a 3k budget if poss..
first i leaned towards a spray setup but then comes the bill of filling the bottle not to mention possible damage on motor....
then i looked into all motor but 250whp is hard enough let alone 300 being near impossible...
lastly i looked into boost... now i have never owned a boosted honda or any car for that matter so im limited to my knowladge on turbo setups...
i am however mechanicly inclined and have always just built all motor 200-250 whp hondas but im 27 years old 2 kids and this will be probably one of my last builds seeing as how i love this car and intend to keep it....
so my ? is should i go all motor/NO@/or BOOST and id like to stay as close to 3k as poss.. i can do a few hundred more if needed im looking for reliabilty first as its a DD and what route to go...if turboed id have to stay stock internals...due to $$$ or should i build motor and next year boost???
please im open to all options and please dont give me ish or the run around cause ive built hondas for a while and by far dumb when it comes to motrs....just new to FI and looing for input befor i blow my $$
throw a decent turbo setup on it and hit 300-350whp on stock internals all day. that's the only way you'll hit your hp goal with that kind of budget.
go search the forced induction forum
go search the forced induction forum
As a DD I would stay all motor. Once you have built up the motor you can always go back and add a turbo or the non suggested wet kit. For any reliable turbo/no2 set up a stock engine is never reliable, sure it is a Honda/Acura but it's meant to drive the way it's set up. People have boosted cars on 8-10 lbs and never blown a motor but not everyone is so lucky. Just take the safe rout and go N/A and maybe add a turbo later, why build a house without a foundation?
First post on HT :p
First post on HT :p
As a DD I would stay all motor. Once you have built up the motor you can always go back and add a turbo or the non suggested wet kit. For any reliable turbo/no2 set up a stock engine is never reliable, sure it is a Honda/Acura but it's meant to drive the way it's set up. People have boosted cars on 8-10 lbs and never blown a motor but not everyone is so lucky. Just take the safe rout and go N/A and maybe add a turbo later, why build a house without a foundation?
First post on HT :p
First post on HT :p
Trending Topics
Decent rod and piston setup
New bearings/seals
Clutch capable of your final power goals
Tapped oil pan ( While you have it apart, just to make turbo installation easier later on.)
Keep the stock valvetrain
Most important of all find a..
GOOD MACHINIST/ENGINE BUILDER!
Its worth the piece of mind.
This is a must, I have seen so many kids/people try to do this them selves (me included) that simply dont have the experience or place to facilitate good motor assembly, and the result is more often than not is poor HP numbers, or declining numbers over a short period of time. Which leads to engine compression issues/ engine failure. What I am refering to is a clean room to assemble the motor, ring filing/ring gap offest, good torque wrench, cylinder protectors, ring compressor, torque sequence, piston orentation, remebering ALL the steps and doing them correctly.
Second most important, and a VERY close second, find a..
GOOD TUNER
Then pay the money to have it TUNED. Do NOT run it untuned, do NOT even run it on a basemap.
Then over the next year search daily for good turbo parts, do not go for the cheap route here, good parts plus a good tuner = good HP numbers on the dyno. Find either a good used KIT or piece one together.
Again get it tuned, preferably by the same person/place. Usually a discount is offered on retunes.
Last bit of advise. Consider E85 as your fuel of choice. Forget all the nay sayers, if you have it available to you switch to it. IT MAKES POWER, AND SAFELY.
I currently make 530 WHP on stock sleeves and run E85 its great. I made 470 on the exact same setup on 110 Race fuel.
Hope this helps.
-KidFrost
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 12,499
Likes: 2
From: Newark/Bay Area, CA., USA
NA will be reliable and fun to let it scream up to 9k RPM, but you're only going to be around 225 whp max if you do everything (pistons, cams, port n polish, tune, etc). If you're looking for big power, go turbo. Its cheaper, but you're going to be tuning a lot and requires a lot of maintenance since things go loose, blows off, blows up, etc. Cheapest route is nitrous... keep squeezing until you blow it up.
Do it in 2 steps.
Decent rod and piston setup
New bearings/seals
Clutch capable of your final power goals
Tapped oil pan ( While you have it apart, just to make turbo installation easier later on.)
Keep the stock valvetrain
Most important of all find a..
GOOD MACHINIST/ENGINE BUILDER!
Its worth the piece of mind.
This is a must, I have seen so many kids/people try to do this them selves (me included) that simply dont have the experience or place to facilitate good motor assembly, and the result is more often than not is poor HP numbers, or declining numbers over a short period of time. Which leads to engine compression issues/ engine failure. What I am refering to is a clean room to assemble the motor, ring filing/ring gap offest, good torque wrench, cylinder protectors, ring compressor, torque sequence, piston orentation, remebering ALL the steps and doing them correctly.
Second most important, and a VERY close second, find a..
GOOD TUNER
Then pay the money to have it TUNED. Do NOT run it untuned, do NOT even run it on a basemap.
Then over the next year search daily for good turbo parts, do not go for the cheap route here, good parts plus a good tuner = good HP numbers on the dyno. Find either a good used KIT or piece one together.
Again get it tuned, preferably by the same person/place. Usually a discount is offered on retunes.
Last bit of advise. Consider E85 as your fuel of choice. Forget all the nay sayers, if you have it available to you switch to it. IT MAKES POWER, AND SAFELY.
I currently make 530 WHP on stock sleeves and run E85 its great. I made 470 on the exact same setup on 110 Race fuel.
Hope this helps.
-KidFrost
Decent rod and piston setup
New bearings/seals
Clutch capable of your final power goals
Tapped oil pan ( While you have it apart, just to make turbo installation easier later on.)
Keep the stock valvetrain
Most important of all find a..
GOOD MACHINIST/ENGINE BUILDER!
Its worth the piece of mind.
This is a must, I have seen so many kids/people try to do this them selves (me included) that simply dont have the experience or place to facilitate good motor assembly, and the result is more often than not is poor HP numbers, or declining numbers over a short period of time. Which leads to engine compression issues/ engine failure. What I am refering to is a clean room to assemble the motor, ring filing/ring gap offest, good torque wrench, cylinder protectors, ring compressor, torque sequence, piston orentation, remebering ALL the steps and doing them correctly.
Second most important, and a VERY close second, find a..
GOOD TUNER
Then pay the money to have it TUNED. Do NOT run it untuned, do NOT even run it on a basemap.
Then over the next year search daily for good turbo parts, do not go for the cheap route here, good parts plus a good tuner = good HP numbers on the dyno. Find either a good used KIT or piece one together.
Again get it tuned, preferably by the same person/place. Usually a discount is offered on retunes.
Last bit of advise. Consider E85 as your fuel of choice. Forget all the nay sayers, if you have it available to you switch to it. IT MAKES POWER, AND SAFELY.
I currently make 530 WHP on stock sleeves and run E85 its great. I made 470 on the exact same setup on 110 Race fuel.
Hope this helps.
-KidFrost
For your power goals the GSR IM would be fine but they make it a bitch to route charge piping to. Plus you can find Victor X's laying around pretty easliy now and they make good mod range power. I would def go with one of those or atleast try to find an ITR one.
As for injectors it really depends on a few things. Budget/parts availability/ time you want to spend looking/ fuel pump(s) setup/ base fuel pressure. The biggest factor would be the fuel you are using. If you go the E85 route as I suggested you need bigger injectors since E85 uses about 30% more fuel. In a perfect world I would say just cut the bullshit and buy a set of ID 1000 injectors, with the right fuel pump(s)/pressure regulator setup ID1000's will take your clear to 600 HP if you wanted. They also work good at lower duty cycle and lower power numbers. But they are right around $450-500.
But if you want other options.
I would say a set of 880c or so would give you some nice wiggle room on E85, on 93, by the math, somewhere around 550cc should do it.
Just remember bigger is usually better when talking injector sizing. Its a pain in the *** (and walet) to have to buy another set of injectors b.c. the tuner says you are pushing the duty cycle of the ones you have.
-KidFrost
No problem.
For your power goals the GSR IM would be fine but they make it a bitch to route charge piping to. Plus you can find Victor X's laying around pretty easliy now and they make good mod range power. I would def go with one of those or atleast try to find an ITR one.
As for injectors it really depends on a few things. Budget/parts availability/ time you want to spend looking/ fuel pump(s) setup/ base fuel pressure. The biggest factor would be the fuel you are using. If you go the E85 route as I suggested you need bigger injectors since E85 uses about 30% more fuel. In a perfect world I would say just cut the bullshit and buy a set of ID 1000 injectors, with the right fuel pump(s)/pressure regulator setup ID1000's will take your clear to 600 HP if you wanted. They also work good at lower duty cycle and lower power numbers. But they are right around $450-500.
But if you want other options.
I would say a set of 880c or so would give you some nice wiggle room on E85, on 93, by the math, somewhere around 550cc should do it.
Just remember bigger is usually better when talking injector sizing. Its a pain in the *** (and walet) to have to buy another set of injectors b.c. the tuner says you are pushing the duty cycle of the ones you have.
-KidFrost
For your power goals the GSR IM would be fine but they make it a bitch to route charge piping to. Plus you can find Victor X's laying around pretty easliy now and they make good mod range power. I would def go with one of those or atleast try to find an ITR one.
As for injectors it really depends on a few things. Budget/parts availability/ time you want to spend looking/ fuel pump(s) setup/ base fuel pressure. The biggest factor would be the fuel you are using. If you go the E85 route as I suggested you need bigger injectors since E85 uses about 30% more fuel. In a perfect world I would say just cut the bullshit and buy a set of ID 1000 injectors, with the right fuel pump(s)/pressure regulator setup ID1000's will take your clear to 600 HP if you wanted. They also work good at lower duty cycle and lower power numbers. But they are right around $450-500.
But if you want other options.
I would say a set of 880c or so would give you some nice wiggle room on E85, on 93, by the math, somewhere around 550cc should do it.
Just remember bigger is usually better when talking injector sizing. Its a pain in the *** (and walet) to have to buy another set of injectors b.c. the tuner says you are pushing the duty cycle of the ones you have.
-KidFrost
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