Alright so first off: It's a 98 Integra LS/Vtec. I've got a slight oil leak and it appears to be coming from the distributor. Leads me to believe that the o-ring needs to be replace.
So, my question is, how would I go about doing this? There's a great How-To but it's for a d-series civic. I really doubt it's significantly different but I just wanted to make sure before I take off my distributor and screw something up and end up paying more than the 3 bucks I paid for this o-ring.
Thanks


Modified by lsvtecteg66 at 5:54 PM 10/29/2006

 

Mark your timing on your distributor so you don't get your timing out of wack and then take the three 12mm bolts loose and undo the distributor wiring harness and pull her off and Replace.

Clean around the area with brake parts cleaner and pay attention to see if the leak comes back, If so more than likely your going to haft to replace the Cam Seals.. Hopefully it's just the Dist O-Ring.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mark your timing on your distributor so you don't get your timing out of wack and then take the three 12mm bolts loose and undo the distributor wiring harness and pull her off and Replace.

Clean around the area with brake parts cleaner and pay attention to see if the leak comes back, If so more than likely your going to haft to replace the Cam Seals.. Hopefully it's just the Dist O-Ring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just what he said, only I would just retime the car after I pulled the dizzy out. Also, on that side of the engine, there are no cam seals, just the distributor o-ring and the cam plug behind the vtec solenoid. The other side has the cam seals that actually go on the cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just what he said, only I would just retime the car after I pulled the dizzy out. Also, on that side of the engine, there are no cam seals, just the distributor o-ring and the cam plug behind the vtec solenoid. The other side has the cam seals that actually go on the cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on if the oil leak is going down on to the Block, I'm just ''guessing'' as there are no pics and not that much info

 

Alright, first, thank you guys for the help.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Depends on if the oil leak is going down on to the Block, I'm just ''guessing'' as there are no pics and not that much info </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the leak is going down the block.







Anyways, I went to the dealership and picked up my o-ring. Then, came home and gathered the tools necessary. Followed instructions and made my mark so I didn't screw with my timing. I proceeded to unbolt the top bolt. As soon as I did this, the dizzy could slide right out (didn't need to undo the other two bolts..they weren't even there). So I'm thinking greattt. Take off the o-ring and replace it with the new one. Here is what I found. I'm going to guess I need a new distributor. Give me some feedback cause I have never seen this before, nor have I worked on an engine quite so indepth.






I'm missing my entire third wing to bolt to my motor, not to mention the hole in it. Could it be that the wrong distributor was used when putting the motor together and they took the shortcut and cut it off instead of buying the right one? Because it doesn't look like the right distributor in the first place. If this is so, then which distributor would I need? Also, I'm throwing a CEL after I started it up (idle's fine). Could that be because I took off the cap? All I did was unscrew it and screw it back on.. After all of this, I want to mention I'm not the guy that had the car built. I bought it like this. First day I came home with it and took a really good look and found a little oil So far, I consider myself not the best used-car buyer out there . I'm trying to get it back in perfect order and this is my top priority.
Thanks again,
Brett

 

The distributor is a LS distributor that has the 3rd leg cut off in order to fit it on the vtec head.....ie, half-assed bs. The leak could be the vtec solenoid or the cam seal to the right of it (on the edge of the head). That or it could be an old oil leak that has been fixed and its just residue, thus the first step that I always take is to clean the old stuff off and then try to narrow the leak down a bit. I love the broken pressure sensor on the vtec solenoid, thats classic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The distributor is a LS distributor that has the 3rd leg cut off in order to fit it on the vtec head.....ie, half-assed bs. The leak could be the vtec solenoid or the cam seal to the right of it (on the edge of the head). That or it could be an old oil leak that has been fixed and its just residue, thus the first step that I always take is to clean the old stuff off and then try to narrow the leak down a bit. I love the broken pressure sensor on the vtec solenoid, thats classic </TD></TR></TABLE>

So should I just get a GSR dizzy since the head is a B18C1, or which would fit? Also, what about the CEL that just came on? And yes, the cam seal apparently is leaking according to the mechanic I took it to a couple of weeks ago, but they freaked when they saw the new head and didn't touch anything. I'm going to clean everything and see if it holds up or if I still have a leak. If so, I'm going to replace the cam seal. And yeahh about the pressure sensor. That is the oil pressure sensor, right? And if it is, wouldn't I want that wired to my ECU in order to throw a CEL when pressure's low?
Thanks a ton

 

That sensor isn't used on most of the JDM cars, thus if you have a jdm ecu then you're probably ok and check the CEL (how-to in the sticky at the top of the forum).

 

That sucks man I've had so many problems with distributors. I have a 95 (obd-1) GSR distributor that has a bad ignitor, if you want you can have it, just pay shipping and paypal fee. The casing of it is perfect and I think you can just swap the ignitor from that one over and be good to go. The reason you can have it for free Is because the parts were swapped over by an acura dealership and i can 100% guaruntee that its only the ignitor that is wrong with it, its what was on my receipt though.

give me a PM if you are interested.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoePSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That sucks man I've had so many problems with distributors. I have a 95 (obd-1) GSR distributor that has a bad ignitor, if you want you can have it, just pay shipping and paypal fee. The casing of it is perfect and I think you can just swap the ignitor from that one over and be good to go. The reason you can have it for free Is because the parts were swapped over by an acura dealership and i can 100% guaruntee that its only the ignitor that is wrong with it, its what was on my receipt though.

give me a PM if you are interested.</TD></TR></TABLE>


BTW, the ignitors should switch right out and that is actually a hell of an offer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW, the ignitors should switch right out and that is actually a hell of an offer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

to op:
Seafoam ruined one of my distributors and I bought a new one from ebay and it was faulty too, so i just made a hybrid of the parts. I'm just not sure which is good and bad in it, but I kno there are some good parts in this distributor and the casing is in perfect condition so you should be able to swap the parts over. Just let me know if you want it, PM me you zipcode and ill get cost for you.

 

Thank you guys for the replies. I'll try to answer back to the best of my knowledge, of course with many questions.

First off, just checked my CEL. Reads Code 45. Fuel runs too lean/fuel runs too rich. How did taking off my dizzy cap screw up my a/f? and how would I fix that?

Second, I doubt it's a JDM ecu, but if it was USDM it'd be throwing a code from that sensor, right? The wiring was done pretty crappy.

And alright two last questions..sorry for asking so many.
Would that 95 distributor, with the replaced parts needed from my dizzy I have now, being OBD-I, work with my OBD-II car? I'm asking because I need to get emmissions tested in order to get plates. By the way, anyone know how to legalize this swap..or if it can be?

Thanks to all
Brett

 

Ok update.

Started the engine and just walked around it. I'm definitely burning fuel. You could just smell it/ see it coming from the exhaust.

And I checked the ecu..p75. the stock ecu.

Still have the same questions as before but maybe this can help answer them.

 

Sounds like you've got a hand full of issues....time to take everything apart and start from scratch...atleast thats the route I'd take.

 

I don't believe it will work for OBD-II but I'm honestly not 100% sure. Search on H-T if you can't find anything make a thread about it, If it does and you want it then send me a PM and i'll get it to you. Just let me know, PM is the best option to contact me.