zeroptzero

A while back I was doing an oil change on my 00 DC2 GS-R , the car was relatively new to me and I was under the car for the first time. While under there I remember thinking to myself that replacing the alternator would be a nightmare job if I ever had to do that in the future. It is located deep in the engine bay, with little access from below.

A few months later I found myself getting into an unexpected timing belt replacement project as the age of the belt was likely well past 7 years old, despite being a good bit away form the mileage requirement. While doing the timing belt work I thought that I might as well swap out the alternator while I was in there, it was the original 18 year old alternator with 190k kms on it. It was still working well, but I didn't want it to fail a few months down the road unexpectedly so I decided to do the alternator while the engine bay was opened up for the most part.

I've gone with a 90 amp remanufactured Denso alternator. When I was buying the part there was a choice between a 70 amp and 90 amp part. I figured a 90 amp was the better way to go and it was a Denso unit instead of a different name that I did not recognize. I had a couple spare S2000 alternators sitting around my place which were 105 amp units that looked like they would fit (with a pulley swap), but I didn't want to risk using them in case they might have caused issues later down the road.

I was able to get the factory alternator removed from the top of the engine bay, and the new alternator dropped in place. I seen a few swaps that removed the driveshafts and brake master cylinder, but I wanted to avoid that as I just installed a new big brake kit and I had no desire to mess that up. So I found that it is possible to do the swap from above the engine bay, you do have to move a few parts out of the way but it isn't too bad, and can't be nearly as bad as removing axles or the master cylinder. Doing it from above the engine bay is definitely doable. I'll post a pic when I can, unfortunately it is cold as hell in my garage this morning and I won't be dong much more work this weekend due to the cold temps.

Looking at the shop manual specs I was surprised to find a difference between the Type R alternator and the other models. The Type R uses an 85 amp alternator vs. 90 amps for the other engines. I wonder why they did that ? , perhaps due to the extra revs that it runs, I always thought the higher amps the better. Anyhow, I just wanted to post up my experience. FYI in case anyone is needing to replace their alternator.

wunfstgsr

Thanks for sharing, I assume you have a stock GSR intake manifold, I don't think that it would be possible if it had a1 B16 or ITR style manifold could be wrong but I have a aftermarket Ultra street manifold and that would deff not happen with that manifold on. And yea pulling the half shaft and axles sucks big *****! I have to replace mines soon as well.

Caoboy

Removing the halfshaft is the best way to do it, you have tons of space under there with the shaft out of the way.

zeroptzero

yes I still have the factory GSR manifold, the GSR manifold is a behemoth though I would have thought the aftermarket manifolds would provide more clearance, but I could be wrong. I had a good bit of clearance once some of the surrounding clips and hoses were moved, very easy stuff though compared to moving shafts and axles. Who would have thought replacing an alternator on a Honda would be complicated, usually it is an easy swap on many Honda models.

NVturbo

I'm sure at the factory, the alternator was mounted onto the motor before the axles. Driver side axle will likely need to be removed to gain more room for removal/install.

tony_2018

Been a while but I do recall pulling the alternator up the top. That rebuilt from Acura still cranking so I never had to replace it again. Been a good 10 yrs now.

NVturbo

the spacing near the driver side shock tower may be a problem. On my Del Sol, I had to remove it and take it out from the bottom.

zeroptzero

access beside the driver side shock tower was just enough to allow the alternator to be lifted up , the upper alternator bracket was removed, some wiring connectors around the shock tower were moved to provide access and it cleared fine.

tony_2018

It was tight, I think the fuel rail had to be moved out too, def been a while but thank god it has cuz I am in no mood to be messing with it right now. lil sis and her inexperience of maintaining a car.....