You need to pop the left front wheel off, and crank the motor manually, turning the cams 90 degrees for each cylinder adjustment, correct? I was thinking about just bumpin' the motor with the starter, but is the manual way the right way? and after I turn it over manually, will I have to retorque the bolt on the crank? thanks.

 

A few pointers: Don't take your wheel off, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Make sure the engine has completely cooled down. Turning the crank pully will rotate the motor, it wont loosen that bolt.

 

Yes, it's very important to do it while the motor is completely COLD. Best to leave car over night before doing it.

 

Yeah, good luck bumping the cams over exactly 90 degrees with the starter, just do it manually. If your gonna do something, do it right.

 

take out your spark plugs to make it a little easier...

and you can also then take a long wooden dowel (or similar) and visually see when the piston reaches TDC

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take out your spark plugs to make it a little easier...

and you can also then take a long wooden dowel (or similar) and visually see when the piston reaches TDC</TD></TR></TABLE>

It will be alot easier with the plugs out. I wouldnt even attempt it with the plugs still in.

 

To make it easier, what you can do is remove the spark plugs and stick in a long 18 inch stick so it touches the piston head for each cylinder.

Then start at TDC Piston #1. (Align the mark on the valve cover timing belt cover with the white mark on the pulley). And also the arrow on the cam gears should be facing each other. Adjust #1's Intake and exhaust valves.

Then crank it 90 degrees counter clockwise until #3 is at the top (The stick is at the apex position) and the arrows on the left cam gear should be pointing up and the one on the right should be pointing down. Adjust #3.

Crank it another 90 degrees coutner clockwise, #4 should be at the topmost and the left arrow will point left, right arrow will point right. Adjust #4.

Crank it another 90 degrees coutnerclockwise, #2 should be up with the left arrow pointing down and right arrow pointing up. Adjust #2

Done.

And you don't need to "retorque" the crank bolt because that sucker is torqued 120 ft-lbs+ or so and you're only using like maybe 20 ft-lb to turn the motor


Modified by BG Boost at 9:24 PM 11/29/2003

 

ummmm its mass easy to bump the motor 90 degrees. Just pull the ECU fuse before. That way gas wont squirt but the starter will still run. Just one " crank will spin them around perfectly for each adjustment. you dont have to be on TDC. Just on the base circle. The only thing that sucks about this is you still have to press the clutch and if you are dirty well you know.

 

I thought cam gear arrows should be pointing straight up to adjust valves for piston #1? then 90 degree's more counter clockwise for #3, then 4, then 2? Ugh.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deepgreengsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ummmm its mass easy to bump the motor 90 degrees. Just pull the ECU fuse before. That way gas wont squirt but the starter will still run. Just one " crank will spin them around perfectly for each adjustment. you dont have to be on TDC. Just on the base circle. The only thing that sucks about this is you still have to press the clutch and if you are dirty well you know. </TD></TR></TABLE>

why go through this?
its so easy doing it by hand, and its very precise.
to the thread creator, http://www.team-integra.net has a write up of this in the article section

 

Thought this may clear things up:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

 

You don't have to be EXACTLY at TDC for each cylinder, but all the valves must be closed on the compression stroke when adjusting the valve lash (so anywhere in the area of TDC, a little before or after is fine as long as the cam lobes are not touching the rocker arms).

As for the arrows on the cams, what BG Boost posted is not correct, it should be:

UP arrows BOTH point up for #1, forward for #3, down for #4, and back (back of car) for #2.

 

[QUOTE=PatrickGSR94]You don't have to be EXACTLY at TDC for each cylinder, but all the valves must be closed on the compression stroke when adjusting the valve lash (so anywhere in the area of TDC, a little before or after is fine as long as the cam lobes are not touching the rocker arms).

correct doesnt have to be exact. just as long as the cam lobe isnt touching the rocker. if it touches the rocker, you will have a loud tick

 

Got the valves done, stopped ticking...next time I'll remember 3rd to 4th is straight back, not back and to the left(2nd) My motor screamed pretty load, luckily I didn't bent any valves, and all the rockers were intact. only 1 rocker was loose, and it was the first one for cylinder #3 on the intake side...thanks all