Ok so i have a B18C1 in my teg and it has Very low Comp on #2 and #3 spark plugs are oil fowled.
now is there any thing common with any of the B series that will cause this.
All I can think of is broken rings as I still have good comp on the other two.
compression test was as fallows
#1 = 185 PSI
#2 = 30 PSI
#3 = 35 PSI
#4 = 195 PSI
Now there is alot of oil in #2 and #3 so i'm wandering of it's a broken pistons

I know the head gasket is good as i'm not getting and coolant in the oil and i'm not loosing any eather also the oil is still oil and not a milk shake.

i'm gooing to pull the head soon and i have a Full gasket set for the motor and a set
of rings and bearings for it i just wanted to know if i should start looking for new pistons

 

Do a leak down test, then you will know what caused it. I say bad valve seats.

 

try a wet compression test. see if it yields higher numbers.
but because the cylinders are adjacent, i'd say a warped/cracked head is a likely cause. it is not definitive that a breached head gasket will cause a loss of coolant or a mix of coolant and oil. although honda heads aren't particularly synonymous with cracking, it is possible. could be a crack between the 2 combustion chambers.

 

and if the piston(s) were cracked, you'd likely have a dead hole. also, it probably wouldn't happen to 2 of them at the same time

 

ok well a wet test is point less as there is a definat sign of oil with the plugs out.
also putting a plug in #2 and the tester in #3 didn't yeld any higher of a reading.

and yes i know with the valve timing just putting in a plug wont tell if the heads craked or warped.
but 90% of the time when i was working if it was a cracked head there would be a +5~15 lb of compression from the added resistance.
i'll do a vac test monday and hopfully get the head off at the same time and i'll update what i find.

im willing to spend some money getting it back on the road but a Neew Head or block and im done with it. i'll rebiuld a head but if it's cracked to hell with it.

 

yea, i guess a wet test is pointless. i'm certain it'll be an issue with the head though, as the affected cylinders are adjacent. although the deck could also be warped. if you wanna know if it's cracked, you'll need to pull it off and have it fluxed, or whatever method the shop prefers. either way, the heads gonna need to come off to check for trueness of the deck and head. also for cracks

 

tbh though, it's more likely just warped. at either mating surface

 

well i'm hopping it's just warped but the local shop told me for $75 if all i need is the head
shaved and a valve job i can use the shop and he will teach me how to use the tools
for all the testing and such so i can do all my own work

 

eather way i think i'm going to put in new rings i have a Full gasket kit for the motor so i'm
just goin to drop the oil pan and push out the piston and rering them.
also will give me a chance to see how the bearings look on the rods and if there bad i'll pull
the block out and do the mains as well.
i'm not looking to race the thing just need a DD for me and my kids.

 

tbh, i doubt i'd go that far even. i'd probably just pull the head, have it checked for cracks, pressure test, if good, resurface and deck the block
up to you if wanna start pullin the block apart. if you do, be sure to check the cylinders for out of round too. may as well give them a hone as well.

 

if i pull the pistons it getting honed

 

I'm guessing you still haven't done a leak-down test?

 

ok so the heads off and looks like burnt valves.



so $275 and the Machine shop and ill be back together.

i have also decided to do the rings sence im already here and i have the parts.

 

Is that a piece missing from your valve?

 

yes it is.

thay my friend is what you call a Burnt valve

most likely started as a small little leaking spot but as the engine runs it's like taking a blow tourch to them every time the cylender fires.

 

that's also why it's a good idea to periodically check your valve lash. as it is a major contributor to burnt exhaust valves
pretty surprised you were able to get any compression out of those cylinders.
how did the piston heads look? any of that debris pinging around in there? cylinders look unscathed?

 

The rest looks fine but i'm going to do the rings and rod bearings with it all torn down as far as it is.

Keep in mind the only time all the valves are closed at the same time is the compression stroke so
any melted slag from the valves would have been blowen into the exhast manifold

 

Ok so i haven't posted back for a little bit so here it is.

got the head back and all the main bearings installed and every thing back together.
i'll post Pix of the parts i pulled out later but lets just say it looked like the motor was biuld with used parts from god knows where.







I even took the time to saolder in connectors for the O2, Dissy and Vtec that the last ******* had butt connected directly to the harnnes.


When i was waiting for the head to get done and the parts to come in the mail i worked on repairing the interior.






All i have left to do is finish the rewirering of the passenger head light find some H4H bulbs raise the car up about 2"~ 2 1/2" and figure out where the hell the water in the trunk is coming from and i'm set.

 

Hey did you ever get this running.