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I was looking in "misc" in the parameters window. The AC cutoff? cutoff at 5000 rpm and 35% throttle? I guess I can change that pretty much anywhere I want?
I was thinking more like 6800 and 75%. It's not a competition car, but the two numbers at the left, I get close to nearly every time I drive. Not always, but I don't drive like granny. Generally, if I really want to accelerate, I turn off the AC myself....now that I think about it.
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I was looking in "misc" in the parameters window. The AC cutoff? cutoff at 5000 rpm and 35% throttle? I guess I can change that pretty much anywhere I want?
I was thinking more like 6800 and 75%. It's not a competition car, but the two numbers at the left, I get close to nearly every time I drive. Not always, but I don't drive like granny. Generally, if I really want to accelerate, I turn off the AC myself....now that I think about it.
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I don't think my iacv is working like it should....probably have to get a new one. 300 something from Acura, wow. Next month maybe. As far as my research shows, the aftermarket ones aren't very good.
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It's close, but if you can't get the idle down to 750, it's wrong. I've adjusted it down to about 1000rpms. That's as close as I've gotten, but the weather has prevented me from working on it...much. Sometimes the idle will run lower, down to 850, but then it goes back to 1000. I've got the ecu set at 780. I'm lowering the idle screw a little bit at a time. I already discovered if you lower the idle screw too much, when you let off the throttle it'll drop real low.....and then it goes back up to 1000.
This is why I think the iacv isn't working properly.
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It's close, but if you can't get the idle down to 750, it's wrong. I've adjusted it down to about 1000rpms. That's as close as I've gotten, but the weather has prevented me from working on it...much. Sometimes the idle will run lower, down to 850, but then it goes back to 1000. I've got the ecu set at 780. I'm lowering the idle screw a little bit at a time. I already discovered if you lower the idle screw too much, when you let off the throttle it'll drop real low.....and then it goes back up to 1000.
This is why I think the iacv isn't working properly.
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Im pretty sure its working.
You can adjust the IACV through the Hondata I even shared a link where I showed someone how to do it! If your IACV was not working the idle will not change when you move the dial on the IACV duty through Smanager its very simple! have you tried that yet? where is the dial set at? normal? low? high? post a pic or something, then set the ignition timing or it will never run correct.
You can adjust the IACV through the Hondata I even shared a link where I showed someone how to do it! ect.
The how to you linked, the guy had no idle. Mine is the opposite, too high...so I'd go lower on the duty cycle, but which direction on the percent? I don't know what those adjustments do.
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Timing an issue? Ha....now I think it's a problem.
Below is the HB on my A1 engine. 30 years old, the marks are hard to see, but the red one is pretty clear.
In the next photo, you see both the A1 and 18C HBs lined up. I had to purchase another A1 pulley to put on the 18C and I marked (yellow marks bellow) as shown in the photo.
The cuts in the newer A1 HB were easier to see and feel, so I can't say they're exactly like this one, but close. I put a mark equal in distance as the 2 degree marks on either side of the red mark....thinking the A1 is marked at 10 BTDC and the 18C is 16 BTDC. I had to use the A1 HB to keep my original power steering.
My marks don't look correct at all. The engine rotates counter-clockwise to the marks going left should be more advanced. Again, my marks don't look right at all.
I think I'm going to have to take the valve cover off, line up the cam marks....then check the HB marks.
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The how to you linked, the guy had no idle. Mine is the opposite, too high...so I'd go lower on the duty cycle, but which direction on the percent? I don't know what those adjustments do.
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Your scaring me man!!
so you didn't read the thread and look at the pics I shared on setting the IACV?...
If your IACV is too high it will look like this on the dial,
Lower it to normal at least and see how it idles, this is where it should be but depending on setups it has to change, your stock so stay near normal,
Then click the Arrow to save the setting,
Originally Posted by 1990IntegraLS
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I have to pick up and rotate my A1 so I can compare the two HBs. The one that came off the b18c to the one on the b18a1.
I purchased another HB for the A1, to put on my new engine so I could use my 1990 power steering.
I marked it where I thought 16 degrees btdc would be, but I need to verify that.
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The crank pulleys vary in size, the LS non vtec are usually bigger than the vtec crank pulleys. If you switch you usually have to get different size belts.
Setting the timing is very easy im not sure why your having such a hard time, you already confirmed your mechanical timing so grab a red marker and put some red back on the center line and grab a gun and time it! Jump the ECU first !
I literally just did this 1 hour ago to my Honda Civic I just put a new engine in, took me 10 mins maybe less! timing was way off now she runs better has better MPG and idles better.
I've never downloaded the current calibration... didn't know you could do that, asked that question on hodata forum. No answer. Saw that in you post yesterday. My garage is averaging 45 degrees at 2 in the afternoon....and the cloud cover means I barely have any more power than to charge my large bank of house batteries. Not much more.
This is a big test of patience for me and its going slowly.
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I've dropped the iacv down 5 clicks....half way between normal and zero. So the now the timing is dead on at 840. The idle screw is not far from closed and the ignition is near 2/3s fully advanced. This does not seem typical. To have to go this far to get 840 rpms idle? I may have to drop the iacv more. I've felt there's another issue I'm missing.
The AF in the gauge display goes in the red every so often....just for a split second. I have no idea what that means, but I thought I'd mention that.
Added: The AF is running up and down from 70 to 80. Each time it hits 70, it goes red (not every time), but up and down...up and down all the time. I recorded it when the iacv was at three clicks down....didn't at 5 clicks down.
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I've dropped the iacv down 5 clicks....half way between normal and zero. So the now the timing is dead on at 840. The idle screw is not far from closed and the ignition is near 2/3s fully advanced. This does not seem typical. To have to go this far to get 840 rpms idle? I may have to drop the iacv more. I've felt there's another issue I'm missing.
The AF in the gauge display goes in the red every so often....just for a split second. I have no idea what that means, but I thought I'd mention that.
Added: The AF is running up and down from 70 to 80. Each time it hits 70, it goes red (not every time), but up and down...up and down all the time. I recorded it when the iacv was at three clicks down....didn't at 5 clicks down.
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Do not pay attention to AF that is Air Fuel ratio and you don't have a wise band wired to the ECU to display the air fuel ratio until then all you will see is a irrelevant value. You must install a wide band gauge and wire the gauge to the ecu harness and tapp into the ELD input.
Originally Posted by 1990IntegraLS
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What if my injectors are 270 instead of 240?
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Then you must find out the dead times for those size injectors and input them and save them other wise you will not be operating the ending correctly, The hondata has the dead times for many popular size injectors saved in the vault for you to pick, chances are you can click 270 cc if not then you need to find out what injectors you have and ask the manufacture for the dead times.
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I had my Ranger in my main garage overnight with the rear wheels off. When I finished that today, I started the DA to move it back from my small garage to the bigger one.
... still only 45 degrees at 2pm, but the idle dropped down within a few seconds and a bit longer to 850. I haven't been driving it....for lots of reasons.
When I recorded a startup data log for 11 minutes, I added 2 gauges. ING and INJ. Surprising how high the ECU advances the timing, but after warming up it confirms the timing at 15 to 17....it jumps around, a little.
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Drove my car the 25 miles to the grocery store and back today.
Best so far. The idle does come down to about 780 to 800 rpms, but takes a little while...other wise it goes down just under 1000....15-20 seconds later 800. One guy one the hondata forum suggests checking the TB for leaks. I will, but cleaned it well and replaced all gaskets and O-rings in the manifold.
It is getting better, but I'm not there yet. I think this ECU is adjusting....in the right direction, but the duty cycle for the iacv is set quite low.
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Drove my car the 25 miles to the grocery store and back today.
Best so far. The idle does come down to about 780 to 800 rpms, but takes a little while...other wise it goes down just under 1000....15-20 seconds later 800. One guy one the hondata forum suggests checking the TB for leaks. I will, but cleaned it well and replaced all gaskets and O-rings in the manifold.
It is getting better, but I'm not there yet. I think this ECU is adjusting....in the right direction, but the duty cycle for the iacv is set quite low.
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Your Idle is fine you do not have any vacuum leaks.
Keep it on Normal. The Idle will still come down after the engine warms up regardless of where the duty is, there is IACV corrections the ECU will use to compensate for different conditions. Your idle should be around 850 I have mine at 950 but again its a fully built engine using 1,000 cc injectors. Read this from Hondata,
1. Warm up the engine.
2. Set the idle speed to 850 rpm and move the duty cycle adjustment to the middle.
3. Unplug the idle valve.
4. Adjust the bypass screw until the engine runs at 450 rpm. If you can not reduce the idle to 450 rpm, then you have an air leak. Fix this before proceeding. If the engine will not run with the idle valve disconnected then your bypass port is clogged. Fix this before proceeding.
5. Plug the idle valve back in.
6. Clear the idle valve error. You should now get a smooth idle at 850 rpm.
7. Increase the engine speed to 2500 - 3000 rpm and abruptly let off the throttle. If the engine speed dips below 850 rpm, move the duty cycle slider to the right. If the engine speed hangs above 850rpm for some time, move the duty cycle slider to left.
Some engines prefer 900 or 950 rpm idle speed.
Read this just try setting Minimal idle speed to 850 and save it if its not already set to 850,
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I tried the standard idle procedure 3 times. Twice with the jdm ecu, and once with the us hondata ecu. Similar results. When I got the engine down close to 450, it died every time....the idle screw basically closed to get it that low. Plug the iacv back in and 1500 idle. The only thing that brought down the idle was lowering the duty cycle in the hondata settings.
It idles nicely at 800. It's not weak there. I chirped it off the line accidentally. I was being a little aggressive, but no hesitation or loss of power, just crankin' at whatever throttle I wanted to use.
Added: I agree tho, I need to find out more about the injectors. I still think there's something else I haven't found...the injectors, a vacuum line I've got wrong....I'll find it eventually. For now it's driving pretty well.
I am still open to suggestions, and appreciate your advice.
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Last edited by 1990IntegraLS; 01-23-2020 at 06:20 PM.
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I chirped off the line because I'm not used to the LSD trans. It's much better at grabbing the pavement than the s1.
However, I'm still not pleased with the gear ratio. I prefer crusing easily at 90 then getting there quickly. In Texas, with the 80 mph speed limits, you need lower rpms to run at that speed +, for several hundred miles.
In my many trips across the state, I've seen dark green cars with police in black on the side that you can't see unless the light reflects on it the right way. They sometimes travel at 90-95, and there's usually 5-6 cars including me, trailing behind them. They don't seem to mind as long as your not driving stupid or acting reckless. 2-3 hundred miles that way. My A1 with s1 had no problem doing that.
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01-16-2020, 12:37 PM
Re: '90 Integra GSR
