1990IntegraLS

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When I see the idle screw coated with a material to keep it from moving....it's like a note from the manufacturer saying, "do NOT mess with this setting". After considering my engine, I'm concluding that maybe because of my changes to the intake, exhaust and injectors, the oem idle setting is null and void.

What may be happening is the iacv and the ecu, after warming up is trying to bring the idle down but my non-oem add-ons are preventing that.

Just a theory...at the moment.
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1990IntegraLS

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I made a special screwdriver to fit the idle screw.....nearly closing does almost nothing. You can raise the idle a couple hundred opening it.

I can look for a vacuum leak, wait for the 2nd obd1 dizzy.....could be still some air in the cooling system, but I've bled the system 8 times....maybe the hondata will help me figure out what's wrong. Idling at 14-1500.
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Caoboy

That’s not how it works



car has to be in diagnostic mode with the iacv unplugged and ignition timing already verified and then you adjust the idle screw at the throttle body.

Follow the Factory Service Manual (a quick google search and you can download a copy) and you’ll be good to go.

1990IntegraLS

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Thanks for the info. Every bit helps. I have the original service manual for my '90 and have downloaded the one for the'... I think, 94-2000. You have to know ahead, what to search for. I'll look for that.
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1990IntegraLS

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Oh, the timing jumper? I had that on...or closed. I was checking/adjusting the timng at the same time.

In the Rywire harness, it has an extra set of wires to put your trouble codes to flash thru your engine light...by turning on a toggle. As I installed that, marked "C", I also ran a pair of wires to the timing jumper to a toggle marked "T".

I've known on my '90 you have close that jumper to keep the ecu from adjusting the timing...so that you can. Didn't know it put the ecu into diagnostic mode.

I had the jumper closed, adjusting both timing and the idle screw.

Added:. I will tho...check it again to make sure I do it in the correct sequence...as indicated in the manual.
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Caoboy

Did you even correctly time the engine? Last I read you weren't using the timing marks on the crankshaft.

Did you have the iacv unplugged while adjusting the idle?

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1990IntegraLS

Yes, I found and marked the HB about a week ago. No I didn't have the iacv unplugged. That's an important bit of info I didn't have.

Thanks

....found the marks on the HB and painted them. One morning before I started the b18c, the temp outside went from 38 to 68 in 2hrs. My harmonic balancer rusted enough so I couldn't see the timing marks. Every time I get the idle a bit lower, I adjust the timing.
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1990IntegraLS

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Got my next obd1 dizzy. I'll do both. ....see if code 9 goes away.
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1990IntegraLS

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I installed the 3rd dizzy today. No code 9. It was the priority, but I'll go thru the idle procedure next. Maybe tomorrow.
Why did it take 3 different distributors?

Initially, the idle went down to 1350 and I set the timing again, but after driving it around my 6 mile block the idle was back up to 1500 by the time I got back.
....next, to the idle procedure.
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1990IntegraLS

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Code 9 came back. I'm doubtful the ecu would have an intermittent failure like this. Anything is possible, it seems more likely my harness has an intermittent short. That would really be a drag. I can ohm test between all the wire that run in that part of the harness, but only from the connector end going into the ecu...... I'd rather not buy another harness. It could be any of them between the dizzy and the ecu.

Otherwise the engine runs great, besides idling high, which I'll work on. I wanted to solve code 9 first.
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1990IntegraLS

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I talked to hondata today....it wasn't encouraging. ...told me the s300 is for highly modified engines.

I've talked to a number of companies that are in this industry of building and tuning these cars. No one has any idea of why my car can run very well and have a code 9.

...I was also asking him if the s300 over rides the OEM base maps...he had no answer. I'm wondering now, if I'm trowing my money away.
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Caoboy

Since you’ve tried multiple distributors, the only other option is the ecu is faulty (swap known good ecu to test) or there is a problem with the CYP sensor wiring, which would mean you need to do some ohm testing.

1990IntegraLS

Did that a week ago. The wires that go to that sensor tested at 356 all the way down to the ecu connector.

If it's intermittent, I'll never find it.

1990IntegraLS

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My list, to do before the p72 hondata gets here....

Wanna unplug the iacv to work on the idle. I can get it unplugged from underneath, but I'm not at all sure if I can get it plugged back in. When I cleaned the iacv, I plugged it back in from above....before installing it on the manifold.

I'm going to unplug the obd0 dizzy connectors and spray them with dielectric terminal cleaner and look for loose or corroded pins.
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tony_2018

Hey whats been going,,oh,,,,oh,,,,

1990IntegraLS

This morning with the iacv disconnected, I can easily idle at 760. The timing was spot on.

I'm betting if I reconnect it, the idle will be back up to 1500.

I cleaned it real well. Does that mean I need a new one, or should I try and take it apart. It takes a minute or two to warm up and hold the idle. I may drive it with the iacv disconnected just to see how much nicer it drives.....and the whole car doesn't buzz idling at 760.
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1990IntegraLS

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Yep, iacv plugged back in, 1450-1500rpm idle.

The only thing else I can think of to effect the idle is the tps, tho I'm not sure it does.
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1990IntegraLS

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I started looking at what I'd have to do to test the tps. Everything has to be plugged in to test the voltage. I can pull the plug off the sensor and pull it out with just enough slack to get to it, but I'd have to either crunch on some alligator clips or strip the wires enough to put leads on them. I found the wires where they go into the ecu, but again very difficult to test with them plugged into the ecu for "key on" volt testing. At the moment, I'm not prepared to do either. I have other things that are higher priority.

I did remove the obd0 dizzy connectors and sprayed them with terminal cleaner....a couple times.

At the moment, the only code I've got is 20, the ELD, which of course my car doesn't have. I don't know if it'll stay that way. I didn't clear the codes. I just started it back up after letting the terminals dry. No code 9, no code 14.

I'm thinking the CYP code 9, it due to an old dirty connector and no more.
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tony_2018

take the plug out, stick in or use alligator crimps ( think thats what its called) wires that extend out to where you can reach it.

You can also test the signal at the ecu but if you're checking logic ground and 5v that will have to be done at the ecu for accuracy.

1990IntegraLS

Using alligator clips to reach the wire tears up the insulation and can also cut wire strands. I won't do it unless I'm sure I need to. After cleaning the obd0 dizzy connectors and the code 9 going away as a result, it seems to run and idle as it should. I had other things to do, so I haven't driven it to make sure, but it seemed to.
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wunfstgsr

If You cant find a Stock GSR base map you can send it to many people who can burn a stock GSR base map for you on the Hondata. You can even have them add fail safe features. Also I would invest in a AFR gauge, I like my Innovate MTX-L gauge! wire it up to display the AFR on the laptop so that you can do live data logs and with the AFR displayed you can fine tune the engine if ever needed and or send the recording and have a tuner look it over and adjust anything needed! and yes all this can still be beneficial to a other wise stock engine! you will get used to looking at the gauge and you will automatically know something is wrong if you see a rich or lean condition while driving! sometimes you think the engine feels good but having the AFR hooked up you can see if the engine is running richer or leaner than usual and give you a heads up before things get worse like having a injector go out!

Setting or checking the TPS is super easy using the Hondata.

I have the Hondata connected to my laptop and have all my gauges and display visible with live data recording every time I drive the car! best insurance you can have in case things start to go bonkers.

Who did you purchase the ECU and Hondata from?

Talk to http://www.phearable.net/ for a custom base map or a stock GSR map to run with any modifications you have.

1990IntegraLS

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Purchased from swap shop racing. They had they the best price I could find...and have been around for a quite a while.
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wunfstgsr

And they couldn't even put a stock GSR base map in the ECU? Either way you should be able to open up Smanager and find a stock GSR base map in the vault I know I seen one before.

1990IntegraLS

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I didn't ask them...and hondata wouldn't answer my question about base maps either. Their instruction manual mentions searching the "vault"...but that's about it. You could download an idiots map and harm your car....

I was under the impression hondata came with stock maps that you modified. Poor assumption on my part.

My budget for this project has ended.
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wunfstgsr

Hondata sucks with customer service. No map on the Hondata will harm your engine if all parameters are the same. Its not really intended to be a FULLY safe tune because they are meant to let you drive the car for a short period until you can fully tune it by a tuner. Its not recommended to "race" the car after using a base map of any but depending on who does the base map you can still rev it up and have fun for the most part. I have a fully modified Type R setup using a huge Pro Charger supercharger and guess what? it runs super great on just the custom base map created by Pheriable! my AFR is always safe so I go into boost with no problem as long as I have my AFR gauge I don't worry plus a cruise in it more than drive it in boost or even Vtec. Part throttle is also great! drives just like a stock car 100% even on idle with ID 1,000 cc injectors!

Once you download Smanager onto your laptop you go into the Vault files and search for a setup that matches you, in your case anything close to a stock GSR, Or send the ECU to have a stock GSR base map created for you. Doesn't cost more than $100 I think but its worth a shot if you cant find a stock map in the vault.