DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!!
10-10-2004, 09:09 PM
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DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!!
Be sure and view my previous thread... here
Well, I finally got off my *** and did it. It took me a while, but it wasn't all that hard.
Tools needed:
1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive ratchets
10mm & 12mm sockets (deep and regular)
assorted extensions
universal joint (may not be needed)
12mm wrench
screwdrivers (phillips and flathead)
pliers
drill and bits
8mm x 1.25 tap
wire stripper
electrical tape
Parts/materials needed:
D16Y8 intake manifold (manual or auto, but I used an auto)
D16Z6 intake and throttle body gaskets
D16Y8 injector seals
12" of 5/32" (4mm) ID vacuum tubing
Y8 fuel rail (although I used a Z6 rail)
Ok, so let's get started. Here's what mine looked like when I started.
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal (duh)
2. Disconnect the intake
3. Disconnect the throttle cable
4. Drain the coolant by removing the plug at the base of the radiator, and be sure to remove the radiator cap to make it go a little faster
5. Remove the throttle body, there's 2 bolts and two nuts, all 12mm. Also, remove the two coolant lines just below the TB, where the manifold meets the head. Remove the IACV held on by two 12mm bolts and the other sensor (not sure what it's called) held by two phillips screws, and unclip the sensor on the bottom of the manifold.
6. Remove the injector clips from the injectors. Use a small flathead screwdriver, but be careful not to lose the clips. Remove the two 10mm nuts to release the injector harness. Place a rag under the fuel filter and then remove the hose that goes to the fuel rail, but first be sure to release fuel pressure by removing the gas cap. Then remove the three 10mm nuts holding the fuel rail down, the vacuum line running from the fpr to the manifold, and remove the rail and injectors. Be careful not to touch the tips of the injectors.
7. Remove the two 12mm bolts from the brace on the underside if the intake manifold. If you're lucky, you can do this without getting under the car, but it's a tight fit.
8. Remove the seven 12mm nuts holding the manifold to the cylinder head. I had to get a universal joint to get to the middle nut on the underside.
9. Slide the manifold off of the studs and lift it up enough to remove the hose connected to the oil cooler, then totally remove the manifold.
10. Now let's swap stuff over from the Z6 mani to the Y8 mani. When looking at the two manifold, you'll notice that there are several things different about them. For one, the TB studs are in opposite locations. This shouldn't matter, although I switched them around anyway.
11. Go ahead and mount the injectors and fuel rail on the Y8 manifold. It would be easiest to use a Y8 fuel rail rather than a Z6 rail cuz they bolt up differently. Unfortunately, I didn't have a Y8 rail, so I just drilled hole in the Z6 rail so I could use it. It'd also be in you best interest to use new injector seals cuz the Y8 and Z6 seals are different thicknesses, but I didn't and it hasn't leaked at all.
(I forgot to take a pic... doh!)
12. Remove the check valve that was connected to the oil cooler from the Z6 manifold. Reconnect the two hoses and the check valve, and then attach it back to the oil cooler. Also, go ahead and put your new manifold gasket on. Make sure you removed ALL of the old gasket first, as it may not seal properly if you don't.
13. Go ahead an remove the manifold brace from the block entirely, as it won't work with the Y8 mani. Mount the Y8 manifold on the head, using the seven 12mm nuts to hold it in place. Run the hose with the check valve throught hole between the 2nd and 3rd runners, and connect it to one of the two larger nipples on the plenum. The other one will be blocked off.
14. Connect the fpr to the rail. You will need to cut a longer piece of vacuum tubing to run from the fpr to the nipple near the throttle body. I think I used about 10-12".
15. Trim the brake booster line and attach it to the large nipple on the back of the plenum. Also, reattach the small vacuum line to the nipple on the bottom rear of the manifold. There's nowhere to attach this sensor/valve/whatever to the manifold, so either zip tie it off somewhere, or just do like I did and use the hose bracket that bolts to the IACV to hold it in place. Don't worry about the connector that's left over. We'll take care of that later.
16. Bolt up the throttle body and IACV.
17. Reconnect the coolant lines. You can use just one of the hoses instead of the two hoses with the hard line in between.
18. Reconnect the fuel line. Make sure you didn't lose either of the little metal washers.
19. Now attach the throttle cable bracket. As you can see here, the Z6 and Y8 brackets are different. The angle of the Y8 bracket is more appropriate, but the cable is a little short, so you have to mount it using only one of the holes.
20. Now for the left over sensor from the back of the Z6 manifold. It's supposed to be mounted in the manifold (obviously), but I didn't feel like dirlling and tapping more holes in the manifold, so I decided to just mount it in the intake pipe. I just drilled three quick holes. No tapping was necessary.
21. In order to mount it in the intake pipe, you must also extend the connector about 18-24". I wrapped the two wires in electrical tape just to make it a little cleaner looking.
There ya go
22. Reconnect your intake, refill your coolant, being sure to use the air bleed bolt to remove all air bubbles. Now fire it up and see how she runs!
Well, there ya go. Some people say that you can't tell a difference on the butt dyno, but I felt like it was definitely stronger in the 5-7k rpm range. :thumbs_up Plus, it looks pretty sweet with the fat black manifold.
Whew! I don't think I've ever written a post this long before.
Modified by brentmc79 at 7:19 AM 10/11/2004
Well, I finally got off my *** and did it. It took me a while, but it wasn't all that hard.
Tools needed:
1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive ratchets
10mm & 12mm sockets (deep and regular)
assorted extensions
universal joint (may not be needed)
12mm wrench
screwdrivers (phillips and flathead)
pliers
drill and bits
8mm x 1.25 tap
wire stripper
electrical tape
Parts/materials needed:
D16Y8 intake manifold (manual or auto, but I used an auto)
D16Z6 intake and throttle body gaskets
D16Y8 injector seals
12" of 5/32" (4mm) ID vacuum tubing
Y8 fuel rail (although I used a Z6 rail)
Ok, so let's get started. Here's what mine looked like when I started.
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal (duh)
2. Disconnect the intake
3. Disconnect the throttle cable
4. Drain the coolant by removing the plug at the base of the radiator, and be sure to remove the radiator cap to make it go a little faster
5. Remove the throttle body, there's 2 bolts and two nuts, all 12mm. Also, remove the two coolant lines just below the TB, where the manifold meets the head. Remove the IACV held on by two 12mm bolts and the other sensor (not sure what it's called) held by two phillips screws, and unclip the sensor on the bottom of the manifold.
6. Remove the injector clips from the injectors. Use a small flathead screwdriver, but be careful not to lose the clips. Remove the two 10mm nuts to release the injector harness. Place a rag under the fuel filter and then remove the hose that goes to the fuel rail, but first be sure to release fuel pressure by removing the gas cap. Then remove the three 10mm nuts holding the fuel rail down, the vacuum line running from the fpr to the manifold, and remove the rail and injectors. Be careful not to touch the tips of the injectors.
7. Remove the two 12mm bolts from the brace on the underside if the intake manifold. If you're lucky, you can do this without getting under the car, but it's a tight fit.
8. Remove the seven 12mm nuts holding the manifold to the cylinder head. I had to get a universal joint to get to the middle nut on the underside.
9. Slide the manifold off of the studs and lift it up enough to remove the hose connected to the oil cooler, then totally remove the manifold.
10. Now let's swap stuff over from the Z6 mani to the Y8 mani. When looking at the two manifold, you'll notice that there are several things different about them. For one, the TB studs are in opposite locations. This shouldn't matter, although I switched them around anyway.
11. Go ahead and mount the injectors and fuel rail on the Y8 manifold. It would be easiest to use a Y8 fuel rail rather than a Z6 rail cuz they bolt up differently. Unfortunately, I didn't have a Y8 rail, so I just drilled hole in the Z6 rail so I could use it. It'd also be in you best interest to use new injector seals cuz the Y8 and Z6 seals are different thicknesses, but I didn't and it hasn't leaked at all.
(I forgot to take a pic... doh!)
12. Remove the check valve that was connected to the oil cooler from the Z6 manifold. Reconnect the two hoses and the check valve, and then attach it back to the oil cooler. Also, go ahead and put your new manifold gasket on. Make sure you removed ALL of the old gasket first, as it may not seal properly if you don't.
13. Go ahead an remove the manifold brace from the block entirely, as it won't work with the Y8 mani. Mount the Y8 manifold on the head, using the seven 12mm nuts to hold it in place. Run the hose with the check valve throught hole between the 2nd and 3rd runners, and connect it to one of the two larger nipples on the plenum. The other one will be blocked off.
14. Connect the fpr to the rail. You will need to cut a longer piece of vacuum tubing to run from the fpr to the nipple near the throttle body. I think I used about 10-12".
15. Trim the brake booster line and attach it to the large nipple on the back of the plenum. Also, reattach the small vacuum line to the nipple on the bottom rear of the manifold. There's nowhere to attach this sensor/valve/whatever to the manifold, so either zip tie it off somewhere, or just do like I did and use the hose bracket that bolts to the IACV to hold it in place. Don't worry about the connector that's left over. We'll take care of that later.
16. Bolt up the throttle body and IACV.
17. Reconnect the coolant lines. You can use just one of the hoses instead of the two hoses with the hard line in between.
18. Reconnect the fuel line. Make sure you didn't lose either of the little metal washers.
19. Now attach the throttle cable bracket. As you can see here, the Z6 and Y8 brackets are different. The angle of the Y8 bracket is more appropriate, but the cable is a little short, so you have to mount it using only one of the holes.
20. Now for the left over sensor from the back of the Z6 manifold. It's supposed to be mounted in the manifold (obviously), but I didn't feel like dirlling and tapping more holes in the manifold, so I decided to just mount it in the intake pipe. I just drilled three quick holes. No tapping was necessary.
21. In order to mount it in the intake pipe, you must also extend the connector about 18-24". I wrapped the two wires in electrical tape just to make it a little cleaner looking.
There ya go
22. Reconnect your intake, refill your coolant, being sure to use the air bleed bolt to remove all air bubbles. Now fire it up and see how she runs!
Well, there ya go. Some people say that you can't tell a difference on the butt dyno, but I felt like it was definitely stronger in the 5-7k rpm range. :thumbs_up Plus, it looks pretty sweet with the fat black manifold.
Whew! I don't think I've ever written a post this long before.
Modified by brentmc79 at 7:19 AM 10/11/2004
10-10-2004, 09:48 PM
#2
Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (brentmc79)
nice, i have a black IM too 
should have put the IAT sensor on the bottom of your intake.
for you and your fat Y8 manifold.
should have put the IAT sensor on the bottom of your intake.
for you and your fat Y8 manifold.
01-23-2005, 02:19 AM
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Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (Br1anPham)
in all honesty is it worth the swap... i have a complete y8 head, mani, dizzy, rail and injectors ready to swap... all i wanna use is the mani, the cam and cam gear would it be worth my time and lil bit of money...
01-23-2005, 07:31 AM
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Since when does a D16 have an oil cooler ?
And your feeling the exact opposite of what you should be. The big plenum and THINNER runners will give you more low to midrange torque.
Your butt dyno is out of tune.
And your feeling the exact opposite of what you should be. The big plenum and THINNER runners will give you more low to midrange torque.
Your butt dyno is out of tune.
01-23-2005, 07:33 AM
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Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (XxSOHCDriVerxX)
Nice write-up! I was always discouraged to take off the intake mani because of the 12mm bolts on the underside... Never felt like trying to get to them, but it doesn't look TOO hard... I guess I'll give it a try.
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01-23-2005, 07:56 AM
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To make it even easier you can clamp off the coolant lines and the fuel ilnes then you don't have to bleed your cooling system and you won't lose any fuel...
01-24-2006, 09:38 PM
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Go Tigers!
Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (sockvtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brentmc79 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">12. Remove the check valve that was connected to the oil cooler from the Z6 manifold. Reconnect the two hoses and the check valve, and then attach it back to the oil cooler.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how did you remove this from the z6 intake manifold?
how did you remove this from the z6 intake manifold?
01-24-2006, 10:17 PM
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Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (Mwsol)
great writeup! im already runnign the y8 IM, the black looks sick as hell, i think i might paint mine.
01-29-2006, 11:07 AM
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Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (EGDominator)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGDominator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Voyage34 is a dumbass. Don't listen to his nonsense. 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
what nonsense? if you want to shittalk or yell at me do it through PM so we dont have to waste any more of anyone elses time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mwsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I honestly dont know why you did this. Please explain. I'm quite interested.</TD></TR></TABLE> there are a few differenced between the intake manis. the z6 has shorter/fatter runners which would give it better top end, the y8 has a huge plenum for quicker throttle response and somewhat beter midrange. depending on the performance goals each one has its pros and cons.
</TD></TR></TABLE>what nonsense? if you want to shittalk or yell at me do it through PM so we dont have to waste any more of anyone elses time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mwsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I honestly dont know why you did this. Please explain. I'm quite interested.</TD></TR></TABLE> there are a few differenced between the intake manis. the z6 has shorter/fatter runners which would give it better top end, the y8 has a huge plenum for quicker throttle response and somewhat beter midrange. depending on the performance goals each one has its pros and cons.
01-29-2006, 12:33 PM
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Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (Voyage34)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Voyage34 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
there are a few differenced between the intake manis. the z6 has shorter/fatter runners which would give it better top end, the y8 has a huge plenum for quicker throttle response and somewhat beter midrange. depending on the performance goals each one has its pros and cons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know there is a difference, but I happen to know that a z6 is better for N/A, and a y8 mani is better for boost. As far as time was concerned you have wasted alot of it, but whatever makes you feel good for gaining very little horsepower. Next time you end up doing something like this, get some dyno graphs and prove me wrong. Butt dynos do not count.
there are a few differenced between the intake manis. the z6 has shorter/fatter runners which would give it better top end, the y8 has a huge plenum for quicker throttle response and somewhat beter midrange. depending on the performance goals each one has its pros and cons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know there is a difference, but I happen to know that a z6 is better for N/A, and a y8 mani is better for boost. As far as time was concerned you have wasted alot of it, but whatever makes you feel good for gaining very little horsepower. Next time you end up doing something like this, get some dyno graphs and prove me wrong. Butt dynos do not count.
01-29-2006, 02:49 PM
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Mwsol, shut up dude no one cares about your opinion you dont know **** and dont flame
him you *******.
Good job on the manifold swap. Looks good. I remember the days of d16's.
him you *******.
Good job on the manifold swap. Looks good. I remember the days of d16's.
02-02-2006, 01:26 PM
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Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (Mwsol)
Voyage34 has a shitty as car. And I ask a simple question, and get a retaliated, negative response back from this ********. Unecessary slaughtering of a simple question demands a response I bet my car would molest yours in a race. *******! Sorry for disrupting this top, but someone had to stand up and say no to his smart *** remarks. I hope one day I see you on the road driving your **** mobile, and me laughing after I desecrate you with my 1994 Honda Civic HB. So **** on that, ******.
Sorry for disrupting this top, but someone had to stand up and say no to his smart *** remarks. I hope one day I see you on the road driving your **** mobile, and me laughing after I desecrate you with my 1994 Honda Civic HB. So **** on that, ******.
02-02-2006, 01:57 PM
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Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (EGDominator)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGDominator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Voyage34 has a shitty as car. And I ask a simple question, and get a retaliated, negative response back from this ********. Unecessary slaughtering of a simple question demands a response I bet my car would molest yours in a race. *******! Sorry for disrupting this top, but someone had to stand up and say no to his smart *** remarks. I hope one day I see you on the road driving your **** mobile, and me laughing after I desecrate you with my 1994 Honda Civic HB. So **** on that, ******. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mwsol, shut up dude no one cares about your opinion you dont know **** and dont flame
him you *******.
Good job on the manifold swap. Looks good. I remember the days of d16's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mwsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know there is a difference, but I happen to know that a z6 is better for N/A, and a y8 mani is better for boost. As far as time was concerned you have wasted alot of it, but whatever makes you feel good for gaining very little horsepower. Next time you end up doing something like this, get some dyno graphs and prove me wrong. Butt dynos do not count.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Who the expletive are you people? Go back to masturbating to free pr0n and get off my website.
Jesus Christ. Stop ruining threads with your petty bullshit or I'm going to ban you.
Sorry for disrupting this top, but someone had to stand up and say no to his smart *** remarks. I hope one day I see you on the road driving your **** mobile, and me laughing after I desecrate you with my 1994 Honda Civic HB. So **** on that, ******. </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mwsol, shut up dude no one cares about your opinion you dont know **** and dont flame
him you *******.
Good job on the manifold swap. Looks good. I remember the days of d16's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mwsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know there is a difference, but I happen to know that a z6 is better for N/A, and a y8 mani is better for boost. As far as time was concerned you have wasted alot of it, but whatever makes you feel good for gaining very little horsepower. Next time you end up doing something like this, get some dyno graphs and prove me wrong. Butt dynos do not count.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Who the expletive are you people? Go back to masturbating to free pr0n and get off my website.
Jesus Christ. Stop ruining threads with your petty bullshit or I'm going to ban you.
02-03-2006, 08:12 AM
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Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (Archidictus)
cant believe this thread was brought up from a year ago and then some asshats come in talking garbage. 
this is a good thread, its about time i change my puny OBD1 DX manifold on my boosted D16. Just 1 thing i found wrong...
that 'oil cooler' is actually the PCV oil catchcan and that check valve is the actual PCV valve. I got confused w/ all that oil cooler stuff hehe.
Good thread
this is a good thread, its about time i change my puny OBD1 DX manifold on my boosted D16. Just 1 thing i found wrong...
that 'oil cooler' is actually the PCV oil catchcan and that check valve is the actual PCV valve. I got confused w/ all that oil cooler stuff hehe.
Good thread
02-03-2006, 08:19 AM
#21
Go Tigers!
Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (nerdsports)
I brought the thread back from the dead because I asked a technical question while doing a swap.
You know how it is, working at night outside in the cold, getting dirty and not wanting to spend 20 minutes searching and/or creating a thread
You know how it is, working at night outside in the cold, getting dirty and not wanting to spend 20 minutes searching and/or creating a thread
02-03-2006, 09:25 AM
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Re: DIY D16Y8 intake manifold onto D16Z6 write-up how-to LOTS OF PICS!!! (Bense)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I brought the thread back from the dead because I asked a technical question while doing a swap.
You know how it is, working at night outside in the cold, getting dirty and not wanting to spend 20 minutes searching and/or creating a thread</TD></TR></TABLE>
wasnt talking about you. ive brought some threads back up myself, but the asshats after you (the trial users) started talking nonsense in a thread w/ useful info.
hope you got your ? answered.
You know how it is, working at night outside in the cold, getting dirty and not wanting to spend 20 minutes searching and/or creating a thread</TD></TR></TABLE>
wasnt talking about you. ive brought some threads back up myself, but the asshats after you (the trial users) started talking nonsense in a thread w/ useful info.
hope you got your ? answered.
02-06-2006, 02:42 PM
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Re: (95gainfla)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95gainfla »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what HG do you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
?
He didn't replace the head gasket.
You can use a d16y8 head gasket because they are cheaper than the z6 ones!
I've never seen a d16z6 with an oil cooler before.
?
He didn't replace the head gasket.
You can use a d16y8 head gasket because they are cheaper than the z6 ones!
I've never seen a d16z6 with an oil cooler before.