JudahWayne

Howdy, so I'm sure everyone has seen a thread like this a million times, so I'll ask new questions. I just got my a/c system leak checked and all of the r134a pulled from the system by a shop. I am going to replace my discharge hose as it is leaking, and then re-fill the system at home. My a/c has been pretty crappy, as r12 to r134a systems are known for being, and my compressor has a small leak and I pretty sure is on the way out, so I said HEY, I GOT AN IDEA. I came across the 12a "duracool" type HC based refrigerants, which are just refined propane. It's supposed to be more efficient marginally than even r12, I think it's something like 6oz of 12a = 17oz of r12. Anyway, I'm wanting to try it seeing as I have nothing to lose. There are a few things I'd like to know before just jumping in. I know I have heard people say a/c capacity's in lbs, psi, and oz, so I really don't know what to go by. According to my understanding, I simply need to fill my evacuated system to about 40 psi steady. The math I did once said my a/c system holds 33oz of r12 factory, so in turn I need 12oz 12a "duracool"? Apparently the duracool has higher pressure/more charge in fewer oz? If anyone can explain that to me that would be sick.

Last question is about oil. The shop that emptied my system didn't remove any oil, just the r134a. The duracool can and website says the refrigerant comes with "oil chill", their brand a/c oil. Does this mean I can just recharge without worrying about oil? If I were to replace the compressor myself in the future and recharge with duracool, would I need to add separate pag 46?

I've read many threads about the simplicity of using this stuff, but in my head I'm going through all these details. If anyone with a crx or ef civic has done a HC type refrigerant conversion, I'd love some tips. Thanks

Here's a link to the product: Duracool 12a Refrigerant 6oz Can – Deepfreeze Refrigerants Inc.

Ryanthegreat1

Go to the larger trs09 134a pump and a parallel flow condenser.

Then 134a will work as good or better than r12.

I have no issues keeping my EF wagon ice cold on 100+ degree days with this setup.

JudahWayne

I'll definitely take that into consideration when I go to replace my compressor once it fails. I still wanna figure out this duracool stuff, but I've heard not good things about the OE a/c compressors in these civics, so that would be awesome to do once my compressor dies.

Is that a larger and newer compressor? I looked it up and it says it's for late 2000's hondas, but it mounts on the old d15?

Also I do not know where to buy reputable parts for a good price, I'm leery of eBay. Could you give me a link to a compressor (pump as you called it) and the parallel flow condenser?

Ryanthegreat1

There is a whole thread in the EF section about this.

That 12a duracool or whatever is likely snake oil or it would be common practice.

JudahWayne

I was looking at threads and looks like I'll have to start a thread of my own on the subject. Fittings, wiring, mounts, specific years of the compressor, lot more than just upgrading.

I think there's a lot of skepticism around the hydrocarbon refrigerants, but I've seen nothing to back it up. Only good things so far. Just not a lot of details because A/C work is something people seem to shy away from, and when they do try it they stick to the mainstream.

DCFIVER

HC as a refrigerant works fairly well.

The issue is having a flammable gas in the cabin. There is zero reason to risk that kind of danger when the proper refrigerants are available.

DCFIVER

There may be something wrong with your system. Ive retrofitted 100s of systems and have always managed to get vent temps into the 40s, even on 90F+ days.
Now comparatively speaking R12 is superior,but R134 is plenty cold.....

Refrigerant is charged by weight. Period. Anything else is incorrect and will likely be inaccurate.

R134 charge is 75%-80% of the R12 charge.

Duracool is highly flammable. Duracool 22(same basic formula) is banned(illegal)for residential use for this reason. The only people who say Duracool is safe to use is.....Duracool.

If the shop removed the refrigerant with an RRR machine, they removed a few ounces of oil. If you have an ongoing leak, you are constantly losing oil. The number 1 reason for compressor failure is lack of oil, due to leaks.
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Youre over thinking this. there are tried and true methods that have been used for decades. Just follow the path already blazed.....