A/C question
Ok my 91 integra is r-12 still it works but not very well on the highway it gets cool but anyway what I want to do is replace all my lines compressor drier and expansion valve and retrofit it....what I wanna know is it worth it to do this all I want is my a/c to be cold in traffic anyone got experince with this or any opinions lmk
thanks all
thanks all
I'm not an expert on this since my shop doesn't do retrofits. Someone like FCM knows much more about it, hopefully he'll chime in.
If there's nothing wrong with them, there's no need to change the lines or compressor. A retrofit requires that you change the receiver-drier and all o-rings, and convert to r134a service ports. I think you're supposed to replace the expansion valve, but I'm not sure. Changing the condenser to one designed for r134a will give you the best performance, but isn't required.
Unless you have a way of getting/affording R-12, I'd say it's worth it if done properly
If there's nothing wrong with them, there's no need to change the lines or compressor. A retrofit requires that you change the receiver-drier and all o-rings, and convert to r134a service ports. I think you're supposed to replace the expansion valve, but I'm not sure. Changing the condenser to one designed for r134a will give you the best performance, but isn't required.
Unless you have a way of getting/affording R-12, I'd say it's worth it if done properly
As mentioned^^^, replace the accumulator, [filter/dryer] and accessible O rings, and service ports, you should also replace the cycling switch with an adjustable one, you will also need to flush the evaporator and condenser to remove the oil, drain oil from compressor, replace with proper amount of R134a compatible oil, [Ester oil], I also add 2oz of C4 oil, the C4 and half the Ester oil goes into the compressor the other half of Ester goes into the filter, let it sit on a vacuum pump for at least 1 hr, then charge with about 90% of the R12 charge.
I understand that R12 may still be avalable in the US, check with some A/C shops, if your system is still functional, [working and still holding pressure] a recharge is maybe all you need, even with the higher price of R12 it may still be cheaper then the retrofit.
With that said, STAY AWAY from any of the DIY "A/C in a can" crap, it will only damage and contaminate the system, make sure any shop you take it to does not charge the system with anything but pure R12. 94
I understand that R12 may still be avalable in the US, check with some A/C shops, if your system is still functional, [working and still holding pressure] a recharge is maybe all you need, even with the higher price of R12 it may still be cheaper then the retrofit.
With that said, STAY AWAY from any of the DIY "A/C in a can" crap, it will only damage and contaminate the system, make sure any shop you take it to does not charge the system with anything but pure R12. 94
I add about .5-1 once of R12 to the A/C system of my winter car, [89 Dodge Dynasty] each year [been working on my 94LS for the last 2 years] it is all I need to do the get 2 degrees C from the vents.
Find a shop that will "bump", [add a little] your R12 system, it may be all you need.
I just did a 92 Mercury, A/C had not worked for 5 years, still had a little R12 in it, recovered that, did a nitrogen test, [250PSI for 2 hr] it held pressure so we charged it up, 44 oz of R12 later and it blows 3 degrees C out of the vents.
Evan though it was $2.50 an once for the R12, [$110] and $120 for the recharge and another $80 in labour, [nitrogen test, find and repair a broken wire], it was still over $200cheaper then a retrofit, and if all you need is a "bump", it will be way less.
Just make sure the shop is bumping it with R12, not any of that DIY can chit, REDTEK Duracool, it needs to be 100% R12. 94
Find a shop that will "bump", [add a little] your R12 system, it may be all you need.
I just did a 92 Mercury, A/C had not worked for 5 years, still had a little R12 in it, recovered that, did a nitrogen test, [250PSI for 2 hr] it held pressure so we charged it up, 44 oz of R12 later and it blows 3 degrees C out of the vents.
Evan though it was $2.50 an once for the R12, [$110] and $120 for the recharge and another $80 in labour, [nitrogen test, find and repair a broken wire], it was still over $200cheaper then a retrofit, and if all you need is a "bump", it will be way less.
Just make sure the shop is bumping it with R12, not any of that DIY can chit, REDTEK Duracool, it needs to be 100% R12. 94
Imma try and take it in and have the system checked out I do have a can of r-12 should I try bumping alilttle in it first of have it checked out first
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