fragmare

I think I've got too much oil in my A/C system, and it's definitely affecting the cooling. It's got whatever amount leftover from the R12 days, plus at least 4 oz from a previous retrofit and another 4-5 oz from a recent charge. I'd like to get rid of some of it. I know it generally sits at the bottom of the A/C parts when the A/C isn't running. Can I just loosen a bolt near the bottom of one of the lines somewhere and let gravity + pressure take it's course? I really don't care if I loose some refrigerant along with it. After I drain some oil, I'll likely end up getting an evac done and recharge it (with 134a only, no extra oil, this time).

Former User

The A/C system is under about 100 PSI pressure without it running, so no you cannot just drain the oil out by gravity.

You either need to read a lot more about how A/C systems work...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/%2A%2A%2Aair-conditioning-c-guide-how-works-when-doesnt%2A%2A%2A-2900177/

...or take your car to a shop for A/C work.

A reputable shop will recover the refrigerant, flush the system of all oil, replace the receiver/dryer, and evacuate and recharge.

fragmare

Heh... yea, I'm aware it's pressurized. I'm also aware that it won't "drain" like I'm changing my motor oil. I'm simply wanting to "vent" the system a bit so that some of the oil can exit the system. I know some refrigerant will be lost as well. The drier is brand new, the system has already been evacuated and subsequently recharged. Evacuating the system, though, doesn *not* remove oil to any significant degree. I'm just wanting to know if there's a way to remove a few ounces of oil without having to do a full flush... even if that means getting a puddle of PAG and a small cloud of 134a in my driveway.

Former User

The answer doesn't change.

fragmare

Eh, I'll probably just end up getting a flush kit with A/C solvent and starting over anyway. The excess oil needs to go.

redm3turbo

if you get caught releasing freon into the air, your facing a hefty fine....
cheaper to let the shops handle that kinda junk. its like 90 bucks here for a full recharge/evac etc.

fragmare

Yea I know. A simple evac isn't going to cut it, though. Pulling a deep vacuum on the system gets rid of the refrigerant and a tiny fraction of the oil, but most of the oil is left in there. The proper way to get rid of ALL the oil in the system is to a) get the refrigerant evacuated, b) disconnect compressor and drier (and any lines with muffler), c) use aerosol or compressed air flush kit with A/C solvent to flush oil and other crap out of the lines, etc., d) drain compressor completely, e) replace drier. My issue is that I don't need all the oil removed, just some of it. But I guess it's all or nothing with A/C systems...

fragmare

Pressure that is "too high" is very dependant on the ambient temperature and humidity. Use this chart to find out where your pressure lies. If it's out of range according to the chart, you'll know it's too high.

96_coupe

Some of the oil is removed when the r134 is removed. Get a new dryer (will have most of the oil in it) and have a shop recover the r134 and pull it in to a vacuum (to remove moisture) and recharge the system. I recommend having them put dye in if it's leaking (if it doesn't hold a vacuum when they pull out the r134 than it has a leak). Good luck

redm3turbo

yea...seriously, I am totally against using shops if at all I can help it. Then again doing something correctly is the most important. If you can DIY correctly, then Im all for it. Following directions to do a timing belt or whatever is one thing...that is accomplishable. A/C evac/recharge machines are 10-15k USED for a reason though. Just let the shops handle it. They plug it in, and just let the machine do its thing.

I know your trying to save a buck by doing it DIY....however your really not going to be able to do it DIY. Its going to save you money in the long run to just have the shop put it on the machine and correctly do it. Compressors/and all the related A/C accessories related are very expensive to replace and or repair...

End of season prices at least in the northeast would prob set you back 60 bucks.