be18see1

I'm running a boosted b16 with a Fluidyne and temps just keep slowly climbing 200 F cruising 215+ after boosting. I'm trying to do anything and everything to remedy the situation. First attempt was 195 F thermostat with 50/50 mix. I swapped to 170 F thermostat with little change. Next, I added a bottle of Water Wetter. Some change, but still runs too hot (test performed on 96 F day). My downpipe only sits about 3 inches from the radiator so I have 50' of exhaust wrap in the mail already. I'm upgrading from a 13 psi cap to a 16 psi cap for a little extra boilover protection as well. I'm considering the following things:

1.) drilling holes in thermostat
2.) changing to distilled water + Water Wetter only
3.) changing to 25/75 antifreeze/water mix + Water Wetter

Any other things I can change while I have the coolant system pulled apart? I am looking for those who have experience.

kyden

you need airflow to the radiator.

be18see1

Yeah, thanks. I realize that. I think the problem is the thing is getting heat soaked.

fcm

What rad do you have?

You may need to upgrade the rad and fan(s).

I assume you have an intercooler in front of the rad, correct? 94

slowcivic2k

Increasing the size of the radiator will help, do not use a thermostat below 170, with as much power as I assume you are making, the pulls will cause temperature fluctuations that may warp parts over a period of time. Now would be a time to reflect on your front end cooling, Any blockages? Intercooler in the way? High flow fans will help at lower speeds, and I suggest you use one, also use an aftermarket temp probe to kick the fans on sooner.

What is the model of your Honda?

Increasing cap pressure will have a positive effect. Use more water in your mix, as much as 70/30 will increase heat transfer, and the 16psi cap will help keep it from boiling early.

Do you have a block guard or a "filled and drilled" block?

Sourcing a performance water pump (if there is such a thing) to get as much flow as possible is very important, coolant doesn't do squat if it doesn't move well.

be18see1

It's a 1993 Integra with a nice big FMIC. The block has Darton mid sleeves. I tried removing the weather strip and propping up the rear of the hood 3/8" and I noticed temps drop by about 3-5*. I ordered heat wrap for my downpipe which sits uncomfortably close to the radiator (~3-4 inches). I will try to swap to a 15/85 or 25/75 mix this weekend. If THOSE things don't work, then I will start designing some sort of ducting. to direct more air through the radiator.

Thanks for the recommendations guys!

fcm

Can you take a pic(s) of the rad and intercooler from a few angles, [front, back, top and sides]?

What type of rad? 94

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Stock fan/shroud on rad?

be18see1

It's a Fluidyne radiator. I can try to remember to snap some pictures. I know that the root cause is that the area it's in doesn't get the best air flow, but it's simply not possible to relocate it due to space constraints. If you're familiar with second gens, it's on the passenger side and is partially behind the bulkhead under the head light. I am investigating making or buying a fan shroud for the radiator, as well as fabricating some aluminum or SS ducting to the radiator inlet.

be18see1

It's a slim fan with no shroud. It pulls a reasonable amount of air through the radiator but I have no way to measure or compare it to a stock setup.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

The shroud makes ALL the difference.

be18see1

Yeah, maybe I'll try to weld something together later. Thanks.

nychonda

Do temps rise while driving or while stopped or both?

What type of slimfan do you have?

be18see1

Sort of both. They just go up when I accelerate and don't drop back.

fcm

Still would like to se pix of your setup. 94

nychonda

If you are on the highway crusing for a couple minutes (after everything has gone through at least one heat cycle) does the temp become stable or keep climbing? If temps become stable then I bet its the radiator fan unable to flow enough air to keep things cool enough at a stop or low speeds.

Is your radiator facing perfectly forward?

be18see1

pics in a second.

be18see1

Radiator location, which is dictated by wastegate location:




Ducting mock up:

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

This is the shroud I'm running right now. If I can ever afford a FAL that's what will replace it.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...70&postcount=8

wtf_is_jdm

Im thinking that you might want to get a full size radiator. But like you said, you are kind of short on space in there.

slowcivic2k

What kind of horsepower are you making? You said you are using a MID sleeve, if you have access to a laser thermometer, take a temp reading from the side of the head, and the cylinder block and see what you get.

92civiceg9gsr

What temp does the fan come on at? With a 170 t-stat you should have the fan coming on at 180-185.

be18see1

Fan usually kicks on around 190 or so. I just jumped the fan switch last night while doing some idle tuning and temps never exceeded 188 in my garage. I will evaluate my ducting this week when I swap out my bad axle.

fcm

Problem is definatly airflow, [lack of], Jeezzz even the head light blocks part of the rad.

I would definatly look into a full size rad, even if you have to locate it in front of rad support and get rid of hood latch and use hood pins. 94

cetcivic

V-mount setup will do the trick.