Sleeper

Great idea. If you have any questions, ask Larry over on the endyn board(theoldone.com). He can even provide the posts and locations for placement. Make sure to do the machining(bore/hone/any decking) after the block is posted.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sleeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The GE sleeved block doesn't have the support at the top of the cylinders, its down the bore. Surrounding the bottom of the combustion chamber with metal increases heat. Drill holes in it, scallop it, do both, it still doesn't address the lack of support where the sleeve splits. The heaviest thrust on the side of the cylinder is where the rod angle is most severe, this where you would want the extra support, not at the top of the cylinder.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not that far down the bore. The blockguard supports the cylinders by bracing it, not supporting the outside. It keeps the cylinder walls from "flexing" as easily. I have experienced no heat problems whatsoever from the GE block guard.

How about the Dartons? They're aren't down the bore at all and I haven't heard of any overheating problems with them. Why is the blockguard any different? You guys are talking crap about blockguards and most likely it's only cause a few people installed them incorrectly and had problems.

Sleeper

Supporting stock sleeves effectively and sleeving the block are not one in the same. The dartons are all one piece centrifugal cast ductile iron, not a piece of aluminum with holes drilled in it and sandwiched in the top of the water jacket. You can't compare the 2, its like comparing apples to oranges. Darton’s “swirl coolant technology”, is their solution to address the cooling issue. It looks to be very effective and your setup is testament to that. But I also think Golden Eagle’s design is very effective. There is more than one way to skin a cat, and its gives us more options in the end, which is always a good thing. I still think posting is a better option than a blockguard for stock sleeves, which is the application mentioned in the first post.

From Darton’s website:

The enhanced water flow in and around the flange area is possible because of ported water flow control engineering we call "swirl coolant technology". This process begins with specific engineering models of respective cylinder head and combustion chamber designs and then we promote increased flow of water in those areas of the upper sleeve area subjected to the most heat. There is a different engineering model for each engine and cylinder design. While heat is generally considered to translate into energy, high resident heat in the combustion chamber can lead to detonation, the single highest cause of engine failure in the high horsepower regimes. High RPM normally translates into efficient scavenging of air-flow but during misfires or incomplete flame propagation, high cylinder pressures and temperatures are created. Our MID design compensates for this high resident heat soak condition.

In the normal dry sleeve installation the cooling medium, water, must transfer heat absorption through block material and sleeves, which may be dissimilar metals. When dry sleeves are pressed in with interference fit, the materials interface is not perfect which further exacerbates heat transfer. This thermal conductivity is inefficient and as more heat is generated, the combustion process is compromised. Even in wet sleeve designs of the past, water is never efficiently processed or flowed between the block and head to provide for maximum heat dissipation in the combustion chamber. Inherent in open or closed deck engine blocks of cast iron or aluminum is a certain amount of water stagnation. This is like pouring water through a funnel, there is really no flow or velocity until the water exits the spigot. In the case of blocks and heads, the casting ports are designed for ease of casting not efficient flow. Now with Darton's "MID", swirl coolant technology the cooling medium is ported and directed to significantly improve heat transfer where it is needed most, in the upper cylinder wall/flange area.

citrus3000

I want to buy your max rev mani. This is the only way I can get a hold of you. Send me an email so we can talk.

rice_n_me

i'm not making an assumption....you can believe what you want......you should try talking to a honda engine builder, not a tech man or a salesman for any block guard companies, an actual engine builder. Sorry if anyone made you mad......

Chuji

I just made this same stupid mistake. I had my bottom end totally built then I decided to tap in my blockgaurd, stupid idea. I took it to the machine shop today and I bent in 2 cylinders by about .30mm and made them egg-shaped. The machine shop said that they wouldnt re-hone it and put it together if it was their motor. What do you think is gonna happen when you bend metal in, then back out, then heat it up. Im gonna send mine out and get it resleeved, im not taking any chances.

RyanEJ8

All last year Matt Patrick ran a 125 shot dry nitrous system with around 22 psi of boost on his D16Z6. This year he is running a 2 stage 245 shot nitrous system with around 22 psi still. Guess what, he uses a blockguard to put down 400whp last year, and now over 500+ this year. Has had NO problems. That is enough proof for me that they work.

Also all this egg shaping crap, I am no metal engineer, but it doesn't seem possible to me that a little aluminum blockguard could bend those sleeves which are partially made out of STEEL. Just a thought but I didn't think it was very easy to bend steel with aluminum.