turbodGSR

a few months ago i installed a blockguard in a b18c and was very tight going in. the motor lasted about 1000 miles and it egg shaped the cylinders. Is the block junk or can i have it bored and put oversized pistons in it. I was worried that if i bored it, the blockguard would egg the cylinders again. What do u guys think?

Blaze45

Well you installed it incorrectly (obviously) so, if you have it sleeved, you could just ditch the blockguard.....

Blaze

turbodGSR

i really dont want to sleeve it. bump

b20mike

did you bore or hone after you put in the block guard?? or did you just hammer it in and start it up?

NonovUrbizniz

Uh you're going to need to measure it to see if it's in or out of acceptable varience...

if it's "egg" shaped at all then my guess would be no.

and to whoever talked about boring and honing.... WTF are you talking about...

He didn't install pistons or rings... there is NO need to hone cyl. walls to install a block guard.

b20mike

I talked about boring and honing, because to install a block guard properly you need should bore and or hone after the installation to bring the cylinders back to "round". I was wondering if he just pulled the head a put in a block guard or did it when doing a rebuild thus having a bore or honing done after the installation.

NonovUrbizniz

Gotcha...

I didn't realize this was part of the process.. .and it seemed funny because if you "bore" the cylinders the pistons will no longer fit...

But after looking around I see it's because the block guard bends the tops of the cyl. wall in a little so it need to be widened a little and then honed.

turbodGSR

i put the guard in then lightly honed it. i know the cylinders are out of round,so would i bore job fix it,or will it egg shape again?

b20mike

It all depends how much out of round you are and how much you intend on boring.

RyanEJ8

How did you know the cylinders were "egg shaped"? Did you just decide to pull the head off and check, or did something go wrong that you had to take it apart?

On the Golden Eagle instructions it stated:
" Sometimes your block may need to be re-honed as the block guard installation may cause your cylinders to go out of round."

I assume this means it is not always necessary?

turbodGSR

the engine had blowby and i did a leakdown and knew something was up. the local machine shop checked bore and said it was out-of-round.

turbodGSR

any help

NonovUrbizniz

Why don't you ask the machine shop that inspected it if it can be put back to round... they're the one's who'd be doing so if possible right?

Any one who could tell you would have to see the block and measure it themselves...

Unless you furnish SPECIFIC measurements noone can begin to answer if it's fixable or not.

turbodGSR

they said a bore and hone would fix it,but i am afraid the walls will egg again. any suggestions...

NonovUrbizniz

how much money have you dumped into "blockguarding" your block... only to have it damage it?

If I were you I'd cut my losses and get it sleeved...

Say you do overbore and put in all this new stuff.... how pissed are you going to be if it happens again... and you have to do it all over hopefully that time being smart enough to just SAVE money by sleeving it...

I know it's expensive and all but if I were you I'd see it as more cost effective...

the block guarding isn't really considered good by anyone as far as I know... sleeveing or posting are your only real options imo... and posting all depends on the shop that does it...

Sleeper

Piston top being the bottom of the combustion chamber, decreasing coolant flow and increasing heat at the top of the cylinder can't be a good thing. If the cylinder splits, it will be start midway where the rod angle is most severe, and split upward toward the top of the sleeve where your blockguard is. As mentioned before posting/sleeving are the best options for added support. Ditch the blockguard, bore and hone.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much money have you dumped into "blockguarding" your block... only to have it damage it?

If I were you I'd cut my losses and get it sleeved...

Say you do overbore and put in all this new stuff.... how pissed are you going to be if it happens again... and you have to do it all over hopefully that time being smart enough to just SAVE money by sleeving it...

I know it's expensive and all but if I were you I'd see it as more cost effective...

the block guarding isn't really considered good by anyone as far as I know... sleeveing or posting are your only real options imo... and posting all depends on the shop that does it... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sleeves fail too. I have seen lots of threads posting pics when their sleeves have sunk. Blockguards are proven. Zex Man runs around 500 hp on his D16 with just a blockguard.

NonovUrbizniz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoldenEagleMfg.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We have a LIFETIME warranty against sleeves cracking!!! We guarantee that you will never crack a sleeve due to boost pressure under 60 psi ( detonation excluded!! ) as long as the bore size is within our recommended size range for the application. Up to 85 mm can be bnoosted as much as 60 psi!!!! Trust me, we have done it for testing and it was fun, yet very scary </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't see the block guard companies offering ANYTHING even remotely close to that...

here's the thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=453402

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't see the block guard companies offering ANYTHING even remotely close to that...

here's the thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=453402

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What about when this happens?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=561504

I'm not completely against sleeving. I would only get them if I wanted a larger bore.

91tegrals

wat all is in involved in putting in a block guard..

RyanEJ8

My Golden Eagle block guard slipped in pretty nice. They say you can't force them in, I had to give it a little force, but I DIDN'T HAMMER it in. It should be a snug fit. No problems as of yet.

rice_n_me

Blockguards restrict the flow of water at the top of the cylinders, which happens to be the "hottest" parts of the cylinder. Blockguards will net you======trouble.

Sleeving is the best way to go, if you're in need of a bullet proof bottom end. If the sleeving is done correctly, by a shop that knows how and what they are doing, you will not have sinking problems.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_n_me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Blockguards restrict the flow of water at the top of the cylinders, which happens to be the "hottest" parts of the cylinder. Blockguards will net you======trouble.

Sleeving is the best way to go, if you're in need of a bullet proof bottom end. If the sleeving is done correctly, by a shop that knows how and what they are doing, you will not have sinking problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, So this Golden Eagle sleeved block didn't block coolant flow the same way my Golden Eagle blockguard did?

Golden Eagle sleeved block


My Golden Eagle block guard


If you would have actually looked at them next to each other, before making an assumption, you would have realized they are almost the same design and shape at the top, only the block guard appears it would have BETTER coolant flow as it has holes for coolant flow in addition to the open spaces.


Modified by RyanCivic2000 at 11:59 AM 8/15/2003

Sleeper

The GE sleeved block doesn't have the support at the top of the cylinders, its down the bore. Surrounding the bottom of the combustion chamber with metal increases heat. Drill holes in it, scallop it, do both, it still doesn't address the lack of support where the sleeve splits. The heaviest thrust on the side of the cylinder is where the rod angle is most severe, this where you would want the extra support, not at the top of the cylinder.

mmuller

what about block posting?I might just try that...

http://www.muller.net/sonny/crx/engine/posted.html