Big-Chris

My blower motor quit working on my 03 accord so i went through some basic troubleshooting steps. First I checked battery voltage and it was at 11.89 volts. I hooked my charger up to obtain atleast 12.6 volts to the system. I then checked all fuses with my test light. All fuses good. I went to the blower motor and checked voltage with key "on"( the key has been on since I started checking fuses.) I found source voltage on one of the pins and checked ground on the other pin at the connector for the blower motor. I got a reading of very high resistance. I hooked my 30' test lead up to the battery negative post, went to blower motor plug and verified the blower motor works by jumping the ground side. Went to the radio/hvac controll module and removed it checking my wiring between unit and motor. Good readings, which leads me to believe that I have a failed switch. (all this done with key off/ no power after verifieng blower motor works) Put everything back together and was going to research parts the next day. I went to start my car the next morning and it cranks and will not start. The green immobilizer light that looks like a key was flashing with ignition on and while cranking. I researched this and found the car was not reading my key. I bought the car on a used car lot, my key is solid metal and has no transponder chip inside. this is the only key I got with the car. The car has an aftermarket alarm/remote start system installed in it.
Somehow I triggerd the factory immobilizer. I had a key cut and the the onboard computer programed to the key by a locksmith. The green light goes out and the car still has a crank with no start problem. The aftermarket alarm was not working correctly the morning after the initial troubleshooting also. Symptoms like remote start not working, doors not locking/unlocking with the remote. I found that very poor and not professional work was done installing this alarm, wires wadded up, found 4 ground wires 3 of them grounds for each of the 3 moduled ran into a butt connector and then a single wire to a factory ground stud under the dash. scotch connectors everywhere all over wires in bundles that were not being used. There is more scotch connectors that are empty than there is being used all the same type and color. I decided to remove the aftermarket system. I carefully removed everything (all with negative post off the battery) and I labeld were everything everything was routed to. No wires were cut in half, even signal to starter wire. I removed the entire system. The one defect I found is the loop that surrounds the key switch had has a break on 2 out of 3of the wires. I figured this to be a factor, connected my battery and I still have a crank no start situation. Before I removed the alarm I verified all the fuses are still good, and now I verified all my fuses are still good after un-installing the alarm. I did some research (google) and checked voltage at the fuse under the hood for the ecm ang got source voltage. I checked all the fuses inside the car at the panel at drivers side. With ignition on I got source voltage to all fuses except 3 and those 3 are the bottom row and the first 3 in line from the rear of the car. One is the coil fuse and my voltage reading on all three are .768
I checked and double checked even triple checked for a break in wiring anything possible that would cause a failure, Im getting fuel because I can smell it after cranking. I have not verified I have spark yet. I called Honda dealer in town and got the "sir, we can take a look at it for you at $103 an hour for you" everytime i tried to ask a simple question. Im stuck and would like some feedback of anything Im missing to check. I had the whole hvac/radio assembly out at one time. Today I got in the car and looked for anything obviouse I found that the blower motor fully functions now as should. What am I missing? Does something need reset after immobilizer was triggerd? Did locksmith forget a step in programming? By the way I did not know what I could find inside the immobilizer bypass module untill the next day or he would not have been needid. Can anyone please point me in the direction of what else I could check, or do? Thank you for your time.

Accordman1

It looks like the after market alarm installer did quite a damaging job on your car. I had a Viper Alarm system installed in my Honda 95 Accord V6 at Circuit City and what a mess they did. After a couple years, the alarm would randomly goes off and the door would not unlock. I eventually had to ripped it out and found out that the idiots at most after market installer would tear your car electrical apart by tapping into almost every wire before they got the right one. I ended up have to replace the wiring hardness that they damaged. I would never had an aftermarket alarm installed ever again. However, your problem is probably partly blamed for the key not being recognized by the car ECM. What you had from the locksmith is the valet key which has the chip but not the remote function. Most if not all Honda Accord LX or EX has remote entry so you could go to Honda dealer to get the remote entry key and had it programmed. You won't have the factory alarm unless you have an EX. Now for no start problem, check three things in order: spark, fuel and timing. Check to make sure you have sparks on every plugs. Check to make sure that you have fuel in every cylinder. Check to make sure that your car timing is still good, a broken timing belt will stop the car starting. Lastly, if you have a code reader, check to see if there is any ODBII code.