collinkuhn1

Where to start.. I got the car for free a while back with a bad motor in it, bought a 93 Civic that was in an accident for a parts car. I swapped the engine, interior and exhaust system over and after the engine swap the car blows black smoke really bad and gets super bad gas mileage. I know this is an issue of it running rich, but when the engine was still in the parts car I heard it run and it didn’t smoke like this. I’ve replaced my fuel injectors, the fuel pressure regulator and a few other things I can’t remember. Also gutted the cat. It’s just confusing me because the car runs really good and it’s not underpowered or anything, it just smokes. Any help or tips would be appreciated. It’s a d15b7, only CEL is for TA sensor. Also don’t think it’d matter but I don’t have a power steering or ac compressor belt on

JRCivic1

Replace the IAT sensor and see how it runs. Also, make sure that the MAP sensor is reading manifold pressure.

collinkuhn1

How do I make sure the map sensor is working?

JRCivic1

Swap it with a known good MAP sensor and see if the car runs differently. Unless you have a tuneable engine management system (like Hondata s300) or a factory HDS that can read live data... you really don't know. I suppose you could check the voltage on the MAP signal wire while the car is idling... it should be well below 2v (maybe even closer to 1 or 1.5v) if functioning properly... it should be 2.9v with the key on engine off. If it is anywhere near that while the engine is idling... you either have a wiring problem OR the MAP sensor is damaged.

collinkuhn1

Ok thanks, my friend has a del sol I will try to try the map sensor from his car and see how it runs. Also I think I am either reading it wrong or there is something wrong with the way my CEL flashes when I jump the connector to read the codes. The pause between blinks seems to be way longer than it should be and the rapid blinks are very very dim, almost can’t see them at all. I have read obd1 before, and this car doesn’t seem right. I did swap my instrument cluster for one from an LX (wanted a tach) but I don’t know if that’d affect it. I was able to pull codes all right I’m just not confident I’m getting a correct code and was wondering if you’ve seen anything like I’m describing

JRCivic1

Unfortunately, 1992 ECU's have really short blinks as you have described... difficult to read in the daylight. Honda fixed this in 1993. Swapping the instrument cluster has nothing to do with it... it isn't your fault. Just check them at or near dark.

mk378

Check the wire colors to make sure you have all the sensor plugs plugged onto the right parts.

collinkuhn1

So I took another look at the car this afternoon checking all the wiring and I noticed one of the hoses from the throttle body didn’t go anywhere. Vacuum leak. I checked for vacuum leaks before but the reason I didn’t find this then was because when I swapped the engine I took off the hose on opposite ends on both cars, so on my car I now had a hose on each end making it look as if it was good but neither hose went anywhere. I’m just pissed I missed that when putting the motor in. I’m pretty confident that solved the issue but I’m not sure yet because it was dark and there’s no tag on the car so I didn’t take it for a drive. Tomorrow I will see if it smokes and how it drives [img]blob:https://honda-tech.com/e6fb9b2b-0162-4b04-84e5-af1a83cf3f26[/img]Smaller line with no hose clamp was the one that didn’t go anywhere. Not really sure what it is that it goes to but it seems to run better.

tony_2018

Suppose to go to the canistor

mk378

Can't see the picture.

If it has a firewall mounted MAP sensor it's important its hose has to be hooked up.

If you're still getting IAT code with the plug in the right place (confirmed by wire color), test the sensor with an ohmmeter.

tony_2018

looks to me like he's trying to link another image from honda-tech.

collinkuhn1

I copy and pasted the image is probably why it didn’t show. The hose goes to a Y and then to the charcoal canister I believe