I need to make my exhaust shut up!!! too loud
08-21-2007, 07:27 PM
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I need to make my exhaust shut up!!! too loud
I have a full 3 inch exhaust from the headers back. Well its just a pipe, no muffler,cat,resonator blah blah blah.
I have a fully built gsr motor and am gonna boost it this winter. but for now its too loud and i know im loosing back pressure, so what can i do, i want it to basically be dead silent.
I was thinking a glass pack resonator, a stock cat off a truck that comes stock with 3 inch piping, and a vibrant muffler or making a stock eclipse gt muffler work. Any ideas suggestions, parts i should use?
thanks
Nabeel
I have a fully built gsr motor and am gonna boost it this winter. but for now its too loud and i know im loosing back pressure, so what can i do, i want it to basically be dead silent.
I was thinking a glass pack resonator, a stock cat off a truck that comes stock with 3 inch piping, and a vibrant muffler or making a stock eclipse gt muffler work. Any ideas suggestions, parts i should use?
thanks
Nabeel
08-21-2007, 07:44 PM
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Re: (nix94delsol)
If you have a stock motor you should really go back to the stock or close to stock exhaust diameter. You'll gain all that torque you lost by having a 3" pipe. Not that you had much to begin with, but hey.
08-21-2007, 07:50 PM
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Re: (ek forever guy)
A 3in. exhaust does nothing for a stock car, it in fact, is slightly detrimental to the HP/TQ output.. You're losing lower end TQ and HP, not to mention a ****-load of back-pressure which you need.. Go with 2.5 for now, the 2.5 inch exhaust systems are good up to 300HP. 
08-21-2007, 07:59 PM
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Re: (ke98248)
If you're planning to boost soon, just go with a cheap twin-loop off eBay. It will quiet your car back down to a really good sound, and it doesn't look bad. I have it on my car, got it for $40 because my exhaust was way too loud with my Apex'i N1. I've taken the N1 off until I can install my turbo, and it is pretty damn good.
08-21-2007, 08:04 PM
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Re: (BlackoutVTi)
A lot of people mistakingly believe that once they boost their car, that they need 3 inch exhaust setups, or larger, but that's really unnecessary and won't help performance until you reach past ~275WHP.
Read this, it's actually pretty interesting:
This thread was brought to my attention by a friend of mine in hopes of shedding some light on the issue of exhaust size selection for turbocharged vehicles. Most of the facts have been covered already. FWIW I'm an turbocharger development engineer for Garrett Engine Boosting Systems.
N/A cars: As most of you know, the design of turbo exhaust systems runs counter to exhaust design for n/a vehicles. N/A cars utilize exhaust velocity (not backpressure) in the collector to aid in scavenging other cylinders during the blowdown process. It just so happens that to get the appropriate velocity, you have to squeeze down the diameter of the discharge of the collector (aka the exhaust), which also induces backpressure. The backpressure is an undesirable byproduct of the desire to have a certain degree of exhaust velocity. Go too big, and you lose velocity and its associated beneficial scavenging effect. Too small and the backpressure skyrockets, more than offsetting any gain made by scavenging. There is a happy medium here.
For turbo cars, you throw all that out the window. You want the exhaust velocity to be high upstream of the turbine (i.e. in the header). You'll notice that primaries of turbo headers are smaller diameter than those of an n/a car of two-thirds the horsepower. The idea is to get the exhaust velocity up quickly, to get the turbo spooling as early as possible. Here, getting the boost up early is a much more effective way to torque than playing with tuned primary lengths and scavenging. The scavenging effects are small compared to what you'd get if you just got boost sooner instead. You have a turbo; you want boost. Just don't go so small on the header's primary diameter that you choke off the high end.
Downstream of the turbine (aka the turboback exhaust), you want the least backpressure possible. No ifs, ands, or buts. Stick a Hoover on the tailpipe if you can. The general rule of "larger is better" (to the point of diminishing returns) of turboback exhausts is valid. Here, the idea is to minimize the pressure downstream of the turbine in order to make the most effective use of the pressure that is being generated upstream of the turbine. Remember, a turbine operates via a pressure ratio. For a given turbine inlet pressure, you will get the highest pressure ratio across the turbine when you have the lowest possible discharge pressure. This means the turbine is able to do the most amount of work possible (i.e. drive the compressor and make boost) with the available inlet pressure.
Again, less pressure downstream of the turbine is goodness. This approach minimizes the time-to-boost (maximizes boost response) and will improve engine VE throughout the rev range.
As for 2.5" vs. 3.0", the "best" turboback exhaust depends on the amount of flow, or horsepower. At 250 hp, 2.5" is fine. Going to 3" at this power level won't get you much, if anything, other than a louder exhaust note. 300 hp and you're definitely suboptimal with 2.5". For 400-450 hp, even 3" is on the small side."
"As for the geometry of the exhaust at the turbine discharge, the most optimal configuration would be a gradual increase in diameter from the turbine's exducer to the desired exhaust diameter-- via a straight conical diffuser of 7-12° included angle (to minimize flow separation and skin friction losses) mounted right at the turbine discharge. Many turbochargers found in diesels have this diffuser section cast right into the turbine housing. A hyperbolic increase in diameter (like a trumpet snorkus) is theoretically ideal but I've never seen one in use (and doubt it would be measurably superior to a straight diffuser). The wastegate flow would be via a completely divorced (separated from the main turbine discharge flow) dumptube. Due the realities of packaging, cost, and emissions compliance this config is rarely possible on street cars. You will, however, see this type of layout on dedicated race vehicles.
A large "bellmouth" config which combines the turbine discharge and wastegate flow (without a divider between the two) is certainly better than the compromised stock routing, but not as effective as the above.
If an integrated exhaust (non-divorced wastegate flow) is required, keep the wastegate flow separate from the main turbine discharge flow for ~12-18" before reintroducing it. This will minimize the impact on turbine efficiency-- the introduction of the wastegate flow disrupts the flow field of the main turbine discharge flow.
Necking the exhaust down to a suboptimal diameter is never a good idea, but if it is necessary, doing it further downstream is better than doing it close to the turbine discharge since it will minimize the exhaust's contribution to backpressure. Better yet: don't neck down the exhaust at all.
Also, the temperature of the exhaust coming out of a cat is higher than the inlet temperature, due to the exothermic oxidation of unburned hydrocarbons in the cat. So the total heat loss (and density increase) of the gases as it travels down the exhaust is not as prominent as it seems.
Another thing to keep in mind is that cylinder scavenging takes place where the flows from separate cylinders merge (i.e. in the collector). There is no such thing as cylinder scavenging downstream of the turbine, and hence, no reason to desire high exhaust velocity here. You will only introduce unwanted backpressure.
Other things you can do (in addition to choosing an appropriate diameter) to minimize exhaust backpressure in a turboback exhaust are: avoid crush-bent tubes (use mandrel bends); avoid tight-radius turns (keep it as straight as possible); avoid step changes in diameter; avoid "cheated" radii (cuts that are non-perpendicular); use a high flow cat; use a straight-thru perforated core muffler... etc."
"Comparing the two bellmouth designs, I've never seen either one so I can only speculate. But based on your description, and assuming neither of them have a divider wall/tongue between the turbine discharge and wg dump, I'd venture that you'd be hard pressed to measure a difference between the two. The more gradual taper intuitively appears more desirable, but it's likely that it's beyond the point of diminishing returns. Either one sounds like it will improve the wastegate's discharge coefficient over the stock config, which will constitute the single biggest difference. This will allow more control over boost creep. Neither is as optimal as the divorced wastegate flow arrangement, however.
There's more to it, though-- if a larger bellmouth is excessively large right at the turbine discharge (a large step diameter increase), there will be an unrecoverable dump loss that will contribute to backpressure. This is why a gradual increase in diameter, like the conical diffuser mentioned earlier, is desirable at the turbine discharge.
As for primary lengths on turbo headers, it is advantageous to use equal-length primaries to time the arrival of the pulses at the turbine equally and to keep cylinder reversion balanced across all cylinders. This will improve boost response and the engine's VE. Equal-length is often difficult to achieve due to tight packaging, fabrication difficulty, and the desire to have runners of the shortest possible length."
"Here's a worked example (simplified) of how larger exhausts help turbo cars:
Say you have a turbo operating at a turbine pressure ratio (aka expansion ratio) of 1.8:1. You have a small turboback exhaust that contributes, say, 10 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge at redline. The total backpressure seen by the engine (upstream of the turbine) in this case is:
(14.5 +10)*1.8 = 44.1 psia = 29.6 psig total backpressure
So here, the turbine contributed 19.6 psig of backpressure to the total.
Now you slap on a proper low-backpressure, big turboback exhaust. Same turbo, same boost, etc. You measure 3 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge. In this case the engine sees just 17 psig total backpressure! And the turbine's contribution to the total backpressure is reduced to 14 psig (note: this is 5.6 psig lower than its contribution in the "small turboback" case).
So in the end, the engine saw a reduction in backpressure of 12.6 psig when you swapped turbobacks in this example. This reduction in backpressure is where all the engine's VE gains come from.
This is why larger exhausts make such big gains on nearly all stock turbo cars-- the turbine compounds the downstream backpressure via its expansion ratio. This is also why bigger turbos make more power at a given boost level-- they improve engine VE by operating at lower turbine expansion ratios for a given boost level.
As you can see, the backpressure penalty of running a too-small exhaust (like 2.5" for 350 hp) will vary depending on the match. At a given power level, a smaller turbo will generally be operating at a higher turbine pressure ratio and so will actually make the engine more sensitive to the backpressure downstream of the turbine than a larger turbine/turbo would. As for output temperatures, I'm not sure I understand the question. Are you referring to compressor outlet temperatures?
The advantage to the bellmouth setup from the wg's perspective is that it allows a less torturous path for the bypassed gases to escape. This makes it more effective in bypassing gases for a given pressure differential and wg valve position. Think of it as improving the VE of the wastegate. If you have a very compromised wg discharge routing, under some conditions the wg may not be able bypass enough flow to control boost, even when wide open. So the gases go through the turbine instead of the wg, and boost creeps up.
The downside to a bellmouth is that the wg flow still dumps right into the turbine discharge. A divider wall would be beneficial here. And, as mentioned earlier, if you go too big on the bellmouth and the turbine discharge flow sees a rapid area change (regardless of whether the wg flow is being introduced there or not), you will incur a backpressure penalty right at the site of the step. This is why you want gradual area changes in your exhaust.
Read this, it's actually pretty interesting:
This thread was brought to my attention by a friend of mine in hopes of shedding some light on the issue of exhaust size selection for turbocharged vehicles. Most of the facts have been covered already. FWIW I'm an turbocharger development engineer for Garrett Engine Boosting Systems.
N/A cars: As most of you know, the design of turbo exhaust systems runs counter to exhaust design for n/a vehicles. N/A cars utilize exhaust velocity (not backpressure) in the collector to aid in scavenging other cylinders during the blowdown process. It just so happens that to get the appropriate velocity, you have to squeeze down the diameter of the discharge of the collector (aka the exhaust), which also induces backpressure. The backpressure is an undesirable byproduct of the desire to have a certain degree of exhaust velocity. Go too big, and you lose velocity and its associated beneficial scavenging effect. Too small and the backpressure skyrockets, more than offsetting any gain made by scavenging. There is a happy medium here.
For turbo cars, you throw all that out the window. You want the exhaust velocity to be high upstream of the turbine (i.e. in the header). You'll notice that primaries of turbo headers are smaller diameter than those of an n/a car of two-thirds the horsepower. The idea is to get the exhaust velocity up quickly, to get the turbo spooling as early as possible. Here, getting the boost up early is a much more effective way to torque than playing with tuned primary lengths and scavenging. The scavenging effects are small compared to what you'd get if you just got boost sooner instead. You have a turbo; you want boost. Just don't go so small on the header's primary diameter that you choke off the high end.
Downstream of the turbine (aka the turboback exhaust), you want the least backpressure possible. No ifs, ands, or buts. Stick a Hoover on the tailpipe if you can. The general rule of "larger is better" (to the point of diminishing returns) of turboback exhausts is valid. Here, the idea is to minimize the pressure downstream of the turbine in order to make the most effective use of the pressure that is being generated upstream of the turbine. Remember, a turbine operates via a pressure ratio. For a given turbine inlet pressure, you will get the highest pressure ratio across the turbine when you have the lowest possible discharge pressure. This means the turbine is able to do the most amount of work possible (i.e. drive the compressor and make boost) with the available inlet pressure.
Again, less pressure downstream of the turbine is goodness. This approach minimizes the time-to-boost (maximizes boost response) and will improve engine VE throughout the rev range.
As for 2.5" vs. 3.0", the "best" turboback exhaust depends on the amount of flow, or horsepower. At 250 hp, 2.5" is fine. Going to 3" at this power level won't get you much, if anything, other than a louder exhaust note. 300 hp and you're definitely suboptimal with 2.5". For 400-450 hp, even 3" is on the small side."
"As for the geometry of the exhaust at the turbine discharge, the most optimal configuration would be a gradual increase in diameter from the turbine's exducer to the desired exhaust diameter-- via a straight conical diffuser of 7-12° included angle (to minimize flow separation and skin friction losses) mounted right at the turbine discharge. Many turbochargers found in diesels have this diffuser section cast right into the turbine housing. A hyperbolic increase in diameter (like a trumpet snorkus) is theoretically ideal but I've never seen one in use (and doubt it would be measurably superior to a straight diffuser). The wastegate flow would be via a completely divorced (separated from the main turbine discharge flow) dumptube. Due the realities of packaging, cost, and emissions compliance this config is rarely possible on street cars. You will, however, see this type of layout on dedicated race vehicles.
A large "bellmouth" config which combines the turbine discharge and wastegate flow (without a divider between the two) is certainly better than the compromised stock routing, but not as effective as the above.
If an integrated exhaust (non-divorced wastegate flow) is required, keep the wastegate flow separate from the main turbine discharge flow for ~12-18" before reintroducing it. This will minimize the impact on turbine efficiency-- the introduction of the wastegate flow disrupts the flow field of the main turbine discharge flow.
Necking the exhaust down to a suboptimal diameter is never a good idea, but if it is necessary, doing it further downstream is better than doing it close to the turbine discharge since it will minimize the exhaust's contribution to backpressure. Better yet: don't neck down the exhaust at all.
Also, the temperature of the exhaust coming out of a cat is higher than the inlet temperature, due to the exothermic oxidation of unburned hydrocarbons in the cat. So the total heat loss (and density increase) of the gases as it travels down the exhaust is not as prominent as it seems.
Another thing to keep in mind is that cylinder scavenging takes place where the flows from separate cylinders merge (i.e. in the collector). There is no such thing as cylinder scavenging downstream of the turbine, and hence, no reason to desire high exhaust velocity here. You will only introduce unwanted backpressure.
Other things you can do (in addition to choosing an appropriate diameter) to minimize exhaust backpressure in a turboback exhaust are: avoid crush-bent tubes (use mandrel bends); avoid tight-radius turns (keep it as straight as possible); avoid step changes in diameter; avoid "cheated" radii (cuts that are non-perpendicular); use a high flow cat; use a straight-thru perforated core muffler... etc."
"Comparing the two bellmouth designs, I've never seen either one so I can only speculate. But based on your description, and assuming neither of them have a divider wall/tongue between the turbine discharge and wg dump, I'd venture that you'd be hard pressed to measure a difference between the two. The more gradual taper intuitively appears more desirable, but it's likely that it's beyond the point of diminishing returns. Either one sounds like it will improve the wastegate's discharge coefficient over the stock config, which will constitute the single biggest difference. This will allow more control over boost creep. Neither is as optimal as the divorced wastegate flow arrangement, however.
There's more to it, though-- if a larger bellmouth is excessively large right at the turbine discharge (a large step diameter increase), there will be an unrecoverable dump loss that will contribute to backpressure. This is why a gradual increase in diameter, like the conical diffuser mentioned earlier, is desirable at the turbine discharge.
As for primary lengths on turbo headers, it is advantageous to use equal-length primaries to time the arrival of the pulses at the turbine equally and to keep cylinder reversion balanced across all cylinders. This will improve boost response and the engine's VE. Equal-length is often difficult to achieve due to tight packaging, fabrication difficulty, and the desire to have runners of the shortest possible length."
"Here's a worked example (simplified) of how larger exhausts help turbo cars:
Say you have a turbo operating at a turbine pressure ratio (aka expansion ratio) of 1.8:1. You have a small turboback exhaust that contributes, say, 10 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge at redline. The total backpressure seen by the engine (upstream of the turbine) in this case is:
(14.5 +10)*1.8 = 44.1 psia = 29.6 psig total backpressure
So here, the turbine contributed 19.6 psig of backpressure to the total.
Now you slap on a proper low-backpressure, big turboback exhaust. Same turbo, same boost, etc. You measure 3 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge. In this case the engine sees just 17 psig total backpressure! And the turbine's contribution to the total backpressure is reduced to 14 psig (note: this is 5.6 psig lower than its contribution in the "small turboback" case).
So in the end, the engine saw a reduction in backpressure of 12.6 psig when you swapped turbobacks in this example. This reduction in backpressure is where all the engine's VE gains come from.
This is why larger exhausts make such big gains on nearly all stock turbo cars-- the turbine compounds the downstream backpressure via its expansion ratio. This is also why bigger turbos make more power at a given boost level-- they improve engine VE by operating at lower turbine expansion ratios for a given boost level.
As you can see, the backpressure penalty of running a too-small exhaust (like 2.5" for 350 hp) will vary depending on the match. At a given power level, a smaller turbo will generally be operating at a higher turbine pressure ratio and so will actually make the engine more sensitive to the backpressure downstream of the turbine than a larger turbine/turbo would. As for output temperatures, I'm not sure I understand the question. Are you referring to compressor outlet temperatures?
The advantage to the bellmouth setup from the wg's perspective is that it allows a less torturous path for the bypassed gases to escape. This makes it more effective in bypassing gases for a given pressure differential and wg valve position. Think of it as improving the VE of the wastegate. If you have a very compromised wg discharge routing, under some conditions the wg may not be able bypass enough flow to control boost, even when wide open. So the gases go through the turbine instead of the wg, and boost creeps up.
The downside to a bellmouth is that the wg flow still dumps right into the turbine discharge. A divider wall would be beneficial here. And, as mentioned earlier, if you go too big on the bellmouth and the turbine discharge flow sees a rapid area change (regardless of whether the wg flow is being introduced there or not), you will incur a backpressure penalty right at the site of the step. This is why you want gradual area changes in your exhaust.
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08-21-2007, 08:12 PM
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Re: (BlackoutVTi)
Not my writing.. I found it it online, and it was quoted by Jay Kavanaugh, a turbosystems engineer at Garret.
I don't know that much about exhausts, haha.
I don't know that much about exhausts, haha.
08-21-2007, 08:12 PM
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Re: I need to make my exhaust shut up!!! too loud (B18Nibbs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Nibbs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a full 3 inch exhaust from the headers back. Well its just a pipe, no muffler,cat,resonator blah blah blah.
I have a fully built gsr motor and am gonna boost it this winter. but for now its too loud and i know im loosing back pressure, so what can i do, i want it to basically be dead silent.
Nabeel</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can not believe you asked this.
I have a fully built gsr motor and am gonna boost it this winter. but for now its too loud and i know im loosing back pressure, so what can i do, i want it to basically be dead silent.
Nabeel</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can not believe you asked this.
08-22-2007, 04:59 PM
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Re: I need to make my exhaust shut up!!! too loud (gsxr1k05)
hahah okay let me be just a little bit more clearer. Firstly its a fully built gsr motor. Secondly in two months i will be boosting with a pt sc63, which will make close to 600whp at the crank hopefully.
Anyways i wanted to know if anyone could recommend me what cat i should use or what resonator and what muffler.
I dont know much places that have a cat/res/muffler for a 3inch pipe. My car is louder then most boosted cars, its sounds amazing though, nothing like most hondas. When i hit vtec it sounds like a machine gun. But lmk
thanks
Nabeel
Anyways i wanted to know if anyone could recommend me what cat i should use or what resonator and what muffler.
I dont know much places that have a cat/res/muffler for a 3inch pipe. My car is louder then most boosted cars, its sounds amazing though, nothing like most hondas. When i hit vtec it sounds like a machine gun. But lmk
thanks
Nabeel
08-22-2007, 05:05 PM
#12
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Re: I need to make my exhaust shut up!!! too loud (B18Nibbs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Nibbs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hahah okay let me be just a little bit more clearer. Firstly its a fully built gsr motor. Secondly in two months i will be boosting with a pt sc63, which will make close to 600whp at the crank hopefully.
Anyways i wanted to know if anyone could recommend me what cat i should use or what resonator and what muffler.
I dont know much places that have a cat/res/muffler for a 3inch pipe. My car is louder then most boosted cars, its sounds amazing though, nothing like most hondas. When i hit vtec it sounds like a machine gun. But lmk
thanks
Nabeel
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just go to a muffler shop, or to some kind of performance shop that can bend exhausts and get one made.
As for a cat off a truck, that just doesn't seem too smart, unless you're really tight for cash. Either get a high flow cat (Random Technology is good stuff) or just use a test pipe.
Or you could search online and see if there's a company that makes 3" exhausts for Hondas.
EDIT: I don't know what kind of car you have, so I just ebay'ed 3" Honda exhaust and came up with this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
Anyways i wanted to know if anyone could recommend me what cat i should use or what resonator and what muffler.
I dont know much places that have a cat/res/muffler for a 3inch pipe. My car is louder then most boosted cars, its sounds amazing though, nothing like most hondas. When i hit vtec it sounds like a machine gun. But lmk
thanks
Nabeel
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just go to a muffler shop, or to some kind of performance shop that can bend exhausts and get one made.
As for a cat off a truck, that just doesn't seem too smart, unless you're really tight for cash. Either get a high flow cat (Random Technology is good stuff) or just use a test pipe.
Or you could search online and see if there's a company that makes 3" exhausts for Hondas.
EDIT: I don't know what kind of car you have, so I just ebay'ed 3" Honda exhaust and came up with this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
08-22-2007, 06:25 PM
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Re: I need to make my exhaust shut up!!! too loud (B18Nibbs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Nibbs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hahah okay let me be just a little bit more clearer. Firstly its a fully built gsr motor. Secondly in two months i will be boosting with a pt sc63, which will make close to 600whp at the crank hopefully.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont mean to be a dick but how do u make 600whp at the crank. Don't u mean Brake HP? BHP
</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont mean to be a dick but how do u make 600whp at the crank. Don't u mean Brake HP? BHP
08-23-2007, 09:49 AM
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Re: I need to make my exhaust shut up!!! too loud (ek forever guy)
sorry ment flywheel, but the sc63 is rated at 700hp at the flywheel, so im hoping to make somewhere close to 600.
but a test pipe is as good as having no cat when it comes to sound lol...but ill go to an exhaust shop to have it checked out.
thanks
nabeel
but a test pipe is as good as having no cat when it comes to sound lol...but ill go to an exhaust shop to have it checked out.
thanks
nabeel
08-23-2007, 11:30 AM
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Thats good turbo info right there. Having owned a 300zxT that i blew up i concur with everything he said.
600hp turbo honda huh. Sounds like alot of lag to me, and very unblanced. I recommend getting a good boost controller like HKS. My HKS EVCIII with fuzzy logic did a great job keeping the tirespin, under boost, down on my 12 psi 300zxT.
600hp turbo honda huh. Sounds like alot of lag to me, and very unblanced. I recommend getting a good boost controller like HKS. My HKS EVCIII with fuzzy logic did a great job keeping the tirespin, under boost, down on my 12 psi 300zxT.
08-23-2007, 06:00 PM
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Re: (95vxtealhatch)
Spool starts at 4k but goes all thru 9200rpm, why would i need a boost controler when i have ems? But alot of honda guys run the sc61, the sc63 is bigger, the guy at tdautowerkes recommended it to me. go on youtube and type in sc63 it will bring up one video of a 2.0L type r motor in a civic make 400whp at 10psi. go on percesions website and look up sc63. But this thread can be closed im getting my exhaust fixed next week
thanks for your help
Nabeel
thanks for your help
Nabeel
08-23-2007, 07:10 PM
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Re: (B18Nibbs)
forget the cat. with all this supposed hp you dont need it anyhow. if you drive your car straight piped im sure you cqan live without a cat. exhaust in my opinion go with a twin loop. it would be cool. and would make it a litlle quieter.
08-23-2007, 07:19 PM
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Re: I need to make my exhaust shut up!!! too loud (B18Nibbs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Nibbs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hahah okay let me be just a little bit more clearer. Firstly its a fully built gsr motor. Secondly in two months i will be boosting with a pt sc63, which will make close to 600whp at the crank hopefully.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Okaaaaaayyyy...
Soooooo...
At that point--when you have this supposed 600bhp engine in your car--do you really think it's going to be remotely streetable??? That's a full-blown, purpose-built drag motor at that point. I think a quiet exhaust will be the least of your problems.
Please do post a dyno sheet and pics of this nwhen it happens. To say I'm skeptical is an undersatement.
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Okaaaaaayyyy...
Soooooo...
At that point--when you have this supposed 600bhp engine in your car--do you really think it's going to be remotely streetable??? That's a full-blown, purpose-built drag motor at that point. I think a quiet exhaust will be the least of your problems.
Please do post a dyno sheet and pics of this nwhen it happens. To say I'm skeptical is an undersatement.
08-24-2007, 09:59 AM
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Re: I need to make my exhaust shut up!!! too loud (gamby)
firstly heres a guy from honda tech witha sc63
https://honda-tech.com/zero...93337
and this is the turbo scroll all the way to the bottom
http://www.excessiveautosports...2.htm
I dont think a turbo rated at 700hp will have anyproblems putting me at 600whp. A local guy here has a smaller sc61 and put down 524whp in his b18 at 26psi.
And if you read the first time, its getting boosted in a few months, i need to quite it down as of now because i dotn want to get pulled over. There is no point in having a open 3inch pipe when im just N/A. Again i dotn have a turbo yet. The car will be loud but i've seen a honda with a huge garret turbo be quite as stock untill woot when it just sounds like a audi s4 (deep tone).
And why would it be steet legal? if my turbo is boosting at 4krpm i dont think ill have a problem. It wont be driven everyday just on nice days here and there to crusie around in.
s2k muffer does look nice i forgot about it, ill have to look around, theres a few boosted s2k's here and im sure they are not using stock mufflers lol ill ask them for theres.
Thanks
Nabeel
https://honda-tech.com/zero...93337
and this is the turbo scroll all the way to the bottom
http://www.excessiveautosports...2.htm
I dont think a turbo rated at 700hp will have anyproblems putting me at 600whp. A local guy here has a smaller sc61 and put down 524whp in his b18 at 26psi.
And if you read the first time, its getting boosted in a few months, i need to quite it down as of now because i dotn want to get pulled over. There is no point in having a open 3inch pipe when im just N/A. Again i dotn have a turbo yet. The car will be loud but i've seen a honda with a huge garret turbo be quite as stock untill woot when it just sounds like a audi s4 (deep tone).
And why would it be steet legal? if my turbo is boosting at 4krpm i dont think ill have a problem. It wont be driven everyday just on nice days here and there to crusie around in.
s2k muffer does look nice i forgot about it, ill have to look around, theres a few boosted s2k's here and im sure they are not using stock mufflers lol ill ask them for theres.
Thanks
Nabeel
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