Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I have billet motor mounts and the inserts are torn and actually missing on the one side of a couple of them. Long story short, they came with the swap and I used them.

I'm looking to get new mounts because these are causing issues now.

Looking at innovative steel/billet mounts. Is there a difference in power they can handle? I'm only planning on making 300hp~. I've read mixed information on this part.

I would like to go with 75A Steel innovative motor mounts. Just want to make sure that's a decent choice.

1989 Hatch
B16A turbo
Cable trans

Thanks.

Tippyman

If youre getting innovative poly mounts it is a question if whether of not you want pretty shiny billet or not. I got steel cause it was cheaper and did the same job. If you get solid mounts you have to get billet because it's just all they offer. Plus a solid hunk of steel would be really heavy lol.

diatibe24

I went with Avid racing tuner series which are 62a and they are decent mounts. I was looking to go maybe a little stiffer but actually not sure its needed. After looking into it at my power level I think anymore would be OK just as long as it wasn't more money. I do not feel stiffer would yield much if any real gain in anything. I am putting down 305whp now myself.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I'll go steel then. Pretty much decided. 60A vs 75A inserts hasn't really crossed my mind but I was going to go slightly stiffer than what I supposedly have now.

Thanks of the power confirmation too diatibe24. I'm not doing anything crazy, so I was hoping that was the case.

Tippyman

It's not so much how much power you make, it's more to do with what you do with the power. If you're launching on slicks (or radials for that matter) at the drag strip, anything that allows movement will allow stuff to break more readily.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I'm still on street tires with hopes of just upgrading the rubber to something more track oriented (still DOT legal) for events. Drag racing is definitely the intended purpose.

Are you saying billet will move less than steel?

Tippyman

No, I'm saying that poly will move more than solid. I had 90a, and my up-pipe started to hit the hole in my hood after a while. You could actually see a bit of light on one side of the rear mount where the poly had been beat down launch after launch. It lasted about 4 years of street/track driving though, so it did its job in my opinion.

As for tires, get slicks. Swap wheels at the track. Real drag slicks are the single best thing you can do to your car for drag racing. DOT "slicks" are heavy. Real slicks are so much lighter and they cost the same as DOT equivalent ones anyway. You'll break less and go faster. Win win.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Okay, I understand what you were saying now. I think poly will be fine. I don't track the car very often. I definitely will just pick up some slicks and drag them around for track days.

Thanks, this thread has been helpful.

One last question. My current mounts have a gap between the poly insert and the stock motor mount 'area'. I don't know what to call it. Is that okay? Or should the bushing fill the entire area?

Tippyman

You mean the vehicles "bracket" is wider than the mount?

Tightening the bolt down should pull it in unless it's real bad.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Yes, the 'bracket' is wider than the motor mount. It's pretty noticeable. The factory motor mounts filled the bracket. I'd say it was probably half an inch or so. Do they make 'inserts' for situations like that? I'll search and see what I can find. I thought I'd mention it for now.

Tippyman

Washers could be a ghetto method but a piece of 3/16" steel lining both insides of the mount bracket would be better.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

We have plate steel at work. I'll grab some different thickness. I have a Christmas tree bit at home so I should be able to fab something up.

Thanks again.

diatibe24

Maybe try something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121234829067...84.m1423.l2649

Tippyman

Lol no