signs of a bad throttle body
#1
Trial User
Thread Starter
signs of a bad throttle body
My car is having some hesitation that has started up within the last few days.
I had a similar issue before, but that was from my intake manifold not being torqued down properly.
When the car is cold there is no problem. After the car is warmed up it starts having issues.
At lower rpm's and part throttle the engine will bog down when I am trying to accelerate.
any guesses?
I had a similar issue before, but that was from my intake manifold not being torqued down properly.
When the car is cold there is no problem. After the car is warmed up it starts having issues.
At lower rpm's and part throttle the engine will bog down when I am trying to accelerate.
any guesses?
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: signs of a bad throttle body (Bob-DC2)
any cel?
check your ignition system. my car use to bog down at lower rpm and it sounds like I was running on three cylinders. I found out my distributor was fried. this is worst case senario though. also check your IACV and the fast idle thermo valve (right below the throttle body)
check your ignition system. my car use to bog down at lower rpm and it sounds like I was running on three cylinders. I found out my distributor was fried. this is worst case senario though. also check your IACV and the fast idle thermo valve (right below the throttle body)
#4
Trial User
Thread Starter
Re: signs of a bad throttle body (sleeperciv)
I havent checked timing yet
But, after 4k rpm it runs fine
any portion of vtec runs fine as well 5k-9k
no cel's
how do i check IACV and idle thermo valve to make sure it is working without a hitch?
But, after 4k rpm it runs fine
any portion of vtec runs fine as well 5k-9k
no cel's
how do i check IACV and idle thermo valve to make sure it is working without a hitch?
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: signs of a bad throttle body (Bob-DC2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob-DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I havent checked timing yet
But, after 4k rpm it runs fine
any portion of vtec runs fine as well 5k-9k
no cel's
how do i check IACV and idle thermo valve to make sure it is working without a hitch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
on the fast idle thermo; start the car cold first then in the throttle body you should see a small hole on the lower left corner. place your finger over that hole, you should feel a suction effect. now once the car is at normal temperture, do the same thing you shouldn't be any suction; mean your fast idle is working.
on the IACV this is according to the helms manual troubleshooting: if you don't have any cel with the engine running and the accelerator pedal released, disconnect the 2P connector from the IAC valve. Is there a reduction in engine rpm?
No= substitute a known-good IAC valve and retest.
yes=intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. check for poor connections or loose wires at IAC valve and ecu. or my way just jump A9 with A23 you should hear a clicking sound from the IACV, if you hear it, it's good.
Modified by sleeperciv at 5:06 PM 4/18/2003
But, after 4k rpm it runs fine
any portion of vtec runs fine as well 5k-9k
no cel's
how do i check IACV and idle thermo valve to make sure it is working without a hitch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
on the fast idle thermo; start the car cold first then in the throttle body you should see a small hole on the lower left corner. place your finger over that hole, you should feel a suction effect. now once the car is at normal temperture, do the same thing you shouldn't be any suction; mean your fast idle is working.
on the IACV this is according to the helms manual troubleshooting: if you don't have any cel with the engine running and the accelerator pedal released, disconnect the 2P connector from the IAC valve. Is there a reduction in engine rpm?
No= substitute a known-good IAC valve and retest.
yes=intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. check for poor connections or loose wires at IAC valve and ecu. or my way just jump A9 with A23 you should hear a clicking sound from the IACV, if you hear it, it's good.
Modified by sleeperciv at 5:06 PM 4/18/2003
#6
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Re: signs of a bad throttle body (sleeperciv)
I had identical problems when my fuel pump crapped out and dropped my fuel pressure lower than normal. The bottom half of the rpm band was sluggish and ran like crap, the upper portion ran better because the ecu was making it toss in more fuel.
check and make sure your fuel pressure is good. (Fuel filter may be clogged, injectors too, and if neither of those are bad, check the fuel pump.)
check and make sure your fuel pressure is good. (Fuel filter may be clogged, injectors too, and if neither of those are bad, check the fuel pump.)
#7
Trial User
Thread Starter
Re: signs of a bad throttle body (Black Light)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black Light »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had identical problems when my fuel pump crapped out and dropped my fuel pressure lower than normal. The bottom half of the rpm band was sluggish and ran like crap, the upper portion ran better because the ecu was making it toss in more fuel.
check and make sure your fuel pressure is good. (Fuel filter may be clogged, injectors too, and if neither of those are bad, check the fuel pump.)</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow thanks for both of the posts
injectors are good, just put new rc310 10k miles ago.
fuel filter only has 1k miles on it
I guess its time for a bigger fuel pump.
I just need to play around with my car and my helms. thanks guys
check and make sure your fuel pressure is good. (Fuel filter may be clogged, injectors too, and if neither of those are bad, check the fuel pump.)</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow thanks for both of the posts
injectors are good, just put new rc310 10k miles ago.
fuel filter only has 1k miles on it
I guess its time for a bigger fuel pump.
I just need to play around with my car and my helms. thanks guys
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