General consensus on best paint brand?
#1
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General consensus on best paint brand?
Im in the process of picking up a shell of some sort, dont have my mind made up yet. Long story short, i plan on stripping everything down to bare body, no plastics, glass, and bare engine bay.
Im looking for a very deep green, or the very opposite being white. I really havent made up my mind but im interested in solid colors, no metallic flakes or anything like that.
Here is an example of the green im talking about, actually on a car im considering getting.
There was once a build thread here, where a guy did up an EG6 and used nothing but Nason paint, from primer to clear, all Nason. I cant find that thread anymore but most of it focused on the body work and paint itself, not so much a complete build thread.
So the brands i've heard which are good...
-Nason
-PPG
-Dupont
I'll be converting my garage into a paint booth in the near future. Also will be picking up a Devilbiss gravity feed gun.
Im looking for a very deep green, or the very opposite being white. I really havent made up my mind but im interested in solid colors, no metallic flakes or anything like that.
Here is an example of the green im talking about, actually on a car im considering getting.
There was once a build thread here, where a guy did up an EG6 and used nothing but Nason paint, from primer to clear, all Nason. I cant find that thread anymore but most of it focused on the body work and paint itself, not so much a complete build thread.
So the brands i've heard which are good...
-Nason
-PPG
-Dupont
I'll be converting my garage into a paint booth in the near future. Also will be picking up a Devilbiss gravity feed gun.
#3
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Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
Forgot about house of kolors, thanks. I dont necessarily need the "best" paint, but i dont want to skimp out either.
#7
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Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
Was talking with a buddy the other day at his body shop, he was saying he uses BASF or Dupont. He does a lot of restoration work and custom show cars. He painted rota92's yellow drag car.
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#8
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Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
my gf is trying to get me to go the NHRA route or an old lowrider but i dont know.
#10
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#12
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#13
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Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
Alright i have one last question.
Im abandoning the idea of getting the shell. so i'll be doing all of this to my ef sedan which is my daily.
im looking around for EXACTLY what i'll need from epoxy primer all the way to clear, with everything in between. i keep getting thrown off by the different terminology paint manufacturers use. looking at the paint, HOK seems to have some of the things im looking for.
Anyway, can someone provide me with a list of whats needed? Here are some of the thigns i've heard of but not really sure what it all is, OR if some basecoats have them mixed in with them.
-epoxy primer, non-pourus, helps prevent moisture from getting into the body.
-sealer, prevents primer from "bleeding" into basecoat.
-hardener/reducer...this is where im getting thrown off.
-basecoat, metallic, solid, pearl, acrylic enamel, polyurethayne, kandy (HOK)
-clear
i found this, which is basically a complete "kit" from primer to clear, but the price is only ~$175. other paint companies are charging at least $60 for a quart! this has a gallon!!
Im also not sure which is higher quality, acrylic enamel or urethane.
EDIT: it looks like the above kit does NOT require a "hardener". it contains;
-basecoat
-reducer
-clear
-clear activator
it states what is provided is all you will need to paint the car..minus the primer of course.
Im abandoning the idea of getting the shell. so i'll be doing all of this to my ef sedan which is my daily.
im looking around for EXACTLY what i'll need from epoxy primer all the way to clear, with everything in between. i keep getting thrown off by the different terminology paint manufacturers use. looking at the paint, HOK seems to have some of the things im looking for.
Anyway, can someone provide me with a list of whats needed? Here are some of the thigns i've heard of but not really sure what it all is, OR if some basecoats have them mixed in with them.
-epoxy primer, non-pourus, helps prevent moisture from getting into the body.
-sealer, prevents primer from "bleeding" into basecoat.
-hardener/reducer...this is where im getting thrown off.
-basecoat, metallic, solid, pearl, acrylic enamel, polyurethayne, kandy (HOK)
-clear
i found this, which is basically a complete "kit" from primer to clear, but the price is only ~$175. other paint companies are charging at least $60 for a quart! this has a gallon!!
Im also not sure which is higher quality, acrylic enamel or urethane.
EDIT: it looks like the above kit does NOT require a "hardener". it contains;
-basecoat
-reducer
-clear
-clear activator
it states what is provided is all you will need to paint the car..minus the primer of course.
#14
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Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
you need a catalyzed primer, 2k high build, doesnt matter what brand, if your priming the whole car, you dont need to apply a sealer. I cannot speak for the brand that you posted but hardener is exactly what it sounds like, it hardens the clear, it mixes with the clear, reducer, exactly what it sounds like, reduces the mix down, basecoat only takes reducer, clear coat takes reducer and hardener, depending on the type, will depend on the mixing ratio. 4:1:1 most likely, get mixing cups that can measure ratios. The clear "activator" is hardener, their just wording it differently.
The celery green metallic you posted, the metallic is already in the basecoat, so theres no need to do any extra mixing besides your reducer.
Depending on how much you want to invest in the project will determine what brand and level of quality paint you buy. If you have no experience doing this whatsoever i would avoid house of kolor paint, most of their paints are 3 stage pearls which could be a bit complicated for a beginner. Factory pearls have the pearl mixed in the base. There are many different styles of painting and alot of people do alot of different things, like adding tinting and other flex agents in the clear etc to change the color slightly.
The celery green metallic you posted, the metallic is already in the basecoat, so theres no need to do any extra mixing besides your reducer.
Depending on how much you want to invest in the project will determine what brand and level of quality paint you buy. If you have no experience doing this whatsoever i would avoid house of kolor paint, most of their paints are 3 stage pearls which could be a bit complicated for a beginner. Factory pearls have the pearl mixed in the base. There are many different styles of painting and alot of people do alot of different things, like adding tinting and other flex agents in the clear etc to change the color slightly.
#15
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Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
you need a catalyzed primer, 2k high build, doesnt matter what brand, if your priming the whole car, you dont need to apply a sealer. I cannot speak for the brand that you posted but hardener is exactly what it sounds like, it hardens the clear, it mixes with the clear, reducer, exactly what it sounds like, reduces the mix down, basecoat only takes reducer, clear coat takes reducer and hardener, depending on the type, will depend on the mixing ratio. 4:1:1 most likely, get mixing cups that can measure ratios. The clear "activator" is hardener, their just wording it differently.
The celery green metallic you posted, the metallic is already in the basecoat, so theres no need to do any extra mixing besides your reducer.
Depending on how much you want to invest in the project will determine what brand and level of quality paint you buy. If you have no experience doing this whatsoever i would avoid house of kolor paint, most of their paints are 3 stage pearls which could be a bit complicated for a beginner. Factory pearls have the pearl mixed in the base. There are many different styles of painting and alot of people do alot of different things, like adding tinting and other flex agents in the clear etc to change the color slightly.
The celery green metallic you posted, the metallic is already in the basecoat, so theres no need to do any extra mixing besides your reducer.
Depending on how much you want to invest in the project will determine what brand and level of quality paint you buy. If you have no experience doing this whatsoever i would avoid house of kolor paint, most of their paints are 3 stage pearls which could be a bit complicated for a beginner. Factory pearls have the pearl mixed in the base. There are many different styles of painting and alot of people do alot of different things, like adding tinting and other flex agents in the clear etc to change the color slightly.
#19
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Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
NASON IS JUNK man, unless youd doing a cheap all over paint job, please dont use it. It can be manipuated to look good in the end, but its such a cheap paint for a reason.
nason is the bottom of the line fleet brand that dupont puts out. It has horrible atomization, horrible coverage, and even more terrible matching qualities. You can spray a car with nason 1 day, have to repaint something the next day in the same conditions and it will be a completely different color. Plus the clear is crap and does not lay well at all, has no uv additives and is hard as hell when buffing. Theres a reason you can get an entire Nason spray kit(gallon of paint, gallon of clear and activator) for 140 bucks
Same thing goes for Omni, which is ppgs fleet brand. crap.
We use Dupont Chromabase and Chroamapremier in our shop. It is much more expensive but for good reason. Great coverage, great atomization, great matching quality,a much stabler paint and u.v additives in the clear which is why Dupont offers a lifetime warranty on it against any defects. Sikkens, basf are the only others ones I would use as they are on the same level of quality and properties.
nason is the bottom of the line fleet brand that dupont puts out. It has horrible atomization, horrible coverage, and even more terrible matching qualities. You can spray a car with nason 1 day, have to repaint something the next day in the same conditions and it will be a completely different color. Plus the clear is crap and does not lay well at all, has no uv additives and is hard as hell when buffing. Theres a reason you can get an entire Nason spray kit(gallon of paint, gallon of clear and activator) for 140 bucks
Same thing goes for Omni, which is ppgs fleet brand. crap.
We use Dupont Chromabase and Chroamapremier in our shop. It is much more expensive but for good reason. Great coverage, great atomization, great matching quality,a much stabler paint and u.v additives in the clear which is why Dupont offers a lifetime warranty on it against any defects. Sikkens, basf are the only others ones I would use as they are on the same level of quality and properties.
#20
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Thread Starter
Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
you need a catalyzed primer, 2k high build, doesnt matter what brand, if your priming the whole car, you dont need to apply a sealer. I cannot speak for the brand that you posted but hardener is exactly what it sounds like, it hardens the clear, it mixes with the clear, reducer, exactly what it sounds like, reduces the mix down, basecoat only takes reducer, clear coat takes reducer and hardener, depending on the type, will depend on the mixing ratio. 4:1:1 most likely, get mixing cups that can measure ratios. The clear "activator" is hardener, their just wording it differently.
The celery green metallic you posted, the metallic is already in the basecoat, so theres no need to do any extra mixing besides your reducer.
Depending on how much you want to invest in the project will determine what brand and level of quality paint you buy. If you have no experience doing this whatsoever i would avoid house of kolor paint, most of their paints are 3 stage pearls which could be a bit complicated for a beginner. Factory pearls have the pearl mixed in the base. There are many different styles of painting and alot of people do alot of different things, like adding tinting and other flex agents in the clear etc to change the color slightly.
The celery green metallic you posted, the metallic is already in the basecoat, so theres no need to do any extra mixing besides your reducer.
Depending on how much you want to invest in the project will determine what brand and level of quality paint you buy. If you have no experience doing this whatsoever i would avoid house of kolor paint, most of their paints are 3 stage pearls which could be a bit complicated for a beginner. Factory pearls have the pearl mixed in the base. There are many different styles of painting and alot of people do alot of different things, like adding tinting and other flex agents in the clear etc to change the color slightly.
[QUOTE=usdmEHboy;41361530]My car was painted with sikkens and I love it!
Sick Si dude, paint looks good.
NASON IS JUNK man, unless youd doing a cheap all over paint job, please dont use it. It can be manipuated to look good in the end, but its such a cheap paint for a reason.
nason is the bottom of the line fleet brand that dupont puts out. It has horrible atomization, horrible coverage, and even more terrible matching qualities. You can spray a car with nason 1 day, have to repaint something the next day in the same conditions and it will be a completely different color. Plus the clear is crap and does not lay well at all, has no uv additives and is hard as hell when buffing. Theres a reason you can get an entire Nason spray kit(gallon of paint, gallon of clear and activator) for 140 bucks
Same thing goes for Omni, which is ppgs fleet brand. crap.
We use Dupont Chromabase and Chroamapremier in our shop. It is much more expensive but for good reason. Great coverage, great atomization, great matching quality,a much stabler paint and u.v additives in the clear which is why Dupont offers a lifetime warranty on it against any defects. Sikkens, basf are the only others ones I would use as they are on the same level of quality and properties.
nason is the bottom of the line fleet brand that dupont puts out. It has horrible atomization, horrible coverage, and even more terrible matching qualities. You can spray a car with nason 1 day, have to repaint something the next day in the same conditions and it will be a completely different color. Plus the clear is crap and does not lay well at all, has no uv additives and is hard as hell when buffing. Theres a reason you can get an entire Nason spray kit(gallon of paint, gallon of clear and activator) for 140 bucks
Same thing goes for Omni, which is ppgs fleet brand. crap.
We use Dupont Chromabase and Chroamapremier in our shop. It is much more expensive but for good reason. Great coverage, great atomization, great matching quality,a much stabler paint and u.v additives in the clear which is why Dupont offers a lifetime warranty on it against any defects. Sikkens, basf are the only others ones I would use as they are on the same level of quality and properties.
#21
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Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
[QUOTE=4g4dcruisin;41367113]Wow thanks man. I'll be referring back to this thread when it comes time for me to get started. I've only rattle canned in the past and did the $50 rustoleum job. I havent actually used a paint gun. i dont want to go "all out" for the first time just incase i screw it up. That package above looks so good because its everything i need on the cheaper side, probably the best for now.
If its your first time around you might want to look into getting a Finex 3000, good gun for the money, sharpe makes excellent spray guns.
http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe...e/Finex+FX3000
If your car has the 50 dollar cheap *** job on it, your gona have to sand that all down before you spray any kind of catalyzed paint on your car, otherwise your gona cause it to bubble. You dont need to go to the metal, you just need to get that rustoleum off of there before you do anything.
If its your first time around you might want to look into getting a Finex 3000, good gun for the money, sharpe makes excellent spray guns.
http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe...e/Finex+FX3000
If your car has the 50 dollar cheap *** job on it, your gona have to sand that all down before you spray any kind of catalyzed paint on your car, otherwise your gona cause it to bubble. You dont need to go to the metal, you just need to get that rustoleum off of there before you do anything.
#23
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Thread Starter
Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
[QUOTE=Spawne32;41367164]
the rusoleum is off of there, this was a while ago. Right now i have some Krylon Almond spray paint. Im not sure what exactly the paint is made of but its NOT enamel.
Wow thanks man. I'll be referring back to this thread when it comes time for me to get started. I've only rattle canned in the past and did the $50 rustoleum job. I havent actually used a paint gun. i dont want to go "all out" for the first time just incase i screw it up. That package above looks so good because its everything i need on the cheaper side, probably the best for now.
If its your first time around you might want to look into getting a Finex 3000, good gun for the money, sharpe makes excellent spray guns.
http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe...e/Finex+FX3000
If your car has the 50 dollar cheap *** job on it, your gona have to sand that all down before you spray any kind of catalyzed paint on your car, otherwise your gona cause it to bubble. You dont need to go to the metal, you just need to get that rustoleum off of there before you do anything.
If its your first time around you might want to look into getting a Finex 3000, good gun for the money, sharpe makes excellent spray guns.
http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe...e/Finex+FX3000
If your car has the 50 dollar cheap *** job on it, your gona have to sand that all down before you spray any kind of catalyzed paint on your car, otherwise your gona cause it to bubble. You dont need to go to the metal, you just need to get that rustoleum off of there before you do anything.
#24
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Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
[QUOTE=4g4dcruisin;41367242]if its not automotive paint, buzz it off with the DA, i cannot say for sure whether or not anything you have on there now wont interact with the new paint, your using urethane paint now, not cheap stuff. Everything your gona be applying is catalyzed.
#25
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Re: General consensus on best paint brand?
[QUOTE=Spawne32;41367714]sanding will be no problem, i've become pretty familar with body work over the past few months...here is my sedan by the way.
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