bb1vince

should i convert to obd1?

c.dub

^ Yes convering to OBD-1 would be best for tuning purposes, unless you wanna use a piggyback system, then it is not necessary.

Keep in mind: proper tuning > piggyback.

Get a chipped P28 ECU then get it tuned as already listed (eCtune, Neptune). Go spend the day at a dyno with a good tuner and it will make a world of a difference. Ideally this should be done last once you have all the engine parts built the way you want.

bb1vince

alright coo.

NirVTEC

So what are your plans when you visit the California Ref???
Don't be another idiot that mods the hell out his car, converts to obd1, and then posts on h-t.com on how to pass the Ref.......

Cliffs: You're screwed.

bb1vince

I only asked because I thought its easier to tuned with OBD1 but if I don't have to, I won't. Sorry NirVTEC. I'm a really big noob at this.

ilikehonda

look to sig......n/a h22's are always fun!

NirVTEC

Its for sure easier to tune obd1, but I wanted to give you a heads up. So many people, so much wasted time and money b/c of California's Refs.......
Don't spend a single dollar unless its legal.....

dagle

iTrader: (1)

bb1vince are you from cali? I think you should talk to that one guy Silas, heard he has a bunch of NA stuff leftover from some crazy guy's 4th gen build

NirVTEC

Mind the Ref man........

Bangher4$

It kills the pocket being a n2o ***** dosent it! ugg, i gotta stop it.

thc07 has a horrible story with the refs. he did a legal h22a4 in his ej civic.
had all the sensors, purge, egr, blah blah working 100% with a obd2 p13 ecu and put a P5m sticker on it.(because CA uses alldata, which will not list a p13 as obd2) He would have been the only person to get a bar'd obd2 h series civic in CA, Legally!!! budget cut, dropped the Ref program on his last appointment. Ive yet to see proof of any Obd2 civics with H series. Oh yea, while he was sitting on the curb late at night (took the cops over an hours to finnish his ticket) waiting, he ended up with pneumonia from freezing his a$$ off.
cops just let him freez, didnt give twoshit.

regardless, def keep it in mind, if you get a ref ticket you may be spending lots of money and time. make it sleep... only safe thing to do and still have fun.

nus_dogg

I would do S2P1 or P2 if you're just looking for a weekend DD. The S2P1 should do good for NA DD build. I'm thinking about a set of Type S pistons(11.0:1), H-Beam connecting rods, and S2P1 or 2 cams, but we'll see when the time comes.

But since the OP is looking toward FI, I'd get lower Mahle gold series compression pistons which won't require you to re-sleeve the stock block. It will save you time and money.

bb1vince

thanks for advice guys, being the prelude my only car/transportation. i'll buy everything at once and get everything done at once too of course it will take longer then a day. This plan isn't going on for atleast a few months though, so i am gathering information. What if i told you guys i want to hit about 250whp? the least i wanted was 200. Quick question. will this route require me to pull out motor?

neil23

[QUOTE=.....Skunk2 Stage3??? With ~10.6:1cr??? You must be crazy.........

why's that?

ludeboy22

easier to tune obd1

bb1vince

just keep in mind i'll be spending 3-5gs on this build.

dagle

iTrader: (1)

yeah vince itll require some extensive work. I would plan a week even if everything was in front of me because the runs to the hardware store, researching problems on the fly and all that adds up to days of down time.

The very least that'll be needed to break 200whp is to open the head up to install cams. And to utilize the cams effectively for a 200whp build on a stock block, I think most if not all on here will agree that the valves, springs, and retainers should be upgraded.

for the 4th gen i picked up from ADE, he told me the car made a bit over 200whp when it had a stock block. Crower or Skunk2 cams (he doesnt know, and i haven't bothered to gauge em), supertech valves, springs, and retainers, DTR header, ported IM, and an AEMV2 made 200whp I think.. After the motor blew, he got a darton sleeved block with high comp Arias pistons and H beam rods, forgot what he told me but I think 220+whp was a safe bet for the ~13:1 and bored out block.

The only thing to be wary of when going into mods is to make sure the tune is running well even after the tune. After I finally took the block apart, we (me, my friend, and my machinist) noted that there were several signs of detonation. It was tuned by a very reputable shop on a Hondata S100, but bearing wear, wrist pins, pistons, and mechanical metal parts do not lie. What i bring this up for is to tell you that you should prepare a nest egg after the mods, because stuff like tuning, misc. stuff, and all that will cost more than expected. 3-5k as you said will get burned through quick in car parts.

NirVTEC

[QUOTE=neil23;40336006][QUOTE=.....Skunk2 Stage3??? With ~10.6:1cr??? You must be crazy.........

why's that?[/QUOTE]

If you need to ask.....I can't waste my time answering.

ilikehonda

Better clay that bitch. the type s pisons will stick out of the block by .008 i believe. the type s pistons are quite a bit taller than the stardard pistons. if you want to build something with a large cam and type s pistons you NEED to clay the motor

ilikehonda

and really the s2p2 cams need a lot more compression than the s2p1's. according to skunk2 the min for the p1 is 11:1

NirVTEC

EuroR+S2P2=No problema.
EuroR+JUN=No problema.

12:1cr+S2P3=We have CONTACT!! haha

bigblockh22

Thanks for callin me a pro clown, it is what it is i no what that setup produces i wouldnt be posting usless information chow

NirVTEC

Lets see some Dynos. Even Crower hasn't tested their own cams......
You suggested a header that takes God's will to get after months of waiting as well. Rather than the "pick up the phone & order" SMSP HyTech SSR-DTR.........
Ciao

bigblockh22

stage 2 crower produces 18whp and money gets you anything for example RMF if u gotta the chedder u want it ull get it chow

NirVTEC

Show me an 18whp Dyno.

h22 kid

i didnt say i have 10:6:1... i have a 2.5l h and am going to p&p that sucker. thats what is recommended. plus you could always make the heads flow better. why not just do it if your gonna do a N/a build