tommyistommy

I have a 1995 Prelude Si and I just swapped in a H22A with a jdm p13. My car was prewired for vtec, so I ended up not having to run any wires. When I drove the car for the first time it was running really bad with a CEL for KS and TPS, the TPS was about to fall out so I tightened it. I started the car, no CEL, revved good in neutral, no odd noises, so I took the car out for a spin. About 4-5 minutes into driving, the CEL came on, so I went home and scanned it, KS code again. Once I threw this code the car started to buck if I didn't roll on the throttle slowly, if I jabbed the gas quickly it would buck at any rpm. I used the KS off my h23 and never had any problems with it, but just to be safe I went and purchased a brand new knock sensor. Installed the KS, took the car for a drive, CEL after 4-5 minutes but the car wasn't hesitating or bucking under any throttle even with the CEL on. It was the KS code again. I took the car out, once again, and it felt like I never changed the KS. Bucking/hesitation when I use too much throttle, and the light only comes on once you are driving for a couple minutes. If I leave the car in neutral it will never come on. I have no idea whats going on...my friends say it sounds like I swapped the h23 injectors over and the car is starving for fuel, that could be the case. I did the electrical portion of the swap while my friend did the mechanical, but I could see that happening when the fuel rails were swapped. A couple other people told me it sounds like my ignition timing is off from when I bolted on the h23 external/h22 distributor. I don't know if I described the problem well enough...the car will run good it seems before the light comes on. Vtec engages despite the hesitation/bucking. It almost feels like a backfire but its not...sputtering/hesitation/bucking are all words i'd describe it with. Thanks

street_ride14

make sure your ecu is indeed a jdm p13, my first thought is that you have a different ecu with a basemap for your h22 (thus bypassing your Knock-Sensor).

tommyistommy

how do I know if its a jdm or usdm? I know its a p13 I saw that in the code. KS is pin D3 correct? It appeared to be wired in correctly because I used the same engine harness and all as the car was prewired for vtec. I just took the car for a spin again, if I roll on the throttle slow and smooth I can get to almost full throttle with no hesitation, but its the jabing that really messes it up. I'll recheck the wiring right now

tommyistommy

I've been using a OBD1 scanner to get the codes, and apparently it was a knock sensor circuit code. I rewired the knock sensor completely, same code at the same time. I now think its my timing, me and my friend are going to try that tomorrow. I don't know if that's it, but I have a feeling the distributor is messed up some how. If anybody has any suggestions to check let me know asap. UPDATE. we did the ignition timing, it wasn't that. I'm going to a you-pull it yard today to get different injectors. If it's not that it must be the timing belt, correct? My friend did the timing belt but its possible that its off...

Luisito825

I'm having the exact same problem. Are you using a shielded wire for your knock sensor?

iwanttokillgod

i thought jdm p13's didnt have a knock sensor

tommyistommy

I was using the same engine harness as my h23 which had no problems but yes I am when I rewired it aswell. My injectors were the correct size, thats ruled out of the equation. The only thing it can possibly be is my engine is infact knocking, or my timing belt is off by a couple teeth. I am having the timing belt redone if it is not that then my engines knocking and I will be returning this engine. Apparently jdm p13's do infact have a knock sensor, and to check if it was a bad computer I ran my car with the p14 and it picked up a knock even quicker, perhaps due to the p14 running the h22 a little lean, but still. Nobody seems to be able to solve the problem so it has to be the timing belt or real knock at this point. Custom Import Performance is a local import shop here, they do a lot of swaps, and they just said get a p28 with h22 maps. Nobody really wants to solve the problem, they just want to hide it

tommyistommy

I hate to post in this thread again because I have more posts than everyone else combined in here, but here it goes. I took the valve cover off and inspected the timing belt, it is off by 2 teeth. If anybody else did a timing belt before they put their engines in and is getting the same problem as me, its your timing belt. Its simple and all signs led to that, but I'm not a mechanic and I just want to help others if they were having the same problem.