MikesRJ

Can anyone tell me the two wire colors for the AIC Valve (Valve Assy, Electronic Air Control: 36450-P0D-004) on 2001 CR-V SE? I believe the two connectors for the AIC Valve and Power Steering are switched and fried my ECU resistors. Unfortunately, and before installing another ECU, I'd like to verify if those two connectors are in the right spots, but cannot locate a wiring diagram for those two connectors. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

OneBadTurboCRV

Basically someone just went through all this. The first link is the precursor, the second link has the information you seek. I suggest looking through both threads so you don't repeat his mistakes, people tend to swear up and down they "did it right" even though they didn't. Good Luck!

https://honda-tech.com/honda-element...-mind-3258256/

https://honda-tech.com/engine-manage...-pics-3260096/

PS - It's IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) or IAC Valve (Idle Air Control) on most diagrams you will find.

MikesRJ

@OneBadTurboCRV
Ok, so if I read those two threads correctly, the yellow wired plug should be at the IAC valve and the Green wired plug at the Power Steering sensor. Is that correct? If so, I probably have an ECU blown out as I found the green at the IAC and the Yellow at the Power Steering sensor. I just recently had a fairly distant shop do a USDM to JDM swap and the car ran fine 150 miles to home from their shop. It wasn't until the temps dropped a few days later that I noticed a cold start problem where the car wouldn't hold idle until warm, and then would only hold idle at about 600-650RPM. Let me know.

MikesRJ

This one applies as well:
https://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/...ssues-3257060/

OneBadTurboCRV

I already posted that link... you even quoted it in your reply...

All the information you need is provided in the links. I even spelt it out in the link you posted... Good Luck.

MikesRJ

Sorry, put the wrong link up there, now corrected. Thanks for your assistance.

MikesRJ

Found the two cables swapped, ECU burned internally, and the IAC valve not functioning correctly anyway. The IAC was open when it should have been fully closed even though the unit clicked when 12v was supplied. Interestingly enough I also found the throttle body was leaking air at the butterfly shaft. Decided to replace the complete throttle body assembly as well as the ECU and FIT valve. Might as well do the valve adjustments while I'm in there just to be sure all is right. Thanks for the leads. New ECU is already installed, the IAC is here and just waiting for the TB to deliver.

MikesRJ

Interesting how a "simple" engine swap (actually a JDM long block swap), using all of the CR-V's original components, uncovers a myriad of previously unknown issues. I travel about 50k a year for work and the Gen-1 CR-V's are easy to maintain and rather inexpensive on parts if you know where to look and what to look for. I am no auto mechanic by any standard, but I am a Field Service Engineer for an OEM Equipment manufacturer, and this entire process has been a new learning experience for me. After finding a clean copy of the Honda - Dealer Service Manual (DSM), and reading through the pertinent pages of this monstrous ~1400 page volume, I find it very informative, educational, and relatively easy to understand. Things I learned to troubleshoot and fix myself have easily saved me upwards of $3000-4000 had I taken it to a shop to have them trouble-shoot and repair.

- I've had the car for about 4 years. Within 30k miles the first head failed with a cyl #1 exhaust valve cracking (most likely due to the valves never have being adjusted by the previous owner). The engine (2nd head) failed a second time before I'd put 75k miles on it. Found the block to have a 0.004" sag in the middle of piston bores.
- I purchased a "New" JDM engine with ~35-55k on it for a paltry $475.00 from MD-JDM Motors.
- A local MD shop (Rubio's Garage) installed said JDM engine, swapping the CKF sensor to the JDM engine along with a new timing belt, water pump, idlers, and tensioner installed for a just as paltry $770.
- I performed a valve adjustment myself as soon as the CR-V returned to my driveway.
- Then I discovered the Power Steering and IAC cables were swapped, the ECU was not functioning for several output signals (other than the IAC), and that the IAC valve itself was also bad - New ECU for $20 (off eBay) and New IAC valve $134 (also eBay). Replaced the ECU and IAC valve myself.
- Discover the throttle body butterfly shaft leaking like a sieve, the FIT valve is not closing at all when engine was up to temperature (corroded internal spring, leaking wax), and the idle adjust screw on the TB closed completely (apparently to compensate for all the "leaky" air things previously mentioned).
- I purchased a new TB with FIT valve, TPS, and MAP sensors - $130 (eBay) and a locally procured a TB gasket ($8 - NAPA). Replaced those parts myself, and recheck everything once again, including all of the ECU signals. Now all is electronically and mechanically sound.
- With the valves correctly adjusted in a previous step, I proceed to replacing the air filter, PCV, and spark plugs (wires and distributor are less than 9 months old); set the engine timing and idle speeds. Adjusted spark advance to exactly 16 degrees, and idle speed to 480 RPM, under DSM adjustment conditions.
- Verify engine performance per DSM under all of the prescribed load conditions, and the engine now operates exactly on spec without a single issue. She purrs like a kitten.
- So all in all this little escapade cost me about $1600.00 out of pocket, but should yield a vehicle that will provide me with another 100k of miles on a fairly cheap to maintain platform.