Dnizzle

Yeah quit hatin D16SiHATCH and Mazdaboy. These lil engines are awesome. Throw some boost on these things and watch em SCREAM. Although there goes the economy and smog out the window but Hey I'm in TN.

digitally_remastered

i just find it odd to see a d series engine with 3 stage vtec rather than a dohc engine. also just seeing the two vtec solenoids is rather interesting as well. lol.

mos

Cragie, any updates on mileage figures?????????????????????

Its not terribly hard to get better than stock mileage with a turbo setup. Mileage will depend on component choice, mapping, and of course how you drive it.

I think the problem I would have with the econ mode and the short 5th gear is, I'd never even be in econ mode on the highway! Well I could raise the car up and put some 75 series tires on..

DazeMS

d-series was the test bed for such performance honda engines.. without the d-series ( which have MORE differant engine configurations) the b- and ultimately the K would not exsist...

I still feel that this more is not worth the exspense... as cool as it may be, a no vtec a6 with a t28 would be a much better choice...

tefloninja

Hello to everyone. First off, I own this engine in a 1996 cx hatch. I wired it myself with a little searching for wiring diagrams. I also own the P2J-003 Manual ECU it was very hard to find for $300.00 The big problem is most of the engines you will find are Automatics, and this poses a new problem because of the IACV as mentioned above. If you dont know which motor you have just check the IACV. 3 wire is auto and 2 wire is manual and they are mounted differently. The auto IACV is mounted on the TB and the manual is on the Intake. The good thing is it has a spot that looks like it was made for the 2 wire IACV. If you were very lucky and found the Manual motor with the 5 speed manual LSD with the P2J-003 you are my hero. You have a gem. DO NOT let anyone who does not own this setup change your mind. I have been studying this for over three years. The motor has the best MPG to date at a max of 60 mpg or 18K/L at a 20:1 ratio. Now imagine boost only 6 PSI on a small turbo. The above post were a little off. First stage to second stage is seemless and around 2800 give or take 100 RPM's. However the second to third stage is a different world at 4800 give or take a few, this will send you back to your seat. Mind you I have driven faster cars ie. 99 SI with head work and a b16 jdm hatch with 6 PSI. My friend the owner of the SI was impressed at what my little D15 could do. I hit REV limiter at 7200 RPM's I have a 4 to 1 Header with resonator and an N1 Catback. To all the guys that have said that you do not hear or feel VTEC kick in. You dont know what you are talking about. People know when my car is coming and it is still silenced at the tip. This motor and tranny will chirp and smoke both tires just like anything else. You just wont see me at the pump very often. If you cruise on the freeway you will get better than 40 mpg all day. My next step is of course boost. And I know there will be much flaming. But I will be using my P2J ECU. I am no Genius but a motor designed to operate safely at a 20:1 A/F ratio under 3000 RPM's for an EXTENDED period of time IMHO is designed for boost. That means the ECU is capable of not only calculating but managing low boost. Dont beleive me check FVT Ale it is a company's entry for the X prize for fuel economy and they are using this exact setup with no intercooler. This is the best D series motor ever produced IMO, it is a mathematical fact that it has the wildest cam profile of any D series. Just by comparison it generates the same HP as a Y8 with 100cc less. Open up the air ways and let her breathe. I would love to hear how yours turns out. Be different do it your way, thats what tuning is all about.

tefloninja

Sorry almost forgot, the hunting idle is a common issue because of the IACV mismatch along with people swapping intakes. The reason is the EGR, both ECU's and intakes require it due to the fact it is going through the head. Remove EGR and run the correct ECU and she will not idle right. As far as 02 sensors go, I am running (2) 1 WIRE 02 sensors $20.00 autozone and there are no issues. I found the entire swap with WIRING harness and ECU Manual with Tranny on Ebay for $850.00 and yes it sold JDMtech in Orlando had it. Most Honda guys will laugh right up to the point they see the 2 solenoids. Then you can watch the wheels turn in their mind. The mere fact this motor can operate at 20:1 normally. Says a couple things about the engineering, design, and the tuning from factory not to mention the complexity. Give credit where credit is due. The B16,H22,LS/Vtec, and K20's are all GREAT motors, but the D15 is my choice.

Patty

This is the swap I was going to do but the shop talked me into a B16. This in my opinion is the best Honda engine ever produced. Amazing fuel economy and superb performance. Local guy had one running on a P28( i think) and it was sweet.

Why can't Honda put this technology on a K and drop in the new CRX? Why?

Big[V]

Update for you guys my friend's EF sedan will be swapped with the Z7+CVT obd2b. Will keep you guys posted. Currently the mechanic is sizing up the engine bay. Will need to remove some material off near the left engine bay area due to the hefty CVT.

Sorry if I'm threadjacking. I think there should be a sticky for Z7 setups only coz it's probably the most unheard of engine in the whole of Honda forums around.

This baby has the same R/S ratio as K20A aka 1.62. There's loads of potential for this baby. Keep it up guys!

Big[V]

It depends what you are looking for. Many workshops will steer you to drop in the B series as simply put, it is alot easier to drop in a B than to make a D perform much like the B series (i.e. 100-110ps/l, 8000rpm rev line, higher cr, electronics etc).

In Taiwan there's a website with an EG8 with D15B VTEC went for p&p, aftermarket intake/4-2-1 exhaust manifold and tuned with Crome managed to pump out 130ps (150ps crank maybe?) on the wheels and torque improved to 14.8kgm. The block was stock.

Street driving mileage improved from 10km/l to 14km/l and its not even a VTEC-E motor and he's using 4.7 FD! According to the author, the difference was like night and day.

http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/voip-phon...e?mid=368&sc=1

P28 is not a 3 stage ECU.

Honda did embed this technology in one the three of the K20 motors. The econo K20 had the lean burn 12 valve operation as well with ultra lean 65:1 air fuel ratio dubbed Stream Absolute. Economy K's go from 12V mild to 16V mild. The other two K variants are more performance based.

http://world.honda.com/news/2003/pri...y/4031127.html

Though its specific fuel consumption is somewhat near with the D15B VTEC-E variants, can't expect a 2L to be as frugal as 1.5L. Like the saying goes there's no replacement for displacement.

There is a 3 stage "Y8" engine. It's called D16W8 or W9 in some areas with R/S ratio of 1.52, 130ps and earlier peak torque. No info on mileage but expect to be somewhere near the Z7.

JDM_addict

Sorry to bringing up an old post. I need to know this bigV.
My friend selling his D15B 3 Stage VTEC Auto engine to me quite cheap, it has engine, wiring, auto P2J ECU. engine is without distributor and i didnt want the CVT gearbox n iam planning to swap to manual. So my question is, how to do the swap? n Can I use back my D13B auto nonVTEC distributor?
BTW, Iam from Malaysia too. If possible, can i have the Malaysia guy contacts?

hatchet_honda

i have a d15b in my 91 civic si. you need a vtec obd1 distributor. ecu jumper haeness,,

JDM_addict

sorry ,my mistake, I'm swapping it into 96 EK hatch with D13B stock Auto engine. Is it OBD1?