MT CRX Build and Swap
#177
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Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
Well Cylinder number one has 0 compression.
Cylinder number 2 has this much compression.
Cylinder number 3 has 0 compression.
And cylinder number 4 has this much compression.
Time to pull the valve cover at least...
And looking at the cam gears, I dont believe this is right....
If I am correct, the UP ARROWs on each cam gear should point up together correct?!?!
Looks like my cam timing is way effed up.
So the correct way to set cam timing is what????
Cylinder number 2 has this much compression.
Cylinder number 3 has 0 compression.
And cylinder number 4 has this much compression.
Time to pull the valve cover at least...
And looking at the cam gears, I dont believe this is right....
If I am correct, the UP ARROWs on each cam gear should point up together correct?!?!
Looks like my cam timing is way effed up.
So the correct way to set cam timing is what????
Last edited by mtflyboy25; 11-08-2012 at 07:15 PM.
#181
Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
Thanks man! hahah, keep your eyes open or make me a good enough offer and you can have them lol..
Thanks! yeah I definitely saved it, but right now I am not so sure she likes me since I am about to rip her heart out, or at least part of it. I HATE stock headlights! Tails I am debating still.
Whew that is a LOUD green man. I am straight, so the neon green is a bit over the top lol. I AM thinking about a dark flat army green. That would look pretty good I think.
I am keeping the moldings black!!!!!!!
Thanks! yeah I definitely saved it, but right now I am not so sure she likes me since I am about to rip her heart out, or at least part of it. I HATE stock headlights! Tails I am debating still.
Whew that is a LOUD green man. I am straight, so the neon green is a bit over the top lol. I AM thinking about a dark flat army green. That would look pretty good I think.
I am keeping the moldings black!!!!!!!
#188
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Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
To fix your problem, pull off the upper timing belt cover, set your crank pulley to TDC by lining up the notch with the TDC indication mark on the lower timing belt cover, loosen your timing belt tensioner so that you can slide the belt off the cam gears, then it will just take some patience and a few tries to get the cam gear TDC marks in the center of the two wheels to line up while you ensure the the two "UP" are pointing relatively straight up and both in the same direction. Then, while ensuring the cam gears don't move, reinstall the timing belt starting with the exhaust gear and then the intake gear. Once you think you have it, rotate the engine 2 - 3 cycles to ensure all your TDC marks are lining up properly each time. Rotating the engine counter clockwise will re-apply tension to the belt and you can then re-tighten the tension adjustment bolt.
If you don't know how to do these steps, let me know and i will send you a link to a manual that will show you how to identify the components / procedural steps you need to fix your timing... I hope this helped.
#189
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Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
im not big on metallic greens... but if it works for you then great!
for sure man...
thanks...
sounds sweet man get on it!
Thanks a ton! I was waiting for someone to say this. I did it yesterday actually, but still no luck...
Top Dead Center.... Right????
Before I pulled the belt and spun both cams until they faced directly up....
Compression in Cylinder #1 after putting it all back together....
New bumper on...
So I still have low compression which means a bent valve at this point.... Let me know if I am wrong...
So I will pull the head tomorrow most likely.
for sure man...
thanks...
^ @ mtflyboy25 - Yes the arrows should be pointing in the exact same direction and when the notch on your crank pulley lines up with the TDC mark on your timing belt cover the two "up" arrows will be pointing straight up (in respect to the angle at which the engine block is positioned). So the arrows would be rotated slightly counter clockwise from 12 o'clock.
To fix your problem, pull off the upper timing belt cover, set your crank pulley to TDC by lining up the notch with the TDC indication mark on the lower timing belt cover, loosen your timing belt tensioner so that you can slide the belt off the cam gears, then it will just take some patience and a few tries to get the cam gear TDC marks in the center of the two wheels to line up while you ensure the the two "UP" are pointing relatively straight up and both in the same direction. Then, while ensuring the cam gears don't move, reinstall the timing belt starting with the exhaust gear and then the intake gear. Once you think you have it, rotate the engine 2 - 3 cycles to ensure all your TDC marks are lining up properly each time. Rotating the engine counter clockwise will re-apply tension to the belt and you can then re-tighten the tension adjustment bolt.
If you don't know how to do these steps, let me know and i will send you a link to a manual that will show you how to identify the components / procedural steps you need to fix your timing... I hope this helped.
To fix your problem, pull off the upper timing belt cover, set your crank pulley to TDC by lining up the notch with the TDC indication mark on the lower timing belt cover, loosen your timing belt tensioner so that you can slide the belt off the cam gears, then it will just take some patience and a few tries to get the cam gear TDC marks in the center of the two wheels to line up while you ensure the the two "UP" are pointing relatively straight up and both in the same direction. Then, while ensuring the cam gears don't move, reinstall the timing belt starting with the exhaust gear and then the intake gear. Once you think you have it, rotate the engine 2 - 3 cycles to ensure all your TDC marks are lining up properly each time. Rotating the engine counter clockwise will re-apply tension to the belt and you can then re-tighten the tension adjustment bolt.
If you don't know how to do these steps, let me know and i will send you a link to a manual that will show you how to identify the components / procedural steps you need to fix your timing... I hope this helped.
Top Dead Center.... Right????
Before I pulled the belt and spun both cams until they faced directly up....
Compression in Cylinder #1 after putting it all back together....
New bumper on...
So I still have low compression which means a bent valve at this point.... Let me know if I am wrong...
So I will pull the head tomorrow most likely.
Last edited by mtflyboy25; 11-08-2012 at 07:23 PM.
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#192
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Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
^^ agreed
170 is not low.
What are the other 3 reading?
(make sure you have all 4 spark plugs removed and the connectors on the distributor disconnected so spark and fuel are disabled.)
170 is not low.
What are the other 3 reading?
(make sure you have all 4 spark plugs removed and the connectors on the distributor disconnected so spark and fuel are disabled.)
#194
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Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
First of all uh oh!
Second of all... Here are the cams... Both UP marks shown...
unplugged distributor and the injectors...
Still smells heavily like gas... I wonder if they are stuck open....
PLugs look fine, just soaked with gas...
Cylinder Numero 1 = 150 ish
Cylinder Numero 2 = 150 ish
Cylinder Numero 3 = 160 ish
Cylinder Numero 4 = 115 ish and damnitttttt
So if I get a general sense of yes you are phucked go get a valve job, that is what I will do....
Second of all... Here are the cams... Both UP marks shown...
unplugged distributor and the injectors...
Still smells heavily like gas... I wonder if they are stuck open....
PLugs look fine, just soaked with gas...
Cylinder Numero 1 = 150 ish
Cylinder Numero 2 = 150 ish
Cylinder Numero 3 = 160 ish
Cylinder Numero 4 = 115 ish and damnitttttt
So if I get a general sense of yes you are phucked go get a valve job, that is what I will do....
Last edited by mtflyboy25; 11-08-2012 at 07:47 PM.
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Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
No way to tell with a compression check.
Leak down test is in order to see where the potential problem is.
With so much fuel it is very possible that your cylinder walls have washed out.
Drop a cap of oil in each cylinder and recheck compression.
Also, throw those platinum tip craptastic plugs in the trash and get regular copper NGKs.
It won't get the motor running, but you wasted money and got a downgrade.
Leak down test is in order to see where the potential problem is.
With so much fuel it is very possible that your cylinder walls have washed out.
Drop a cap of oil in each cylinder and recheck compression.
Also, throw those platinum tip craptastic plugs in the trash and get regular copper NGKs.
It won't get the motor running, but you wasted money and got a downgrade.
#196
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Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
Time to hit up harbor freight for a new tool.....
the plantinums are junk huh? The spark like hell so I cant see why that would be! I do have the old plugs for it too lol...
the plantinums are junk huh? The spark like hell so I cant see why that would be! I do have the old plugs for it too lol...
Last edited by mtflyboy25; 11-08-2012 at 07:48 PM.
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Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
Got the cylinder leak tester for $39.99.... damnit... I jsut payed tuition as well. $1600 some bucks. That sucks... Someone needs to buy my effing 2011 mustang GT from me! Then I will have money....
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Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
CRAP...
i stopped after this.... So I couldnt figure out where the air was leaking though, which uh sucks more.... So now I have NO idea what to do, but I think the engine is coming out for a full rebuild....
i stopped after this.... So I couldnt figure out where the air was leaking though, which uh sucks more.... So now I have NO idea what to do, but I think the engine is coming out for a full rebuild....
Last edited by mtflyboy25; 11-08-2012 at 07:51 PM.
#199
Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
check out 'Eric the car guy' on youtube, he has a great video on how to do a 'leak down test' what was leaking?...gas or oil? how many miles are on that engine? did you mess with the timing before installing it? you only drove it once, thats it right? is there a warranty? seems pretty shady if the timing was out when you got it...cant wait to see pitures of the rebuild!...i have a spare F22b2 i want to rebuild
#200
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Re: MT CRX Build and Swap
check out 'Eric the car guy' on youtube, he has a great video on how to do a 'leak down test' what was leaking?...gas or oil? how many miles are on that engine? did you mess with the timing before installing it? you only drove it once, thats it right? is there a warranty? seems pretty shady if the timing was out when you got it...cant wait to see pitures of the rebuild!...i have a spare F22b2 i want to rebuild
I drove it several times. At least 50 miles. yeah I need to tear it apart and check the head gasket first of all. If I cant find a break in it, well then I guess it will be a full rebuild.