EFstyle

So today I took off the boot and now im kinda lost as to how these come off... any insight??

JustOneOrTwoPosts

im not sure exactly what size, but I used an adjustable open-end wrench to take it off. you use it on the big fat part where the hex is. just unscrew it like a bolt. If you have the new one next to you, take a look at it and you will see what im talking about. good luck.

90_EX_Civic

you have to undo the locking plate that is pinched/crimped that holds the inner tie rod from spinning.

make sure that you have your key in the ignition and have your steering wheel unlocked so that you can pull/push the tie rod. to see it better have it pulled out as far as possible. the way they have that little plate pinched is from the top and the bottom. you'll be able to un-pinch the bottom with little to no problem. the hard one is the top. the way i solved this is by un-pinching the bottom and using a open ended wrench, or adjustable wrench and just twisted it off. you might also have to work it back and forth to loosen it enough. but once it's loose, it should just spin right off. then just do it in reverse. but don't pinch the plate till you have the inner tie rod screwed back in. it should be snug in(don't think they make a torque wrench for this), then pinch the plate to keep the inner tie rod from spinning(or you'll never be able to align it cause the inner tie rod well be spinning while you're trying to align your car)

edit* forgot to mention. i used a 10" chisel to un pinch the old pinched plate, and to pinch the new one in. and i should have taken pictures when i did mine on my civic and teg. would have been a good write up.

EFstyle

well the inner tie rod thats in there now spins ( i only started disassembly on the drivers side ) so its not suposed to?? that would have been super nice if you would have made a write up!! i guess mabe i will

90_EX_Civic

no it shouldn't be spinning already. there should have been a washer type plate that you're supposed to pinch to keep the inner tie rod from spinning. and the new tie rod that you bought should have a new washer type plate that comes with it(some other ones come with a new bolt that you use to tighten the outer to the inner).

and yeah, please do a write up with pics. i did it kinda ghetto when i put the boot back on(used a zip tie) cause i didn't have any hose clamp to secure it back on.

good luck on the write up, i know a lot people on here don't know how to do this. and if you're really ballsy, you can add a DIY alignment write up with this too, that is if you know how to do your own alignment.


edit* that's right, it actually does spin, but that's the part that should. you'll see what im talking about when you see that pinched plate that HOLDS the inner tie rod in.

EFstyle

yea i had to cut the clamp that was on the boot cause it was too rusted... but ill be ordering all new parts from Honda! I've never really dont an alignment myself, I always just took it to a shop

Feanor

I recently tried this repair but it has turned out to be fantastically more difficult than I thought.

It is sooooo difficult to unpinch the lock washer. Any tips? I just banged it with a chisel for a half hour. How do you pinch it again once the new inner tie rod is on? I haven't managed whatsoever on that one.

Also, the new inner tie rod end creates a bit less space between it and the steering assembly where your wrench or crow's foot needs to go to tighten it on. I think I am going to have to grind a crow's foot down so that it has a slim enough profile. However, this made me look at different options for inner tie rod ends.

The original kind has the ball joint facing the steering assembly whereas I've seen some replacement options that have the ball joint facing the outer tie rod end. This seems to make the need for the lock washer obsolete, but I'm worried that it actually wouldn't be compatible. Does anyone know?





here is a pic of the other option where the ball join faces the outer tie rod end.





Here is a pic of an original type inner tie rod end where the ball joint faces the steering assembly.

Tyson

i have taken the inner tie rods off (and replaced the rack end bushing) while the steering rack is still under the car, however, it is MUCH easier to just unbolt the whole rack and do the removal of the inner tie rod and bushing off the car. i highly recommend this.

then you have two options:

1. with the rack off the car, you have much better access for chisels or scrapers, or screwdrivers, or even a mini prybar to lift the lock washer tabs off. i used vise grips to get it from half bent to straight flat with the thick washer it butts up against.

2. find a very slim (or grind your own) adjustable wrench that will fit OVER the lock washer tabs, and just torque it off, overcoming and destroying the lock washer. fine as long as you have a replacement... i hear theyre hard to come by from dealer... havent checked in a while. its good to see OE replacements come with a new lock washer.


just take the rack off the car. save yourself frustration.

and i hope youre replacing the rack end bushing while your taking off the inner tie rod. its 100% must do, for any car that hasnt had it replaced in the last decade, especially if ever. it is the main source for slop in the steering and thumping noises over bumps.


more info in the thread.
https://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-.../#post19644230

Feanor

Awesome. Thanks for the reply. Now mine is the RT4WD wagon with the power steering, so is there still going to be a "rack end bushing?"

I think the advice to take the assembly out is good, I'll have to see what it entails. I've never messed with steering before let alone power steering so I hope I don't mess something up.

I'm not sure how hard it is to get the lock washer either. Most inner tie rod replacements I've seen come with it, but the one I bought did not.

Tyson

no, the power steering rack does not have a rack end bushing. its got a bunch of different seals instead.