sloweh3

you know it, lol. thanks for the help bro

gsrjeff

cant the fitv be by past? or can i just swap out the tb for one that does not hav the fitv

88SeeOurEx

i'll get back to you on this one bro!!

gsrjeff

thanks. i have a jdm gsr motor got from h-motors dont know why it had that on it but i put a skunk 2 intake on to bypass the secondaries car was fine then all a sudden last week the car started the high idle at 3000 and then goes up and down tryed the coolent flush but my fans not kickin on and its not sucking the fluid down thinkin thermostats not opening but it doesent over heat so doesent make sense

88SeeOurEx

removing the FITV will do one thing only, give you a shitty start up and probably clog your cat from too much fuel and not enough air being delivered at idle. Think about it, your engine needs that extra air at start up and your depraving it of that while leaving the fuel delivery the same which will cause you to run rich.

i took that from some post that i found in a search! i'm not 100% sure about running rich.. maybe when you only start up but thats about it.. and as far as what i've read some ppl say that it'll start up and seem like it's gonna die ONLY in cold weather, until ur motors warm and others say that there idle is perfectly fine when warming up.. sO i dunno.. i'm gonna be blocking mine off! as far as just chagning the throttle body or manifold i'm not sure but i think it'll work.. and heres that link so u can see what options u have on where to run ur coolant lines and what not! Good luck Bro!!

88SeeOurEx

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2197362


haha this might be helpful.. lol opps!

sloweh3

Well, we finally had a colder night tonight, the idle is still fluctuating even after doing the fitv again. I'm thinking of possibly a throttle body gasket now. It's cheap and it won't take long to do. I'll probably pick one up tomorrow. Hopefully one for a 90-95 teg should work, as long as the bore of the tb is the same as my oem b16 one.

sloweh3

ok, put a new tb gasket on...its still doing the same thing. the only other thing i can think is im gasket and replacing some vaccum lines, incase there is a pinhole in one. it started fluctuating while being warmed up yesterday, so i know it's not the fitv now.

i guess i'll pick up some vaccum lines on thursday and see what happens. if that doesn't work, i'll just upgrade the im with an aebs and hondata im gasket

-Trinitron-

I'm not sure if your car is the same, but my Si did the same thing after one of the swaps. I finally realized that I had switched the plugs for the VTEC and the Coolant temp sensor. I never noticed they are the same plug, and they are really close on the harness. What finally clued me in was my AFC would throw the coolant temperature code when I hooked it up.

EFSiR

I'm in the same boat. I don't have FITV as I'm running ITR throttle body.
I changed my intake to stock JDM intake filter and piping and it runs better in the cold. A LOT BETTER. But, same story, start it up cold, and it'll die in 15 sec. What happens is my RPMs don't go up right away.

My solution so far was to start it and start driving right away; coasting at 2000 RPM in 2nd gear for 1 min and then RPM climb up...

I'll keep watching for what you come up with.

sloweh3

Well, I'm getting my hands on an AEBS intake mani and hondata intake mani gasket later on today. Since my FITV actually is located on my intake mani and not the tb, hopefully this will get rid of the problem. I'm also going to make some bigger gauge transmission and valve cover grounds. Hopefully I'll have a fixed idle and some more power

sloweh3

ok, so i've still been fighting with my idle issues, along with some stupid coolant leaks. wednesday i'm going finally try finishing up the blockoff plate for the fitv, put a new iacv on, which i got for free today, fix the coolant leaks, and put my obd2 dizzy on. i'm in the process of making my conversion harness now.

but i couldn't pick up the mani and gasket yet, due to funds. i'm gonna try the block off plate again and hopefully this will fix all of the problems.

sloweh3

Update: I put the blockoff plate on tonight, fixed my dizzy problem and got some new coolant hoses. Everything is finally fixed. It idles perfect now. And no more coolant leaks. Thanks for the help everyone.

sloweh3

Update: Well, the next day, I fired it up in the morning, the idle is still messed up. Well I've narrowed it down to the iacv now, which I picked up the other day. I'm gonna put it on next week and all the problems should be fixed finally.

88SeeOurEx

dang bro!! still haven't gotten this taken care of! let me know what you had to do please! i need to fix this problem again! ugh this is very annoying. i'm gonna try and lock-tight the thing in the FITV that u have to screw in and see what happens!

sloweh3

yea man, this really sucks. i've been working 12 hour shifts, so it's hard to find time to work on it...and it's my dd. the cold start idle got worse once i put the block off plate on. now as soon as i start it up, it goes up to 1500rpms then dies. but at least it idles perfect now once it's warmed up. my buddy had the same problem because his iacv wasnt even wired up. he wired it up and now it's fine.

oh, and to top it off, my passenger side axle started clicking and 3rd gear started to grind a bit. i'm gonna replace the axle and flush the tranny. then i'm putting syncromesh in it. if i'm easy on it, or double clutch it, the trans doesn't grind, it's just higher rpms... damn cable b-series trannys

88SeeOurEx

damn bro! thats soO annoying! and i was stooked to tell u to use locktite on the plastic piece that screws in on the FITV buuut... just today about an hour ago it started fluctuating! UGH... well i'ma be getting a new motor in a week or two but this motor is going in my buddys eg so i gotta figure it out! haha damn.. as for the tranny yeah if some of ur other gears are ruff to go in.. it prolly is your fluid! gO luck and let me know if u or ANYONE for that matter gets a solution for this! cause i'm not even sure when to get a new FITV from =(

sloweh3

Yea, it sucks man. I haven't had a chance to put the IACV on yet, but I flushed the trans with syncromesh, and it's completely better now.

I actually just posted the car for sale now. I'm selling the swap seperate as well, since I've got a full a6 for it to go in. I've been looking at a 02 Subaru 2.5RS sitting at a dealership close to me. So as soon as this car goes, I'll have my new car.

I found people selling used FITV that guarentee them on ebay

88SeeOurEx

soo.... the idle only fluctuated the one time and ever since its been fine and i work @ 4am and i live in so cal and its actually real cold at that time in the morning and my start up is fine.. i definitely recommend you take off the FITV one last time and dry it off with a towel/rag and dry off the threads on both the plastic piece and the metal thread it screws into and on once u do that apply the RED locktite onto the plastic thread only and then do a second coating on the lower part that screws down first and the screw it back on and let it sit outta off the mani. i left if for about an hour and a half and checked it, by tryin to unloosen it by hand and it wouldn't budge.. so i put it back on and added the radiator fluid into the upper hose and put it back onto the radiator and then filled up the core/radiator.. and wellah! give it a shot!! where's nova?? Good luck bro and let me know what happens?! (and only try this if ur plastic piece in the FITV is loose after you've already tightened it!) GOOD LUCK!! and please try it!! haha

sloweh3

Yea, I don't have my FITV on there anymore, but I'll go back and recheck to make sure bolts didn't come loose from the blockoff plate. I'm gonna also put on my IACV too, I just haven't had time at all. I ended up getting strep throat, so I've been in bed for the past 5 days trying to get rid of it...time to fill up the kerosine heater on thursday and finally work on this thing some more.

Oh, and nova is Northern Virginia.

88SeeOurEx

oh dang.. thats right u went with the block off plate! haha i forgot!

sloweh3

*Update*

Well, last week on one of the warmer days we had, I ended up putting the other IACV on. Well, it helped out a lot more, but I think I'm gonna need a new IACV for it, or at least one in 100% working order. I used to have to keep the rpms up at around 2-2500 for a few minutes on cold idles in order for it to idle right. Now it only takes about 30 seconds of doing it after I put the other IACV on. No check engine lights from it still though. It does fluctuate a little bit now when I've got the clutch pressed in and coasting.

Hopefully I'll get a new IACV here soon and the problem should be completely fixed. With the hours I've been working and the cold weather, it's hard to get time to mess with the car.

EFSiR

Here's the problem. When you coolant is below certain temp, (US Si ECU was -10degC or 14deg F, not sure what the JDM PW0 is) on original 1gen B16 you had extra air to help with the idle.

If you don't have original intake manifold like me and using ITR or any manifold without the dashport air assist, you'll never get that extra air during startup. SO what happens is you get very rich and seconds into the idle your car will stall no matter what.
Solution is to have you foot on gas and keep it at 2000rpm, OR introduce air some how during the warmup by having tubing attached to the intake manifold and having it open under 1800RPM till your coolant temp is at least 0 deg.