stemiched

So my car has been running perfectly fine but im tired of seeing the check engine light, yes i have pulled the ecu and hazard fuzes for 30sec. and put them back in, and it temporarally makes them go away but it always comes back...

throwing code 10: Intake air temp

engine: sohc zc, mpfi

Recent modifications: EG half rad, Air bypass valve (might be called something else... those foamy things that are sapose to suck up water on a cold air intake) the cold air intake has been on for a while but i just recently put on the bypass valve

The eg half rad wouldnt cause this problem would it? maybe its not getting enough air?

h8tred

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stemiched &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So my car has been running perfectly fine but im tired of seeing the check engine light, yes i have pulled the ecu and hazard fuzes for 30sec. and put them back in, and it temporarally makes them go away but it always comes back...

throwing code 10: Intake air temp

engine: sohc zc, mpfi

Recent modifications: EG half rad, Air bypass valve (might be called something else... those foamy things that are sapose to suck up water on a cold air intake) the cold air intake has been on for a while but i just recently put on the bypass valve

The eg half rad wouldnt cause this problem would it? maybe its not getting enough air?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, just so ya know, the "air bypass valve" of which you speak is used incase your cold air intake finds itself completely submersed in water. It opens up and allows air in there when it meets the vacuum required to actually suck up water. As far as your sensor issue, it's most likely just a bad sensor, replace it. Unless you caused a short pinching a wire when you or whoever swapped the engine. My money's on the sensor though as it just popped up.

wiZCo

Yeah, those sensors like to get damaged during shipping. Test the sensor. Or another common problem is that people switch the plugs for the IAT and EACV, but you'd be getting a code 14 as well if that were the case.

jlicrx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another common problem is that people switch the plugs for the IAT and EACV, but you'd be getting a code 14 as well if that were the case.</TD></TR></TABLE>that is correct - although what we see more often, if it was a DX to begin with, is the connector for the Tandem Control Valve plugged into the IAT sensor

ludesrv

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that is correct - although what we see more often, if it was a DX to begin with, is the connector for the Tandem Control Valve plugged into the IAT sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>

True. Check to make sure you have the right plug in first. Then check to see if you have a damaged sensor. The IAT sensor is the same from 88-00, so any engine at a wrecking yard will have a good donor. 2 screws to get them on and off. But first, make sure you have the right plug in.

stemiched

okay where is this sensor located so i can check the correct one?

and yea the car was originally a dx and now has a sohc zc mpfi swapper in...

stemiched

bump for location of this particular sensor...

jlicrx

IAT is on the #1 cylinder intake manifold runner on the driver's side - white plastic and is diamond shaped where it attaches to the manifold - connector should have 2 wires, one red/yellow and one green/white

Zaakro

Does the B series have that same one as a D series?