jlk16188

NO, the d15 motors always need the two marks aligned even with the split line of the head. This was always a tricky angle for me to confirm though because the fender was always in my way. try using a mirror to validate your marks are infact even with the head. without using the mirror i was always one tooth off

mk378

If you have the plastic pointer at 7 o'clock (my D15B7 does), use it, it is easier to see than the side marks. But all 3 marks will line up at the same time. Note that it seldom comes out exact, you can only get within plus or minus half a tooth width. The picture posted is way off but if you look at it if the cam were to be rotated about 15 degrees counter-clockwise everything would line up.

TomCat39

I would like to point out, the ignition timing was dead on once the plug wires were changed and OP could get an accurate reading with his timing light.

Ignition timing will never be exact if you are off 1 tooth of mechanical timing. If I recall you can only get close to proper ignition timing at one of the distributor extremes if you are 1 tooth off.

The ignition timing has verified the mechanical timing is correct.

New motor is required with that smoke and low compression.

CSFD7

I found a D15b jdm. Think it'll work in there?

TomCat39

Yes, but.... there is 4 or 5 different D15B JDM motors, non-vtec, vtec-e, vtec, 3 stage vtec(-e) and carborated. You will have to verify which variant it is. The standard vtec D15B is probably one of the best and strongest SOHC motors around. D16Z6 comes in second from what I understand.

If you go the route of vtec, you will want the P28 D16Z6 ECU or if you can get the ECU with the vtec D15B, you can easily convert your car to vtec with just 2 additional wires.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Chiming in late to this thread.

You are lining up the cam marks correctly (green indicating arrows lined up to the yellow indicating arrows per that picture or in other words, aligning the 9 and 3 o'clock marks level to the head/valve cover mating surface).

There's quite a bit of misinformation in this thread, contemplating if it's worth correcting the info at all. Bottom line though, I've experienced everything you have described and I went down to converting to 16 valve. If you're doing the labor you can rebuild the block quite easily but I saw that you might not have as much time to have the car down so a straight swap may be the better solution. There are pros/cons depending on what you actually end up getting. I'd be happy to discuss if you'd like but in the mean time if you have some time to read here's my break down for the 16 valve head swap.

https://sites.google.com/site/24teng...h-16valve-head

TomCat39

Please correct any errors including any I may have made.

I know I personally would rather be corrected than to harbor incorrect info.

*believes it may be the idea of centered ignition timing is confirmation of mechanical timing*

But please do correct any errors you notice.

One error I made that I found was, the JDM P08 ECU uses a 1 wire O2, I was hazarding a guess it was going to use the same 4 wire heated O2 sensor as the USDM B7 and Z6.

CSFD7

So, I took the motor out and took the block to a performance machine shop.......it's done. Major taper and in order to get it right it'll need bored and all that crap so I'm looking at close to 2000 dollars just for a d15b8 block. Not worth it. Now I'm looking for a new full d series, harness, ecu and tranny for under 1000 dollars, lol any ideas?

x.l.r.8

d16z6 with the p28 ecu keeps your OBD1, your trans will fit and the engine is pretty good balance for power and economy, 92-95 EX should be easy enough to locate