97civicgirl

Hi all, first post here. Hope you don't mind it being long-winded...

I have a 1997 Civic LX, 1.6L, 175K miles, with a bad rear main seal leak. I have tried to be good about keeping oil topped off, but last week I let the level get too low and while driving on freeway, the CEL came on. I pulled over and added a quart of oil that I had in my car, which brought my level back to the minimum on the dipstick. When I drove off afterwards, my car started misfiring badly and had a severe loss of power, the CEL alternated between staying on and rapidly flashing. I got to a gas station, bought another quart of oil and topped it off. The car began driving normally after that, but the CEL stayed on.

I STUPIDLY made the mistake of thinking the CEL light was the oil light, and when I got home and called a mechanic, I told him my oil light was on and had been flashing, which he concluded no oil pressure and without looking at my car, he was very confident that I had done serious damage to my bearings and my engine needed to be replaced. So, I bought a JDM engine, which should get here Monday, and a bunch of other assorted parts (seals, hoses, belts, plugs).

After I spent $850 ordering parts, I decided to learn more about my civic. Yesterday, I learned it is my CEL (not the oil light) that is on. I also learned how to pull codes with a jumper wire, which are 71 & 73, ie, cylinder 1 & 3 misfire codes. I took the car for a test drive last night and it is acting completely normal. Today, I plan to examine plugs and perform a compression test. Assuming plugs look fine and compression test normal, what else should I do to determine if serious damage has been done to my engine?

Assuming that low oil caused misfire/loss of power issues, and now that oil level is good again, the engine is fine for now… should I still go ahead and replace it with the low mile JDM and then try to sell my old engine locally? Should I hang onto the JDM and have it swapped when my engine eventually dies? Or should I re-sell the JDM engine? I am kind of inclined to go ahead with the swap as my engine has high miles and I still have the damn rear main seal leak problem that I’d like to get fixed so I’m not stressing about running out of oil while driving again. On the other hand, if my current engine is fine, what’s the rush in doing the swap?

Also, I am on the fence about attempting the swap myself vs. paying the mechanic $500 to do it. On the one hand, I feel dumber than a brick for not knowing the CEL symbol in my civic, and that makes me wonder if I have any business working on any vehicle. On the other hand, I have done quite a few R/I projects on my suburban and roomie’s ram and they all have been successful (muffler, radiator, fuel pump, sensors & connectors, headlight switch, etc., etc.) I believe that with proper studying of a service manual and reviewing additional information on the internet, I could learn how to do the swap myself. Am I totally crazy for even considering this???

Any thoughts???

Thanks!!

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

My opinion? With you not being able to tell an oil light from a CEL I'd let someone else do it OR AT THE VERY LEAST get someone that knows what they are doing to help.

What was $850 in parts for? Are you still driving around with a CEL?

pityocamptes

Why not pull the pan and look at the bearings before you make your decision?

94EG8

If you already have the engine i'd probably go ahead and replace it. If you're the type that can read and follow instructions you'll probably be ok with replacing the engine. It's not particularly difficult. But make sure you have a good set of tools to work with.

97civicgirl

Thanks for the quick reply and your point is very well taken. I feel extremely dumb about the CEL mistake. Maybe all of the successful repairs on my burb and roomie's ram have been just pure luck, eh? Hell, after the sequence of ignoramus moves on my part this week with my civic, I am wondering that very thing myself. Fortunately, I have a friend with much more experience/knowledge than I who is willing to help me... but he has never worked on a civic before, only gmc/chevy trucks.

Parts ($841 to be more exact):
$721 JDM 1.6L complete long block from jdm engine depot
$120 from rockauto: ac, ps, alt belts, upp/low rad hoses, in/out heater hoses, NGK plat plugs, Fram oil & air filters, front & rear crankshaft seal sets, and pcv valve.

Note: timing belt, tensioner, and water pump were replaced 24,000 miles ago, so I did not order them... but have been debating on getting them anyway for peace of mind.

I have not driven the civic since the CEL came on, other than the one test drive last night, as I have my suburban to drive. The CEL did not reset on its own, nor have I reset it yet in case I decide to get it properly scanned first.

Again, your point is well taken about the project being beyond my ability. So... assuming compression test is good, would you go ahead and pay a mechanic to swap right away, hang onto the jdm engine and swap in the future, or sell the jdm engine?

EFPhilly

I would say but a rear main seal.

compression test. Pull old motor then replace seal and sell it. the buyer will know compression numbers...

Swap JDM in and do compression test. Hope that new electronics come with the motor because thats what it sounds like to me....like a dizzy misfire. Swap dizzy from new motor and see if it stops.

94EG8

Having worked on both the civic is far easier to work on. However it is different

new wouldn't hurt here. But if you buy a new water pump, buy it from Honda, the aftermarket ones are junk.

If you sell the JDM engine you will loose money on it almost guaranteed. As for the other 2 options that's entirely your decision. You might want to factor any potential towing bills into the equation if you get stranded somewhere.

94EG8

That's pretty much what I was thinking. ICM/Igniter in the distributor is probably bad.

97civicgirl

Wow, thanks for all of the food for thought! You guys are faster than my gmc forum buddies in replying.

So... consensus seems to be to go ahead and swap. I too thought/hoped that if old engine still ok, I can sell pretty easily on local ads. Local salvage yards are charging $800+ for my engine.

The JDM engine comes with all sorts of extra goodies, like the dizzy, alt, ps pump, sensors, ac comp, injectors, TB, etc. so, I'll be sure to install the new dizzy.

94EG8, that's encouraging news. I feel pretty comfy working on my burb. Maybe it won't be so hard to learn how to work on my civic. Towing bills... fortunately, I have the more expensive AAA package, so I'm covered there, but I don't have any desire to become stranded on side of the road having to get my car towed home. In fact, I worry about even driving it to have scanned, as the nearest parts store is 25 miles away... and you have to go up and over a mountain to get there.

At least it is now sort of warm enough to run outside to check condition of plugs.

Thanks again for everyone's input. I have much to chew on.

phaphon

you can also do a leak down test it would tell you alot more about the engine

97civicgirl

Update: my plugs look pretty good. I borrowed a compression gauge from my neighbor, and my friend is coming over now to help me continue diagnosis process. He is also picking up a chilton's book for me on his way here. I guess we can go ahead and drop the oil pan and inspect (thanks for the suggestion!), but not sure how to do a leak down test?

This may sound weird, but I am going to be so bummed if it turns out my engine is still good. lol

97civicgirl

Darn it! The compression numbers are as follows from 1-4: 180, 180, 175, and 185. Now what?

phaphon

the numbers look good still if you dont know how to do a leak down test im sure a shop will perform one for you for about 50 bucks well thats the price for around here the last time i ask

fungus mungus

I don't think a leak down is necessary if you have compression like that. All that will do is tell you where you're losing compression, which you're not.

You say it runs fine now, but the light is still on? Did you reset the code? If so, did it come right back on? If so, check your injectors on cyl 1 and 3 by unplugging them one at a time. Does it run worse? If not, that injector needs attention. Double-check plugs and wires. Are the plugs gapped properly? If all else fails, take out the coil and igniter and have them tested at Autozone.

fm

EFPhilly

HAAAHAHAHAHAHHAH dizzy man. We were right. Your compression numbers are fine. Did you do the test hot and try a wet test. We are fast huh ? :D

97civicgirl

I am officially bummed now. I reset the code and took it for a rough test drive with my friend. The car ran great and the CEL did not come back on.

I did the compression test hot, but did not see a need to run the test wet.

phaphon

oh well atleast you have a back up motor

EFPhilly

good news

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

If you have a manual transmission the rear main seal itself is easy to replace and install (just remove the flywheel and remove the rear main seal and fit the new one and press it in as you install the flywheel, i.e. use the flywheel to press the rear main seal in) the pita is removing the transmission but you can do it just get yourself a helms manual for your civic.

97civicgirl

Phaphon, just what every girl wants... a back up motor. lol

Thanks all for the input. It was an educational day for me yesterday. Since my car is not under immediate need to have engine swapped, I think I may attempt swap myself as I have time to study and prepare.

I guess I am officially crazy.

Libertariat

No, you're officially every guys dream girl.

EFPhilly

hahahah I guess I am too because I have a spare LS if my built GSR goes on the dyno LMAO. Having an extra engine makes you a girl...****....

97civicgirl

ek forever guy, thanks! My buddy thinks it is pretty cool too that I like to work on my own cars. He especially likes watching me with my burb as I have to crawl like a monkey to get to most things under hood.

phaphon

i know i wish my girl was into cars