POE

went to adjust my toe and the driver side bolt is seized up, i went to crank it loose and sounded like it was gonna break the head of bolt of... any tips? and if not any DIY on how to get the bolt out of that bushing..
please help

nothing_shocking

Which bolt are you cranking? The one that attaches the compensator arm to the body or to the trailing arm?

POE

its the bolt u use to adjust the rear toe... i dont beleive it has anything to do with the rear trailing arm, all i know is its the bolt that use to toe IN and toe OUT.

saltybeagle

Blowtorch. Heat that bitch up to red hot and let it cool ... should come right out.

POE

thanks, any other tips, before i get the torch out?

98civdx

Worked for us several times, have you tried soaking in pb blaster or something? I dont like useing heat, if at all possible.

POE

allright, just soak it in pb blaster, any other tips?

dpcgtp

iTrader: (2)

That bolt can be a b!tch. I just had the same problem. Utimately i had to take a torch to it. Spray it with pb blaster and let it sit for a couple mins. Then wipe it off ( PB blaster is prolly flameable). Heat that b!tch until she starts to turn red. Then let it cool down a bit and crank on her ***.
U better use heat, U do not wanna break that bolt off. U will have a mess then.

Wdpfreak145

Actually you wanna do it while it's hot. The heat is so the nut will expand and free up some play/movement. If you let it cool down any, the heat will
dissipate to the bolt and cause it to expand, thus rendering your attempt futile lol.

You could however torch it and then let it cool COMPLETELY down, but idk.

saltybeagle

You DON'T want to do it while it's hot. The point of heating it up is so the bolt will expand(heat) and contract(cool). The expansion does usually break up any rust and the contracting will allow it to turn. Doing this while it is hot can cause twisted bolts, breakage etc. It may take a few times of doing this to completely break it loose. What this guy said makes no sense at all. Metal expands when hot not cold...... water on the other hand.....

VtecHusker

penetrating oil let it soak for a good day then mabye try it

k3ntegra

Thanks for this!

I had two different alignment shops not adjust the rear left toe, even though it was out of range. One of them stated it was "frozen".

For those living in northeast where snow and road salt a concern, did using a propane torch bring success? I additionally intend to place beeswax on the heated bolt to lubricate it.
Also I read there is supposed to be bushing where the rear toe bolt is. Can this procedure be successfully performed without damaging the bushing?

If the bolt head breaks, will the cars still be drivable and without throwing the alignment off?

I'll be sure to stay away from using a breaker bar. I'm hoping to change my trailing arm bushing.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

If the torch doesn't work, your final option is to cut through either side of the bushing & bolt with a sawzall. Then replace the effected arm (compensator arm) and it's bolts. That is so long as you can get the remaining piece of bolt out of the nut hidden inside the chassis.

k3ntegra

Thanks for responding. But how much force should I attempt when trying to turn the bolt with a socket wrench?
I know using a 2ft breaker bar in this situation is unwise no matter what. I have a 6 inch 1/4 drive socket/as well as 14mm wrench.

afv91

Bringing this back from the dead but...

My rear toe is SEIZED. Car is a 2008 Civic Si coupe. I do work at a shop with an alignment rack, tools, torch, etc. However, we can't spend too much time on my car because "customer cars come first"

My corowrkers don't want to use too much heat because the rear toe adjusting bolt is inside of a bushing, and they don't want to melt the bushing.

I am looking for part numbers for the bushing but can't find it. Any help?

I'm using this website to get part numbers:

https://www.hondapartsnetwork.com/v-...rear-lower-arm

#22 Bolt, Trailing Arm Adjust
52387-SNA-A00

#23 Plate, Cam
52388-SNA-003

and #33 Nut, Lock Flange (Clinch)
90395-SNA-003

Just need the bushing, because at this point Chicago winters have corroded everything, and replacing seems like the best option.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Wrong car for this forum.