question on the new aem's engine position module???
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Re: question on the new aem's engine position module??? (djjosehernandez)
Do you have a standalone EMS? The sensor uses a hall effect vs the factory mag sensor, and I believe even the teeth count is different. So the EPM isn't going to work on the factory ECU no matter what software you have running on it.
Not only that but w/out a distributor you're going to need to convert to coil-on-plug or some other direct ignition setup. Again, the factory ECU only has one coil output so it's not capable no matter what chip or hack you may have performed.
Honda/Acura distributors suck. You have a cam sensor outputting a very weak signal right next to the internal coil which is outputting a very high voltage. Honda had to make special considerations with their ECU's to get it to work reliably. Aftermarket standalones don't have this, so what happens a lot of times is that you install a standalone and it wont sync eventhough it ran fine beforehand. Then you have to buy a new distributor.
When you get into the high RPM / high hp range, the factory ignition and cam sensor falls short and you hit a brick wall. You lose sync so your ignition timing is off or not firing at all, and then you have your high compression or boost in the combustion chamber literally blowing out the spark. The logical thing to do is replace the outdated and poor quality distributor with distributor-less ignition. This is where the EPM comes into play.
Before the EPM the only options were to custom make your own hall effect setup or buy one from tony.
Best example of the new EPM, EMS, and the AEM pencil coils is Bisimoto's car.
Not only that but w/out a distributor you're going to need to convert to coil-on-plug or some other direct ignition setup. Again, the factory ECU only has one coil output so it's not capable no matter what chip or hack you may have performed.
Honda/Acura distributors suck. You have a cam sensor outputting a very weak signal right next to the internal coil which is outputting a very high voltage. Honda had to make special considerations with their ECU's to get it to work reliably. Aftermarket standalones don't have this, so what happens a lot of times is that you install a standalone and it wont sync eventhough it ran fine beforehand. Then you have to buy a new distributor.
When you get into the high RPM / high hp range, the factory ignition and cam sensor falls short and you hit a brick wall. You lose sync so your ignition timing is off or not firing at all, and then you have your high compression or boost in the combustion chamber literally blowing out the spark. The logical thing to do is replace the outdated and poor quality distributor with distributor-less ignition. This is where the EPM comes into play.
Before the EPM the only options were to custom make your own hall effect setup or buy one from tony.
Best example of the new EPM, EMS, and the AEM pencil coils is Bisimoto's car.
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