on the distributor does it always give tdc and ckp signals to the ecu or is it only durring cranking of the motor?

B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal


because im only getting a voltage during cranking and zero volts once on then the motor turns off

 

well it should get volts while cranking and runnin, not when its shut off..

 

no the engine will shut off unless I floor it then it just sounds like a 1 cylinder and rpm under 1000. durring the running period it has zero volts, but when I was cranking it there was volts.


if I let off of the gas it will die.

 

You have a different problem.

Those are hall effect sensors, voltage will only be induced while the engine is running, and it will be a special AC waveform. What are you looking for there?

 

trying to determine if my distributor is bad, its a new unit from distributor king.

I have already tryed 2 different ecu's one with my hondata s300, and one with uberdata.

I have tryed stock map sensor, motorola 2.5bar, and an aem 3.5bar, all give the correct voltage

I have tryed 2 different tps's, both with correct voltage


the car ran perfect for 2 days, now won't stay on

 

they should have .5 when its running...


Modified by B16B_coupe at 8:35 AM 11/6/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they should have .5 volts when its running... </TD></TR></TABLE>

They don't output a DC voltage dude, that won't be consistent.

OP: Did you change anything right before it stopped working or did it just happen out of the blue?

Have you pulled all the plugs and checked for spark at all 4? Have you checked the timing belt? Have you checked the firing order?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

They don't output a DC voltage dude, that won't be consistent.

OP: Did you change anything right before it stopped working or did it just happen out of the blue?

Have you pulled all the plugs and checked for spark at all 4? Have you checked the timing belt? Have you checked the firing order?</TD></TR></TABLE>

try a different dizzy then, and how dont they have volts??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

try a different dizzy then, and how dont they have volts??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh lordy.

Volts are not specific to DC or AC circuits. Those sensors output an AC waveform, the DC value you get will be somewhat of a mean.

Read up on electronics a bit if you wish.

 

just happened out of the blue, I tryed 2 sets of new plugs, the firing order is the same as when it was running, the timming belt is perfetly on and new.
only problem is there arn't very many b-series to borrow stuff from around where I live. we don't even have an acura dealership


Im just checking sensors with a multimeter.

 

i didnt mean volts... but thats just what i typed...

 

bump

 

ttt

 

check for 12V at the injectors (yellow/black wire)
if it goes away your main relay needs attention

connect a timing light, let it sit in your lap with it on, start the car. If the light turns off as the car dies the you're after an ignition problem, if it keeps flashing till the engine stops spinning then it's fuel, compression or spark timing.

 

there is 12v power at the injectors and signal voltage to each of the rc1000 cc injectors, I have 2 main relays the current being new.

It is running solely on number 4

I can pull plug wire 1,2,3 and it will stay on the same with the gas floored , but will not start if 4 is pulled and 1,2,3 left on.
compression is 185 accross.

1,2,3,4 wire have spark when cranking and running as tested with a plug on wire out of motor


could a bad altenator cause this? what is the difinitive way to test a distributor.


the main relay can't cut fuel on my setup I have a aeromotive a1000 on a switched source with 40 psi pressure in the rail.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alexsracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is 12v power at the injectors and signal voltage to each of the rc1000 cc injectors, I have 2 main relays the current being new.

It is running solely on number 4

I can pull plug wire 1,2,3 and it will stay on the same with the gas floored , but will not start if 4 is pulled and 1,2,3 left on.
compression is 185 accross.

1,2,3,4 wire have spark when cranking and running as tested with a plug on wire out of motor


could a bad altenator cause this? what is the difinitive way to test a distributor.


the main relay can't cut fuel on my setup I have a aeromotive a1000 on a switched source with 40 psi pressure in the rail.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
with that, there is little that is individual for each cylinder.
plugs, wires, cap and injectors
aftermarket ignition system? (logically yes since you have 1000cc injectors you're aiming that big)

some parts stores offer the ability to test ignitors and coils. (autozone does for sure) but not the other things in the distributor.

without a o-scope it's difficult to test the distributor sensors, trying another distributor is always the easiest way to go there. If the car runs at all, even on one cylinder, the ECU should set a fault for a bad sensor in the distributor.

I highly doubt it's the alternator, it's only job is to charge the battery.

 

If you're getting spark to all 4 plugs, fuel to all 4 cylinders, and compression, timing is wrong.

 

the belt is correct, the timming if correct on hondata s300. I even flashed to stock program adjusted for the 1000cc's

 

need to get this fixed to prepare for the san antonio IFO in dec


Modified by alexsracing at 9:06 AM 11/8/2007

 

update I bought a 94 integra gsr, so I took off the dizzy and tryed it , same result, next ill try another set of injectors