Question about short shifters?
#26
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Re: (nyhustla2k)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nyhustla2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
trying buying a brand name one
i had a cheap one broke it
payed $48 shipped for a B&M and i luv it, and that bitch wont break for nothing</TD></TR></TABLE>
i secound that i shift the hell outa my car when i slam it from first 2nd and it hasnt broken, i paid 48$ also for a B&M i say go b&m cheap reliable and fast shifts
trying buying a brand name one
i had a cheap one broke it
payed $48 shipped for a B&M and i luv it, and that bitch wont break for nothing</TD></TR></TABLE>
i secound that i shift the hell outa my car when i slam it from first 2nd and it hasnt broken, i paid 48$ also for a B&M i say go b&m cheap reliable and fast shifts
#28
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (JdmB16Eg6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdmB16Eg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had DC ones</TD></TR></TABLE>
dc=aluminum= bend
b&m and skunk2 are steel. that's the difference
dc=aluminum= bend
b&m and skunk2 are steel. that's the difference
#31
be professional
Re: (JdmB16Eg6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdmB16Eg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">short shifters suck...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. That's why I have this:
I agree. That's why I have this:
#34
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Re: (Ricey McRicerton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice stonewashed jeans there Bon Jovi. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha... I've been looking for a setup like that? Who makes that peice?
Right now my shifter is about a hands length away from the steering wheel, and I don't want to increase the distance with a short shifter to save time on the shifts; so the regular ones don't seem to be of much benefit to me.
Haha... I've been looking for a setup like that? Who makes that peice?
Right now my shifter is about a hands length away from the steering wheel, and I don't want to increase the distance with a short shifter to save time on the shifts; so the regular ones don't seem to be of much benefit to me.
#35
be professional
Re: (AutoXer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha... I've been looking for a setup like that? Who makes that peice?
Right now my shifter is about a hands length away from the steering wheel, and I don't want to increase the distance with a short shifter to save time on the shifts; so the regular ones don't seem to be of much benefit to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fastline Performance Road Race shifter - http://www.fastlineperformance.com/shifter.htm
Makes the one shift that you have to do on most autocross courses much easier to grab
I have yet to miss a gear with it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice stonewashed jeans there Bon Jovi. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's glare from the flash, smartass
Right now my shifter is about a hands length away from the steering wheel, and I don't want to increase the distance with a short shifter to save time on the shifts; so the regular ones don't seem to be of much benefit to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fastline Performance Road Race shifter - http://www.fastlineperformance.com/shifter.htm
Makes the one shift that you have to do on most autocross courses much easier to grab
I have yet to miss a gear with it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice stonewashed jeans there Bon Jovi. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's glare from the flash, smartass
#36
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Re: (Targa250R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Makes the one shift that you have to do on most autocross courses much easier to grab
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was thinking Although, on some of the tight parking lot courses, my tourqeless wonder needs 1st, but I never go for it because it takes too long.
Makes the one shift that you have to do on most autocross courses much easier to grab
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was thinking Although, on some of the tight parking lot courses, my tourqeless wonder needs 1st, but I never go for it because it takes too long.
#37
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Re: (BLUE EH3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUE EH3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can u just cut ur stock shifter ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cutting the shifter will only make the shifter sit lower and will not change the throw for shifting. What changes the throw is the position of the ball on the shifter..that changes the pivot on the shifter. But my Skunk2 single bend SS with a spoon shift **** and energy bushings is quite lovely
Cutting the shifter will only make the shifter sit lower and will not change the throw for shifting. What changes the throw is the position of the ball on the shifter..that changes the pivot on the shifter. But my Skunk2 single bend SS with a spoon shift **** and energy bushings is quite lovely
#38
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Re: (dawrenn)
i got a bm shifter and now sometimes it will just rattle when i step on the gas and it is really anoing. but i dont know if this is a comon problem with them but other than that i love it i also have energy suspention bushings
#39
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short shifters do not increase the speed of shifting unless your slow as hell at shifting..
a tranny can only shift into gear so fast, and im SURE anyone can make the stock shifter shift that fast....
a tranny can only shift into gear so fast, and im SURE anyone can make the stock shifter shift that fast....
#40
Mr. Indecisive
Re: (Slow_CvC99)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow_CvC99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i secound that i shift the hell outa my car when i slam it from first 2nd and it hasnt broken, i paid 48$ also for a B&M i say go b&m cheap reliable and fast shifts</TD></TR></TABLE>
keep slammin gears like that n ur shifter will last alot longer than ur trans will
i secound that i shift the hell outa my car when i slam it from first 2nd and it hasnt broken, i paid 48$ also for a B&M i say go b&m cheap reliable and fast shifts</TD></TR></TABLE>
keep slammin gears like that n ur shifter will last alot longer than ur trans will
#41
Re: (BrokeAssPinoy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrokeAssPinoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm sorry to burst your bubbles mr. dick but it isn't the length of where the shift **** goes to the one that affects the shifting travel... why don't you cut your stock shift **** as I had in the past thinking that the travel would be shorter? It's actually the length below the ball that affects the shifting travel... why do you think some short shifters hit the exhaust? coz the length at the bottom becomes longer thus shortening the throws of the linkage from syncro to syncro</TD></TR></TABLE>
..a.\......../.b
....c.\..../.d
.........\/
........./\
......./....\
the distance between c&d is shorter..... bottom line... with the angle that it is at it moves the bottom of the shifter the same amout with less travel on the top(ie:short shifter) adding to the bottom of the shifter does the same thing.... basicly what you are trying to do is change the leverage which both ways do.... the most common way is to add to the bottom because cutting from the top puts the shifter farther away from the driver but its is still none the less possible
*pop* yeah that was your bubble
..a.\......../.b
....c.\..../.d
.........\/
........./\
......./....\
the distance between c&d is shorter..... bottom line... with the angle that it is at it moves the bottom of the shifter the same amout with less travel on the top(ie:short shifter) adding to the bottom of the shifter does the same thing.... basicly what you are trying to do is change the leverage which both ways do.... the most common way is to add to the bottom because cutting from the top puts the shifter farther away from the driver but its is still none the less possible
*pop* yeah that was your bubble
#42
Re: (jeffk182)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeffk182 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cutting the shifter will only make the shifter sit lower and will not change the throw for shifting. What changes the throw is the position of the ball on the shifter..that changes the pivot on the shifter. But my Skunk2 single bend SS with a spoon shift **** and energy bushings is quite lovely </TD></TR></TABLE>
cutting the top does change the position of the ball..... more % of the shifter below the ball than there was before because there is less % on the top.... which is the same thing adding length to the bottom will do it just adds more & of the shifter to below the ball just because the ball doesnt move up on the shifter does not mean that the that the shift throw doesnt change
Cutting the shifter will only make the shifter sit lower and will not change the throw for shifting. What changes the throw is the position of the ball on the shifter..that changes the pivot on the shifter. But my Skunk2 single bend SS with a spoon shift **** and energy bushings is quite lovely </TD></TR></TABLE>
cutting the top does change the position of the ball..... more % of the shifter below the ball than there was before because there is less % on the top.... which is the same thing adding length to the bottom will do it just adds more & of the shifter to below the ball just because the ball doesnt move up on the shifter does not mean that the that the shift throw doesnt change
#43
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I'm using the B&M race version with the built on bushing. It feels solid, with a decrease in throw around 55%.
The only drawback to using a SS without a bend is that even with my long arms I had to reach to shift, but after couple of months I don't even think about it any more.
One issue I encountered was the rattling of the custom piping against the bottom of the shifter. I just lowered the exhaust hangers and voila, no more knocking.
The only drawback to using a SS without a bend is that even with my long arms I had to reach to shift, but after couple of months I don't even think about it any more.
One issue I encountered was the rattling of the custom piping against the bottom of the shifter. I just lowered the exhaust hangers and voila, no more knocking.
#45
Member
Re: (all*motor*d16z6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all*motor*d16z6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
cutting the top does change the position of the ball..... more % of the shifter below the ball than there was before because there is less % on the top.... which is the same thing adding length to the bottom will do it just adds more & of the shifter to below the ball just because the ball doesnt move up on the shifter does not mean that the that the shift throw doesnt change </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is correct, although you will still have much shorter throws with an aftermarket one than a cut stock shifter. Personally, I think the bushings are more important than the shifter. while the shifter saves you .01 of a second in shifts, the bushings will give you a better feel and reduce misshifts. BTW, if you go skunk2, get their shift **** too, its designed (weighted) for their shifter, and the throws are much better with it.
cutting the top does change the position of the ball..... more % of the shifter below the ball than there was before because there is less % on the top.... which is the same thing adding length to the bottom will do it just adds more & of the shifter to below the ball just because the ball doesnt move up on the shifter does not mean that the that the shift throw doesnt change </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is correct, although you will still have much shorter throws with an aftermarket one than a cut stock shifter. Personally, I think the bushings are more important than the shifter. while the shifter saves you .01 of a second in shifts, the bushings will give you a better feel and reduce misshifts. BTW, if you go skunk2, get their shift **** too, its designed (weighted) for their shifter, and the throws are much better with it.
#46
Re: (Ricey McRicerton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice stonewashed jeans there Bon Jovi. </TD></TR></TABLE>
#47
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Re: (EgRedSi)
I have a B&M duel bend an so far I like it. I had the rattle too but mine wasn't the exhaust it was the cheesy little bushings they sent with the kit. All I did was run down to the hardware store and buy different O-rings about the same size as the factory ones and BINGO no more rattle. I bought three different sizes so I have no clue what the exact sizes were but those with the same problem mite try it.
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