Dekorum

Hmm, Ron usually knows what he is talking about. What are the common symptoms of bad main relay solder joints? Is it no start? My problem is no-crank, and I should probably fix that in my thread title and OP.

I will definitely do the ignition continuity tests when the problem occurs again. The thing is that this problem occurs so irregularly that it is difficult to test. The problem occurred once or twice this year so far and not once in the past week since I posted on July 2nd.


So you said the ignition switch problems can be intermittent, Ron, but how is the issue caused by heat? I am CERTAIN that heat is what is causing this no crank condition.

Jarvis, thanks for the help so far. By the way, I know that the main relay is not hard to get to. A few years ago I took it out and resoldered it just to prevent any future problems because at the time it was a common topic on here. Never really changed anything because I never had a problem with it.

Dekorum

Correction to my last post... I am CERTAIN that this issue is not caused by heat. Yes, heat may be correlated to the problem but not the cause of it. My car has been in storage for a couple months and I had a friend go start it up (obviously the car/engine is not hot in this case) and the same problem occurred. Took a minute of trying to turn the key (each time, the main relay clicking one time) before it finally cranked and started.

I am thinking of just replacing the main relay with a brand new one when I return to get the car out of storage.

Does it sound like this might solve the issue completely whereby it does not occur intermittently anymore? I have resoldered my main relay about 3-4 years ago but that did not change a thing, as far as I know.

Looks like this guy said the same exact things as me, and never fixed the problem apparently: http://www.clubcivic.com/forum/threa...oblems.120104/

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

You'll have to do the correct diagnostic procedures, as tony stated previously.

However, don't believe that OEM starters can't die. Patently untrue. Get it out of your head and diagnose your vehicle without bias. I've had one die before on me, it left me stranded.

I have had a similar problem as this before. Intermittent no-start. It was my starter crapping out on me. Replaced (while on a long road trip in a hotel parking lot, I might add) and it's been as good as gold since.

CivicSwap54

You need a starter because yours is locking up. If you hit it with a hammer it will unlock it and start with the key.

Dekorum

Unfortunately, I have diagnosed the car as Tony stated. While holding the key On and pumping the clutch, I do hear the click every time (therefore my clutch switch is functioning). I also have tapped the starter many times before and this does not help the car crank at all. Still takes its sweet old time (x number of key turns)...
Frustrating.

What kind of starter did you replace with deschlong? I hate non-OEM parts, but the OEM starters are damn expensive.

Former User

Use a battery jumper cable to jump the (+) battery post directly to the large starter motor terminal. Does the engine start every time now?

Dekorum

So you want me to check if the positive battery terminal to large starter motor terminal cable is the culprit?
I will check this next.

keep in mind that part of the reason this problem is so hard to diagnose is that is INTERMITTENT. If I did this test, and then the car started right away, this would not tell me anything about the problem. The car starts up perfectly fine on its own 9 times out of 10 anyway...

Former User

Yes

Agreed. Intermittent problems are definitely the trickiest to diagnose.