NOTUNINGNONADA

Here is whats going on...one day i had good brakes...did a clutch swap then as i was driving i smelt something burning and also felt the car moving slower. when i got home my right front wheel was egg frying hot...i changed the brake hose, the caliper, pads, master and slave cylinder..bled the brakes completely..still the caliper wont retract when the brake pedal is pressed or when i am rolling..i need to solve this problem and any help would do...thanks

CAR: 1993 4 DOOR EX-A HONDA CIVIC W/ABS 4 WHEEL DISCS

Romo Pyro

sticky piston, disassemble and clean and lube it.

Former User

Check for a seized caliper slide pin.

NOTUNINGNONADA

When changing out these parts i also did new hardware kits....new pins, new retainers, and greases and lubed....

Former User

You may have a clogged brake line running to that caliper.

NOTUNINGNONADA

if it was a clogged how is fluid getting to the caliper? i can open the bleeder valve and fluid comes out..

someone told me that possibly the abs sensor for that wheel went bad the magnetic pulsating signal that the ring send thru the sensor to the pump is making it unaware to retrack the fluid to that side...

96dxcrapbox

almost sounds like you had one issue, a sticking caliper?? and by throwing so many parts at the problem you have accidentally introduced a "new" bad part????
at this point i would diagnose the problem instead of spending any more money.

get the brake to lock up
start at the caliper loosen the bleeder up.
did the caliper unlock?
if the caliper loosened up (and fluid came squirting out as opposed to a dribble)
then you still have pressure in the line somewhere.
if the caliper is still locked you have a bad caliper.

if there was pressure in the line when you cracked the bleeder your problem is further up the line.

lock the brake up again and open up the brake line right where the rubber line meets the steel line.
did the caliper loosen up ?
if it did not then you have a bad rubber line
if it did then you need to proceed to the next junction
i doubt the prop valve is an issue but you never know. work your way up to the master cylinder in this fashion .

if you make it all the way to the master cylinder and still have an issue the test here is a little bit different lock up the brakes and then loosen the bolts that hold the master to the booster. did the caliper loosen? if it did then you have a master with an internal issue, the wrong master or your push rod is too long.
if it stayed locked after you loosened the master cylinder retaining nuts loosen the line that goes to that caliper. if it frees up then you have a bad master.

sorry for the long post, hope this helps

Damanzi

1. try adjusting the push rod and if that fails then

2. replace your bake booster

3. thank me

i would say ask me how i know, but i think you know how i know

NOTUNINGNONADA

What will happen if i disconnect all power going to the ABS MODULE??