socialistic

iTrader: (2)

I've been having this issue since I finished the car. Swapped in a d16y7 from a '99, repaired/replaced a bunch of stuff, etc to make it my new daily. As far as I know the car has always had this problem. I swapped in the dome light from the '99 parts car which did not fix the issue.

The Off and middle switch settings work as intended. If the switch is turned on, nothing happens. If switch is in middle, a door is opened, and the light is on and then I switch it to on then the light goes off even though a door is still open.

I did swap in a new single-din head unit but it's my understanding that this isn't the problem if this wasn't a power-locks car, and I don't believe it was. Could this still be the issue? I honestly don't remember if I had the dome light issue before the head unit swap.

Former User

It's likely caused by a bad switch, which grounds voltage locally. Test the switch with a multimeter.

socialistic

iTrader: (2)

So I found two things that may or may not be relevant. This is with the car off, doors closed, dome light removed.

1. Of the two dome light wires that come down from the headliner, the green has no voltage and the white reads normal voltage. This is using the dome light mounting screw point as my ground during testing. The green wire still did not have voltage when I would open a door with a known-good door switch. The white wire's voltage did not change with door open or closed.

2. I found a pair of wires, each with a 20a fuse in-line, running from plugs on the fuse block up the left side of the dash, up behind the pillar cover, to somewhere above the headliner. When I pull either of those in-line fuses the sunroof stops working. I do not know why the previous owner did this or if this has anything to do with the dome light.

I tried running the continuity tests on the old, dirtier dome light but was not getting consistent results. Haven't run the test on the cleaner dome light yet, but both dome lights offer the same results when installed/used.

socialistic

iTrader: (2)

Just ran that continuity test on the cleaner dome light, it passed.

Former User

Post some pictures showing how you do the tests.

Also test the installed light housing for continuity to body ground because, as I mentioned earlier, that particular light switch position grounds locally.

socialistic

iTrader: (2)

I performed the tests per those instructions, using the second housing diagram on the right side under "Sedan" where the contact labeled 2' is in the bottom right corner of the housing diagram since that is what I am working with. This was using a known good multimeter set to test continuity. The old dome light housing was testing inconsistently due to tarnished contacts.

Once I get some coffee in me I'll run outside and test that ground. Is it normal that the green wire has no voltage, and white wire always has voltage?