AJWatUC

0w30 synthetic oil anyone use it if so what brand? Are you happy with heard any bad stories about it? I have a 99 civic with 120k miles on my D16y5 I'm thinking about using it but want to hear from people who have used it already. Thanks for any info.

Frickr

0w30 is WAY to thin for a daily driver. but for track use, amsoil, moble1 are both good

scuzz

What weight is recommended for 150-200k honda motors?
I've also thought about changing over to synthetic.

spray_bombed

older hondas call for 5w30...but above the 150k mark...personally I'd stick with 10w30...and x2 on the 0w30 way too thin for a dd

AJWatUC

I currently use high mileage valvoline 5w30 synthetic

batallic

^^ same here

SOHC_civic_si

I completely disagree with everyone here. My engine as 174 000 kilometers not miles and i use amsoil 0-30. all i have to say is that it is amazing. ive used almost every other synthetic oil (which is the ONLY way to go for the BEST engine protection) ranging from pennzoil platinum, castrol syntec, mobile1, quakerstate horsepower, enoes 0-50, and some others i cant remember. as long as your engine does not leak or burn any oil than your good. it would be a good idea to use 10-30 or high mileage if your engine leaks oil or burns since syn oil is much thinner, thus allowing it to lubricate your motor better than conventional. i do not find 0-30 to thin, and its works AMAZING in the winter time for cold starting

batallic

my car has 261000 km, and runs nice

count me out

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_civic_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I completely disagree with everyone here. My engine as 174 000 kilometers not miles and i use amsoil 0-30. all i have to say is that it is amazing. ive used almost every other synthetic oil (which is the ONLY way to go for the BEST engine protection) ranging from pennzoil platinum, castrol syntec, mobile1, quakerstate horsepower, enoes 0-50, and some others i cant remember. as long as your engine does not leak or burn any oil than your good. it would be a good idea to use 10-30 or high mileage if your engine leaks oil or burns since syn oil is much thinner, thus allowing it to lubricate your motor better than conventional. i do not find 0-30 to thin, and its works AMAZING in the winter time for cold starting </TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry chief, but synthetic is NOT better than castor blends, it simply lasts longer because synthetic molecules dont get sheared inbetween moving parts as fast or as easily as conventional. your motor actually loves castor based oil, as long as you change it every 3k or sooner.

what makes one brand better than the other are the detergents and additives and i highly recommend AGAINST switching from conventional to synthetic and vise versa at anytime during your engines life, especially on a high mileage motor. your seals and internals have a friendship with the particular oil youve been using and will be heartbroken if you switch. in return for you [freak]ing with their feelings, seals will start pissing oil and you may encounter other problems. the time to switch from conventional to synthetic is within the first 3 or 4 oil changes of your engines life, but always START with castor blends, the parts tend to seat and get cozy better.

killmeamerika

i use royal purple 5w 30 w/ lucas sythetic oil stabilizer the stuff is great wouldnt recomend usising 0w 30 though its just a lil to thin

elektronsi

x2 on 0-30 too thin, ill stick with my mobil 1 10-w30 full synthetic

Momentum

I use Pennzoil 10w30 synthetic

mormonboy

stick to 5w-30 or 10w-30.

riceburnerryan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by count me out &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sorry chief, but synthetic is NOT better than castor blends, it simply lasts longer because synthetic molecules dont get sheared inbetween moving parts as fast or as easily as conventional. your motor actually loves castor based oil, as long as you change it every 3k or sooner.

what makes one brand better than the other are the detergents and additives and i highly recommend AGAINST switching from conventional to synthetic and vise versa at anytime during your engines life, especially on a high mileage motor. your seals and internals have a friendship with the particular oil youve been using and will be heartbroken if you switch. in return for you [freak]ing with their feelings, seals will start pissing oil and you may encounter other problems. the time to switch from conventional to synthetic is within the first 3 or 4 oil changes of your engines life, but always START with castor blends, the parts tend to seat and get cozy better. </TD></TR></TABLE>

some people do switch and i was told that if you go from conventional to synthetic blend and then synthetic it would be ok but you will have to always keep using synthetic after that... most of my friends that did this was due to the fact that they were going turbo tho

gibsanez

Can someone explain to me how switching to synthetic can cause leaks?

scuzz

Wow, so many opinions. That's one reason I like this site.
I am leaning toward going from 10w30 Penzoil to 10W30 Mobil 1. With 197000 miles on my DX, I hope it is not a disaster.

B18C5-EH2

Talking about engine oil is like asking what music is the best. Everyone will have his own very strong opinion, and nobody's definately right or wrong.

Having said that I'd never run something as thin as 0W30. Might as well use Johnson's (cause the it's the best brand y0!) baby oil.

My own opinion based on my personal experience is that Mobil 1 synthitec 5W30 has proven to be awesome for my B18C5 in terms of it having never leaked a single drop of oil from anywhere - ever. The downside is that it burned more oil when I ran the Mobil 1. I've since switched to regular Pennzoil 5W30 and still no leaks (but haven't used it for very long) but have noticed less oil burning.

Anyways have fun with this potential 10 page topic.

Honda Civstine

ok I cant stand the Ignorance for every single person that said anything about thick or thin THERE IS TWO NUMBERS ON THE OIL ex 5 - 30 the first number is the weight before motor is warm 10w30 is ok ONLY if your car will never be below 40 I would highly recommend sticking with 5w as it will ensure that your motor is protected. I am a huge honda fan but lets be honest its sill a 4 cyl starting thick will only cause premature wear. I am going to experiment with the 0w30 my self as missouri has unpredictable weather and for those that say too thin You should allow your engine to warm before driving. once warm its still 30, if you are a start and go driver dont use 0w nless your car sais it on the cap oh last thing i highly suggest syn oils HOW EVER CONVENTIONAL OIL AND SYN OIL HAS THE SAME BASE STOCK the amount of additives differ there is no reason that any harm can come if you switch from one to the other or use a BLEND lol thats literatley the two mixed together

Ohmega

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for updating this 8 year old thread. I'm sure your insight into which oil is best for use in Missouri will awaken all these members from their slumber.