The Neutron

It was going past 3500 a few days ago but not now. I have a new cap, rotor and coil. I just put 5.3 gallons of 91 into it. Ran it a little but im going to let the fuel mix and run the fuel out of the lines tomorrow and see if it helped.

The Neutron

So me and my dad were thinking as to why the cars doing this. It all kinda started after i had hooked up the warming hose to the throttle body. It was plugged before. Heres the posts link. https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/throttle-body-hose-3235716/. Could the coolant be causing something with the throttle body to limit the rpms when it warms up? Tomorrow i will try plugging the hose again just to see.

tony_2018

NO

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Remember what I said about you coming to US for help? If you aren't going to listen, and aren't going to do simple, basic tests, then we cannot, and will not help you. We aren't motor psychics. This is the last time I'll say that. "I live in a small town" isn't an excuse. You have an Autozone/Advance Auto/O'rileys/NAPA somewhere within distance to get a ride from a friend. Go buy/borrow/rent a DEI/HEI spark tester and a compression tester. If the people you are talking to don't know what spark color is, they aren't the kind of people you want to talk to about engine diagnostics. If your spark is not bright white, or white with a hint of blue, then you have an ignition problem. If your compression numbers are below 145, or not within 5% of each other, you have an engine problem.

You came to us for diagnostic help. We are trying to help you, and you are fighting against us. Keep it up, and if history is any indicator, a moderator will put you in your place in short order. We've been trying to help you for what, a week now? By now, you could have bought the tools online, had them shipped to you, and done the tests. Instead, you're questioning our diagnostic prowess. This forum wouldn't still be standing for as long as it has if we didn't know what we're talking about. Do yourself a favor - listen to us.

Painfully wrong. Spark testers exist for a reason. Doing it that way is a quick way to fry a coil or ICM. You also don't unplug the injectors - you remove the fuse.

If you're just going to throw parts at the car with zero diagnostic effort, why did you even bother creating one thread, let alone two?

The Neutron

Compression, fuel pressure or "spark color" would have nothing to do with it not going past 3500rpms so im not going to rent the tools

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Since you seem to know so much about diagnostics, how about you just go ahead and ask a mod to lock your thread, log out, and go fix it yourself. You obviously don't actually want our help.

tony_2018

Small town or not us internet members can only do so much since you can't do any verification tests.

The Neutron

I know enough to know that even with bad compression the motor would still run but like sh*t.

Fuel pressure it would just run lean then thats when you break sh*t.

Even with fouled plugs you would have minor power loss and still go above 3500rpms.

The distributor cap, rotor and coil had to be replaced so that wasnt a waist.

It cant be ignition related or fuel related. It has to be electrical. Either my ECU, a sensor or a relay. All my fuses and grounds are good.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It's not even that he can't, he refuses to. He seems to think we have some magical "solve all of your problems" bullet, with absolutely zero diagnostic effort. The rest of us know it doesn't work that way, but evidently he doesn't.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

...And what the **** do you think those electronics control? Hint: The things we're telling you to test. You have to start at step 1, and you're refusing to do so.

Lock it up.

Former User

OP, please take the advice. It may sound harsh, but you are being pointed in the right directions.

timetosleep

First and foremost @notaracist, you sir are a dushbag, second your problem sounds to me like you may have a clogged exhaust system, if the car has a cat of some kind and it has been dumping excessive fuel into the exhaust system it would cause the internals of the catalytic converter to melt cloging up the system, a quick way to check is to run a open header, if this is the case, you may have additional problems like a leaky injector, a cylindr misfire due to a bad plug etc, if the exhaust system is clogged the CEL would not go on due to the vehicle not registering a problem say like a bad O2 sensor, misfire would set the CEL but depending on actual problem it also may not, anyway do that and see what happens.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I'm gonna let you sit on that post for a minute and realize all of the mistakes you made. Hint: OBD2B ECU.

timetosleep

Wanted to clear up my message from earlier, undo exhaust after header and before catalytic converter, if engine runs "normal" you found the reason it runs the way it does however there is still a problem with too much fuel being dumped into cylinder which can be a misfire or a leaky injector or perhaps it could be in the tune.

timetosleep

Doesn't matter if it's obd2 or 1 a clogged exhaust is a clogged exhaust I don't care what kind of car or on board diagnostics system I could have a freaking carburetor for all I care if it has a fuel consumption problem and a catalytic converter this problem can happen in any scenario

Former User

General thread comment:

Please redirect all input and comments in this thread to the OP, not to other members.

OP - You have been given many reasonable suggestions. It's time for you to do the suggested tests and then report back.

The Neutron

Thank you! Some agrees with me about him.. ill try it. And @notaracist if its the sensors then there would be CEL but there isnt so i have absolutely no clue what it is but to me i dont see how any of the things you want me to test are related to the problem

Former User

Not all sensor faults register as CEL codes. Start listening and learning rather than dismissing as you have much to learn about these cars. If this bickering continues, I will lock this thread.

The Neutron

Unbolted at the header and she runs fine. Let her warm up and she goes past 3500rpms. So i take it i need a new catalytic converter? :/

timetosleep

Man I knew it, yes you need a new converter however you're not out of the woods yet, the reason it melted is because you have a fuel issue, basically unburnt fuel is going into the exhaust system and when it accumulates in the converter it's getting really hot which will melt the guts of the converter, you have a fuel issue, I would look at the injectors, a leaky injector would cause no CEL and a melted converter, now with that said I'm assuming we don't have a cylinder or multiple cylinder misfire "this should set a code like I said not always tho" if you have a misfire it's more than likely ignition and not fuel, also the tune you are running might be to rich for the motor, if you have a stock tune this would not be the issue, but if no miss fire, stock tune than fuel pressure regulator and injectors, if you put a new converter and you don't fix actual issue than the same thing will happen over and over, glad to help man, if you have additional question feel free to ask me I'm a ASE certified tech for 10 yrs.

The Neutron

Thanks! Ill have to check my fuel ratio and the injectors. And can i just say to @notaracist i told you so!

Former User

You were warned.