adriansvarela

So my cars been running good for as long as i can remember. I have it pretty low to the point where most jacks won't fit under the car, but i don't think this would affect the engine. We even recently took a trip to ruidoso from el paso and had ice coolers, fishing rods, luggage, and three passengers. all on my litle 1.7L and it still rode great! Now just two days ago I picked up my cousin and his friend having car problems and on our way home, i turned on the a/c and on the freeway and continued to run good for a bit, then out of no where my car starts to sputter and turns off. powersteering and everything...This was a real surprise to me...after I pulled over I tried starting it again and it was in "limp mode". where it would have a really hard time reaching higher rpm's and would sputter and make popping sounds out the muffler, sorta like a shitty rev limiter. -_- car starts no problem...its getting it to rev high that was tough even if i floored it. so i disconnected the battery for a few minutes and let it cool down. then i tried it again and it worked! So we got back on the road but about ten minutes later it happened again!

I was too worried about my car so we had someone ELSE pick us up...btw this happened about a week ago when i also had about 3 passenger in my ride after i dropped them off...The car runs fine when it's just me or even me and my cousin. but when I put like 3 people, the engine gets weak and will shut off...what could cause this!?

other things you should know: temp gauge is always in the middle on a cold start, then i drive down the street and its on full hot...it will be on full hot the rest of the day, but I doubt my engine is overheating. I just did a full oil change and flushed out the radiator and replaced with new coolant. Hopefully this will help a bit. But i'm wondering of maybe a gasket or sensor is bad or maybe if my freakin ecu is fried...help a brother out and thank you so much for your time I just changed the accessory belts and it has a brand new battery. there is a fuse that says BACK LIGHT under hood that i cannot place a fuse there, otherwise it will blow automatically or start smoking. my car has about 147,000 miles...i haven't changed the timing belt since it was bought and i drive ALOT. car only has header, short ram, and catback with a new cat and downpipe.

instead of wasting money on parts that i'm not sure of, i'd like your guys' imput...!

GriFFIthS

did the check engine light come on when it went in limp mode?
go get the codes read, that will tell you where to start with finding the problem.

adriansvarela

nope, no check engine light. and my obdII is fried i think...won't work when i take it in...and i don't know how to fix it....

anibis

Since you just changed the drive belts make sure the alternator bolts are tight. Loose bolts (usually the long bolt) can fry an ECU. You can try wiggling around the alternator and see if it moves, I know it's a pain to check those bolts.

When you connect your OBDII does it not connect? That is a sign of a fried ECU. Either test it on another car or get another scanner and see if you can connect.

How long have you had the temp issue? If it's been like that for awhile I'd test the coolant temp sensor.

adriansvarela

Thank you so much for your input!
-I made sure I tightened the bolts but i'll definitly make sure again! if they were loose, wouldn't it squeal like crazy? (thats why i replaced them in the first place)
-I personally don't have an obdII device, but i've taken it to o reiley's and autozone several times and it can never detect even a signal of power from my car.
-i honestly believe it has something to do with the cluster, everything works except the temperature. It's been faulty since 4 years ago, but i never had a problem so I ignored it. if you could be so kind to tell me how to test the coolant temp sensor i'td be much appreciated. I checked the thermostat when flushing the coolant and the top radiator hose gets warm after a while....so i don't think its that

again thank you!

anibis

-I made sure I tightened the bolts but i'll definitly make sure again! if they were loose, wouldn't it squeal like crazy? (thats why i replaced them in the first place)

Not if the top bolt (the long one) is loose.

-I personally don't have an obdII device, but i've taken it to o reiley's and autozone several times and it can never detect even a signal of power from my car.

This is a sign of a fried computer.

-i honestly believe it has something to do with the cluster, everything works except the temperature. It's been faulty since 4 years ago, but i never had a problem so I ignored it. if you could be so kind to tell me how to test the coolant temp sensor i'td be much appreciated. I checked the thermostat when flushing the coolant and the top radiator hose gets warm after a while....so i don't think its that

Yeah the cluster would make more sense since it still moves like it should, just starts in a different position. Only concern would be for if it actually does overheat...

You can do a cluster test using the following procedure:
1. Push and hold the trip/reset button
2. Turn the lighting switch on
3. Turn the ignition to ON(II)
4. Within 5 seconds, turn the lighting switch OFF, then ON and OFF again
5. Within 5 seconds, release the trip/reset button, then push and release the button 4 times

The beeper sounds 5 times. Then all the indicators blink. Then the odo/trip segment blinks 5 times. Then all the needles sweep from min to max back to min. Then it will run a communications check and display either all 8's or the word error. 8's are good, error means the connection between the cluster and ECM/PCM is bad. If anything doesn't work properly in test mode replace the cluster.

Basik_One

Is the green key light stay on while car is on?

adriansvarela

@anibis thanks so much for the help, i did the cluster test and got all 8888888s...it's just that the needles were out of wack..i fixed it and it seems to read great now!....but i think i may have found the mechanical problem to my car... fml -_- :



I've never had this happen to me before...can this be welded back into working condition? or does it have to be replaced. I'm a college boy and can't afford much at the moment. Other than this My temperature gauge is fixed, but i still think my ecu is fried...one thing that may have done it was my odd foglight wiring, but thats another issue...this is what's on my mind now...any suggestions?

anibis

Did you check the alternator bolts? Check all 3 just to be sure.

I highly doubt the foglight wiring would cause the ECU to fry. The alternator is connected directly to the ECU so it can monitor the voltage, this is why it can fry it.

I'm sure you can get the header welded, you may have to take it off though.

anibis

That fuse that keeps blowing under the hood, are you sure it's not the "BACK UP" fuse? It's fuse #9 on my Civic, 10A. Prob the same on yours.

I could not find a "BACK LIGHT" fuse under the hood on my car...

adriansvarela

sorry i haven't responded in forever..my internet was down for quite a while...and yes! it does say "back up". its weird....should i have tapped my foglights into my parking lights? and now im experiencing having a rough start up sometimes...this is after the engine has been running and is hot...then i get back in the car with a passanger and it will sometimes struggle to start then die. I've used fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank...but don't think it fixed the problem :/ I just hate that my obdII doesn't work...guess i'll have to take it in :/ and btw my header wasn't cracked! it was just the flange...but nothing between the the piping

faded215

Reduced power mode sounds like your issue. Start from the tps and work back to the PCM. The pins 16 and 17 are usually ground to the PCM at the DLC. Do not use a test light because if you don't have a fried PCM that definitely will do it. Checking inputs to it will do it. Back probe the tps sensor and it would range from .5 to 4.5 wot.

adriansvarela

lots of acronyms hehe...im assuming you mean throttle position sensor? and track the wires back to the PCM? i wouldn't have a clue where the PCM is...under steering wheel? passanger side? what pins? i have no clue what a test light is and have no experiencing in back probing...would this be it? http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OA5UERVgGQ...0/DSC01732.JPG

im 19 yo college kid learning...go easy on me hehe. thanks for the help!

faded215

Hah alright if your having problems get a diagram find the sensor, these things are usually three wire sensors can be more than three if coolant cooled. This will be on your throttle body. Might wanna google up a wiring diagram you should have a wire for Reference voltage, Signal ,ground.

Get a T-Pin or needle and while the connector is plugged run it between the wire and little rubber grommet that will be in ther( not the insulation don't create an open)till it bottoms. Then get a volt meter ground one lead to the engine attach one to the T pin inserted. Then play with the throttle you should see a fluctuation while it moves.

Record them and report back, if you wanna save money and I'm willing to help run it all types of tests before you go ahead and start blowing money on unnecessary ****. Oh and the 5V ref can be different on separate models but most cars use a baseline. So its possible it can be lower or higher.