ReedMann

iTrader: (11)

DIY tuck harness for the win! I had the same thought when I did mine haha.

crx_si-r

DIY are easy, feel free to pm me for some pointers: this is mine for my crx:
http://youtu.be/CYAh5dZLx5A

Builda'Teg_92

easy uh? lol. That harness is one piece to the ecu, i want that. Hmmmmm....im pretty determined but just can picture it in my head. Hook up every sensor where it belongs then de-pin everything from the main fat plugs, then just follow a pin out that matches the same spots on the ecu side? if that makes sence.

pata

iTrader: (2)

came out clean man. I just stripped some wrinkle red out a B16a2 vc. I'm going to paint it wrinkle Red again. I'll post to see how it came out. It's for a buddy not for me

crx_si-r

thats pretty much it. run 90% of engine wiring directly to the ecu. then the other 10% go to the chassis harness.

well its easy for me because i use new pins and dont depin and repin them. run the wires about 5ft long, sleeve it, add labels. join them up and make a chassis sub harness and add in new ecu pins to new ecu plugs. n im done. less headache because i use different color wires for everything except the common wires like powers and grounds.

ReedMann

iTrader: (11)

I'm about to redo my harness and have a couple questions. Where do you buy the new pins? Do you have to have a crimping tool with new pins? When you say 5 feet, is that the length of the harness where all the wires are together and it runs through the firewall? Could you explain to me the purpose of these plugs below and what you do with them when making a harness? Thanks in advance for any help.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Just let it dry out real good for a few days before you bake it, and follow the directions on the can exactly. It didn't stink up the house at all for me... well maybe a tiny bit, not even enough to **** off the lady though.

Thanks! I stuck with the non-vtec because I was just looking for a nice daily motor with great midrange, I couldn't be happier with the setup.

- I got all of my pins shells and grommets through www.newunitedracetech.com. They sell in small quantities and their cusatomer service is pretty good. You'll have to look around to figure out exactly what you need, but your ecu side is all AMP and your engine side plugs are all Sumitomo. Its tedious to pick through, but there is a cad rendering of every single shell and you can use those to match up with whatever plugs you need to replace. The obd2 ecu pins were AMP MultiLock series 070II and 040II for 18-22awg while the engine side were Sumitomo sealed series 090.

- You shouldn't need anything special for a crimper, these pins are all pretty pedestrian and design to be serviceable by the average dealer technician. Just make sure you're not using one of those worthless ones from the parts store. Find something with a decent crimping jaw on them. I use these ones that I've had for years, they're just labeled "Super Crimper" and they do the job quite well for a basic crimp tool:



- I'm not sure what you mean by your third question

- Those are power and ground distribution. You can keep the plugs (I did) or bundle and solder the wires together. If you pop the blind sides of the connectors off, you can see which wires are meant to be connected to each other. Do not just connect all of them together! My harness is entirely solderless and I retained the manifold support bracket that the clip to, so it made the most sense for me to keep those plugs. It also keeps the harness more serviceable should I ever need to work on it.

Mine in the process:





Finished product, not technically a "tuck" harness, although everything does run under the intake manifold. I ran the driver's side plug with the rest of the harness through the stock hole and made a jumper to cross over under the dash. Removed all vtec wiring and integrated my wideband in. I also retained all of the obdIIb sensors so that if I end up living somewhere with inspection, all I have to do is plug up a 00-01 p75 ecu (I have one, just need to eliminate the immobilizer), screw in a secondary HO2S, and it will run with full emissions:

crx_si-r

Here is my obd1 converted EK tuck harness:
















100% plug n play set up.

I don't use newunitedrachtech I get pins for cheaper from other places because I buy in huge bulk amounts. Connectors they have high min qty orders which are 100 min, used to be 10-20. I use a molex crimper it's the best and for only $40 well worth it.

Those items you circled are just distribution blocks. I eliminate them in my harnesses except for 1. In an EK harness you have 3 different ones.

I also use raychem for my harnesses.

2point1

one of my 96-98 converted to obd-1... i delete all the distribution junction,makes the harness look a lot cleaner..

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Right. Obviously if you're buying in bulk there are better deals out there. For what I was doing I spent less than $60 including shipping to replace the few shells I needed and purchased 50ea of the different pins. Some shells were recoverable from the local U-pull-it too. I would have loved to do all new but by that point it would be cheaper just to buy a manufactured harness. The Molex crimper is also a great tool, I was just pointing out that you don't need anything special, just not the crappy parts store ones.

Your work looks excellent by the way.

crx_si-r

It's a better idea to keep at least 1, relocated under the dash it makes for a great kill switch. Also that appears to be a regular obd1 harness. My conversion still incorporates all the obd2 components (distributor, injectors and alternator) converts ecu plugs to obd1 and still use the factory chassis connector

2point1

thats how the customer wanted it setup....98 civic with a z6 motor using an p28 ecu..no ecu step down harness needed,clean and simple....it does plug into both chassis plugs,the little green plug near the ecu and the drivers side shock tower plug.....i can make it with obd-2 ecu,alternator,distributor and injector plugs no problem......

crx_si-r

subharness wasnt in the pic so wasnt sure if there was one or not. looked kinda short to reach the driver side shock tower plug.

just realized i posted the wrong pics, those are for an obd2a ecu. LOL

2point1

i forgot to put the sub-harness in when i took the pic,but there is a sub-harness for it...pic below is a sub-harness for a eg/dc,pretty much the same for the ek sub-harness....harnesses are made with mil spec wire.....



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crx_si-r

why the loose wires? for the EK should be plug n play, at least thats how i make them

2point1

it is plug and play for the ek..that sub-harness is for eg/dc....its the only pic of a sub-harness i have right now....

crx_si-r

pics of my harness installed on a customers car...
EG:



EF:

Builda'Teg_92

Thats really nice, but i cant see it

crx_si-r

isn't that the point. Lol ;p

2point1

harness with the quick disconnect plug...

[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]



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ReedMann

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for all the info. I will definitely be getting some new pins when I redo my harness.

My third question was asking how long to make the harness. I'm not sure whether I want to use the OEM hole for the harness or not. (I'm open to suggestions for a good spot to run it on an EK.) How much extra length do you guys allow when the harness is run through at a spot that is not OEM? I also plan to have the shock tower connector under the dash since my headlight harnesses are already tucked. How do you guys make the chassis plug reach? Is that what the sub harnesses pictured above are for?

crx_si-r

I make mine different lengths based on chassis and location on firewall. 5 ft from where it all joins is a good length.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Gothca. Five feet sounds about right, but what I would do is get up under the dash with a long section of solid core wire. Shape and bend the wire to mimic the route you want to take from the ecu to where you intend to pass through the firewall. Do the same on the engine side of the firewall to the point where you want the harness to begin to break out. Straighten your two sections of wire and measure. Add 6" so you are confident that you have enough slack.

crx_si-r

Don't forget that much wire will bind and not all pieces of wire will be exactly the same length.

I run all my wiring then cover the main portion and then trim at the end

thedb63

What do you guys do with the shielded wires........oh by the way i bought a chase bays harness.... and for some reason i didnt have ground going to my main relay and i wasnt getting power to the ecu.... i had tom from www.enginewiring.com personally come over and redo the harness that was fucked up!!! oh by the chase bays stop calling me back after they added a obd0 plug on my obd1 harness.....
so after bitching for two weeks and finally getting what i needed they stopped calling me back and stopped answering my emails....i should of went to one of you guys or rywire

i made my own harness as well last year.........and it was nowhere as nice as your guys's but my car started right away lol


here is the one i made