Hayce

I have RHD EK and used the spacer too, no issues with lack of thread and like ^ think it looks fine.

To the guy with the loom hole pic, should have moved it down a bit further (imo). There was a pic on the first page...

turbob18si

Any thoughts or opinions on doing a booster delete using the stock master cylinder? is it possible?

BrandonRyan

Take your oem master off your booster then look at what your working with. i did.. The booster pushes a free floating ROD inside the coupler of your master.
You have to modify and make some type of rod that will rest inside of your master.... it is very possible... and can be done with little or no money.

I messed with it for a few hours.. Got frustrated and went with a 80$ wilwood master. Sold my 1in OEM master for more then i paid for my wilwood.



This is the post i found a year ago, and tried to replicate what he did. http://www.redpepperracing.com/forum...9&#entry273199



Also.. here is index of other DIY stuff he has done. Incredible. http://www.redpepperracing.com/forum...4&#entry307594

turbob18si

is it a single or dual outlet wilwood? Im not tucking the lines on this project just deleting the unneccesary stuff

Professor_X

Do you have enough space to fill up your brake master cylinder?

BrandonRyan

The photo is deceiving. I have a good amount of room to get the reservoir cap off to fill it with a funnel.

Thanks man. Its kinda dusty right now. been sitting for weeks.

ek4kid

iv searched and gotten mixed results. but, im flaring ss hardline for my brakelines. and im tryna figure out a good flare tool for the 37 single flare. i was thinking about the ridgid 377 but i one guy said he only got 6 flares good and the rest was bad? has anyone had troubles with their ridgid 377 flaring stainless steel hard line? need to get one asap to start my swap lol..

jdmdohcek98

iTrader: (1)

i actually already have a spacer but i was looking for a way to avoid using it. when test fitted it with the spacer under dash when i tried bolting the cmc i had maybe 2 threads. how much thread did you get? how thick is your spacer?

BrandonRyan

if your spacer is too thick.. hit it with a da sander with some 80grit. thats what i had to do.... then again.. i got the prototype of the all-in-fab spacer.

Then he reproduced the spacer based upon my findings.

phunhaus

If you're LHD, just thread the shaft up another 1/4 to 1/2 inch and move the jam nut back. That's all. You don't have to waste money on a spacer. The money is better spent on a tap and die set you'll use over and over again in your garage.

jdmdohcek98

iTrader: (1)

I have a tap and die set but my question is if i move the jam nut up 1/4 to 1/2 inch up will it shorten the travel of the shaft? i think if i did that then the shaft on the cmc wouldnt be able to go all the way in. i may be wrong so thats why i am here to find out.

crazyjetsfan22

iTrader: (5)

This is what i did too but i was having trouble with getting the pedal to be at the right height and not stay on the floor. I ran out of time before IA and put the stock one back in. Over winter i am going to mess with it again. It took about 5 min with the tap and die.

BrandonRyan

You'll prob have to cut the shaft a bit also so the shaft dont slide up through where your pin slides through attaching your pedal arm.

phunhaus

You'll be fine. The shaft doesn't determine travel, the pedal arm does. You're only adjusting where the pedal arm contacts the shaft.

You shouldn't have to cut the shaft. When I did mine (before I realized I had to use a spacer for RHD applications) threading the shaft up and bolting everything together resulted in no-contact between pedal arm and shaft-end and allowed plenty of room for the clevis pin.

Moral of the story: if you have a LHD vehicle, buy a tap and die set.

crazyjetsfan22

iTrader: (5)

Yeah it just needs adjustment i was messing with it the night before i left NY to go to IA at about 10pm so i said F it put stock in and go to IA.

I dont really like the look of the spacer. I dont have anything polished on my bay so it would look out of place.

the up and comming

Just got my power prob can't wait to put it in use next week !!!

oneoffaccord

does anyone know what color this is hb is. my little brother wants to know

mymmeryloss

looks green to me

prjct92eh2

looks light blue to me

Those of you that have a booster still, are you still using the check valve on the vacuum line?

phunhaus

Yes, you must.

prjct92eh2

cool, just making sure. put mine on last night.

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

/\ That valvecover looks good there Jimmy

jdmdohcek98

iTrader: (1)

I need some help deciding what color valve cover I should do. Its a 97 civic hatch factory roma red, sir bumpers so most of the trim will be black. Its also going to have spoon calipers and time attack white ce28n's. also going with black fittings and black braided hose. im thinking a spoon blue valve cover or a gloss black valve cover. give me your opinions or maybe some red ek's with different color valve covers , cause I havent been able to find any nice pics.

also ive heard its not a good idea to run the black braided hose under the car because it can break. i have a fuel cell so i am wondering how everyone else with black hose is doing this?

mymmeryloss

spoon valve covers are yellow...

BrandonRyan

^unless you paint over them.