houstonhulk

I own a 1996 Accord with a F22B1, well yesterday I noticed that it was leaking coolant. So I went and removed the air intake and battery to see if I could find where the leak was coming from. Both upper and lower radiator hoses are new so I know it is not coming from there. It appears that the leak is under the starter. I am not aware of any hoses under the starter. Has anyone had this problem before?

VERGOTEx3

are you completely sure its coolant not oil???

redbull-1

Right below the distributor is the ECT sensor. See if you can seen any leaks there.

houstonhulk

Yes, I'm absolutely sure its coolant. It is green and it has water mixed in. I checked the radiator and the res and both are empty. If the o-rings are worn out will it cause it too leak the coolant that fast?

houstonhulk

redbull I didn't find any leaks around the thermostat and inlet. The only place I found coolant was under the starter. I couldn't see anything leaking from above it. I looked under the distributor. I will check again though.

johnlor

have you tried pressure testing the system.

houstonhulk

No, what would I need to do that? Sorry still learning about Hondas.

johnlor

its not just hondas, its basically every car. you would have to get a pressure tester to do this though. basically, you take off the radiator cap and install the pressure tester and apply pressure into the cooling system. the pressure would then cause the coolant to leak out and that is where the leak is.

houstonhulk

I think I found the leak tonight. I believe it is from the hose that is coming from the heater control valve that feeds into the engine. Anyone ever have this happen to them?

holmesnmanny

Ya I just replaced one last week on my girlfriends car. They got them at Kragen/O'reilly for like 15 bucks.

HondaPartsHero

Yeah I would replace both while you are in there.

houstonhulk

I was going to replace all 3 of them. Now I dont' want to sound like an idiot, but I bet its too late. What hoses do I ask for at O'reilly? Are they the ones pictured here no. 2, 3 & 4?


http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...y5=WATER+VALVE

market525

At an auto parts store, you are just going to get bulk hose. Give the area a good look over .... are you able to use regular bulk hose there & make the bends you need to make? If the answer is "no" then you'll need to order the hoses you mentioned directly from Honda -- they will be pre-formed to make those bends, as you see in the link / illistration you provided.

If it were my car, I would spend the extra bucks to order Honda hoses. But your call ....

poorman212

There are some places you can get those molded hoses besides the dealer. Most places that carry Gates belts/hose (CARQUEST, NAPA, ?)should be able to get you what you need. I got some a few weeks ago from there.

houstonhulk

Thanks poorman, I found oem hoses for pretty cheap at Majestic Honda and it will take the guess work out of the equation. I found that when I use straight bulk hose and try to bend it, that it would kink on the bend. Thanks for the tip though.

bseriescrxsi

the hoses are upper rad hose lower rad hose and heater bore bypass hose...or if your talking only ones behind the engine heater core bypass hose(s) will be 3....2 on the adjuster side 1 behind the engine....be careful taking them away from the firewall...you can bend the heater core ends out of shape then your looking at getting a new core...goodluck

nus_dogg

I was just gonna say check your heater hose going to the head.

Jeff Baksa

1996 Accord my dad owns. Through your posts I have found a crack in the hose at the connection end on the motor. This hose runs from the motor to the mechanical switch that feeds the heater box. This is located next to the starter beneath the distributor. Unscrew the air box (filter) top, pull it back and tie it up out of the way so you can access the area of interest. The hose is about 1.5" OD. There are spring clamps sealing the connection to the motor and switch, the top clamp spring side is facing the temperature sensor and you cannot use pliers to remove it. I used a screw driver pressing the side of the spring clamp that would expand it to rotate the clamp 180degs where I was able to use pliers to remove it. BE CAREFUL not to break that sensor.
Easy Repair.