poor mans r REBUILD GONE WRONG
#1
poor mans r REBUILD GONE WRONG
whats up ht? so i recently replaced rings in my gsr block and im having mad oil consumption problems. i have p73-00 pistons and used oem honda rings 81mm for p30 pistons. could this be a problem or are all b series rings interchangeable? anyway ever since rehoning, re-ringing, ive still been burning oil (1qt a week)and its now past the 1000 mile mark and my car smokes like a train but pulls hard like one too . so is it safe to say my oil rings didnt seat properly? because from researching on here and other forums thats what its sounding like. due to having the afr too rich and fuel washing the cyl's, and ultimately burning up the rings. thats what i think bc i was runing a p73 map on gsr cams( i was told they were ctr cams)...what do you think?
valve seals were replaced while head was off so that variable is eliminated.
i also deleted the pcv system from recycling into the intake system. so i run breather lines from the block and v. cover to a catch can now. this helped a little with the smoke, but not the consumption.
a comp test and leakdown were also performed so i know its gotta be oil rings. comp numbers were good across but the leak down showed leakages greater than 20% and 1 cyl was over 30% and you could hear the air escaping out of the dipstick tube.
i also want to know would it be wise to go to 81.25mm rings and file them down since my block has been honed a few times now, or will i be good with 81mm still? i know boring it over is proper engine building technique but im trying to keep from pulling the block out.
also are there any tips for the break in? ive read the link to mototuneusa and motoman, i will def try this way next time. im just worried bc it says the rings only have a small window to seat, im just worried about going through this again and the same **** happening.
valve seals were replaced while head was off so that variable is eliminated.
i also deleted the pcv system from recycling into the intake system. so i run breather lines from the block and v. cover to a catch can now. this helped a little with the smoke, but not the consumption.
a comp test and leakdown were also performed so i know its gotta be oil rings. comp numbers were good across but the leak down showed leakages greater than 20% and 1 cyl was over 30% and you could hear the air escaping out of the dipstick tube.
i also want to know would it be wise to go to 81.25mm rings and file them down since my block has been honed a few times now, or will i be good with 81mm still? i know boring it over is proper engine building technique but im trying to keep from pulling the block out.
also are there any tips for the break in? ive read the link to mototuneusa and motoman, i will def try this way next time. im just worried bc it says the rings only have a small window to seat, im just worried about going through this again and the same **** happening.
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Re: poor mans r REBUILD GONE WRONG
did you have correct clocking of the rings like stated above, and correct ring gaps? Also, the correct ring placements i.e. oil ring and other rings in correct grooves.
#6
Re: poor mans r REBUILD GONE WRONG
yes the rings were placed correctly. on oem honda pistons/rings the bottom compression ring will only fit (nicely) in the middle groove. it is too thick for the top groove and wont fit. this may be different for aftermarket pistons...and both oil rings were set correctly and all rings were clocked with a ring positioning chart
now about gapping the rings...is it 100% necessary? even with standard bore oem rings?because if so...
now about gapping the rings...is it 100% necessary? even with standard bore oem rings?because if so...
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Re: poor mans r REBUILD GONE WRONG
Ring gap is very important a good rule of thumb is for every inch of bored you need to have .001 of gap on the ring but this is subject to change if you run higher compression, boost, or nos and also how far the first ring sits down from the top of the piston with how it is design this is when terminal expansion comes in to play which I don't have time to explain. So yes the rings need to be set in the block one at a time and the gap needs to be checked with a gap gauge and file if need be. I'm a machinist and have seen this countless times on guy not gaping rings correctly. Hope this helps
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