gotjesus

I have a p72 obd1 94-95 ECU. Does anyone , or can any one help me identify the pins for the crank sensor? I have a 98 b18c1 in my 94 hatch, with my stock 1.5 cx wiring harness. i need to run wires from my crank sensor to my ecu, but dont know with pins onthe ecu to run them too. HELP!!!! I'm almost done with my ghetto wiring. i ran vtec, 02 sensor, , and now crank sensor is all i have left.

b20turbojason

obd1 does not have a crank angle sensor obd2 has the crank angle sensor

gotjesus

but my engine is obd2, i need to hook up the crank sensor to my obd1 gsr computer. can anyone help me?.

b20turbojason

ok so the ecu that you have is wrong. obd1 ecu's do not have a crank angle sensor. you need to get a obd2 gsr ecu. if the motor has a crank angle sensor. if the motor does not and the wiring harness does from the old motor then you just don't use it.
if the motor does and you get a obd2 ecu then you just plug in the wire harness to the motor and the harness to the ecu no repinning.
you do only have to repin one sensor. it is the air temp sensor. the sensor that plugs into the intake tube. you have to repin it at the ecu.a14 and a12 i think. i think you swap them.

b20turbojason

never mind i wasn't reading right. too early for me. you are a 94 civic. you don't run the crank angle sensor. the motor has it but the ecu doesn't. so the ecu will not look for it.
i am sorry

gotjesus

Really? i dont have to run it? well, i wish it was that easy. see, my problem is, is that my engine is not running right, cause the crank sensor is not hooked up to anything. the wires are just there, open. I heard that if that sensor is not hooked up, the engine's timing can mess up. I also have alot of popping and backfire when I rev it up. what's your feedback on this??

gotjesus

thats not true. obd1 does have crank sensor. my friend has a 93 hatchback with a 94 obd1 h22a in it, and he has a crank sensor.

b20turbojason

all 94-95 b series motors do not have crank angle sensors. maybe the h22 does but that is a h22. did you check to see your map sensor and tps sensor is right. they have the same clips and they are easy to mix up. that will make your car idle funny and when you rev it up and cuts out. also remmeber the sensor that i was talking about the one on the intake. if you do not have it hooked up right then it will run funny. but the crank sensor has to be seen by the ecu. if the ecu does not have a crank sensor there is no way to hook it up the crank sensor from the motor. if you do have a obd1 ecu it does not have a crank sensor pin.this is what i am about to do with my car it is obd2 right now but i am about to buy a obd2-obd1 harness and a ob1 ecu so i won't have to have the crank sensor and the 2nd o2. when i do this i do not have to remove the sensor itself just the signal that it is getting from the ecu.

wickedEFguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Teamsteadfasthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also have alot of popping and backfire when I rev it up. what's your feedback on this??</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your poping then your timing is probably too retarded or timing belt is off a tooth. check and make sure that your base timing is set to 16 degrees and that your timing is on at BTDC

poison

b20turbojason, do me a favor and be quiet. You are releasing wrong info.

You are confusing CKF (which is Crankshaft Fluctuation Sensor) which is on USDM OBD2 motors. That is located at the OIL PUMP, not the Distributor (which the original poster is requesting).

There IS NO "Crank angle sensor".

The proper term is the CKP or Crankshaft Position Sensor. This sensor is located in the distributor, followed by the TDC Sensor (which is Top Dead Center sensor), and the CYP (which is Cylinder Position sensor).

JDM OBD2 and ALL OBD1 motors do not have a CKF sensor (again this is the sensor by the oil pump). Only US OBD2 motors have this sensor.

As for using an OBD1 ecu, OBD1 engine harness, and OBD2 distributor, you have the following options:

You can re-pin the distributor by using the OBD1 dual plugs, or the OBD2 single style plug. You can either splice/solder, but I recommend pulling the pins and just re-pinning it to follow it's proper sensors.

Here is a diagram I made for this. Simply remove the color pinned, and put the converting OBD color into the pin for which the sensor requires:



Just FYI, for your original question. The CKP if as follows:

For OBD2 colors, the colors are Lt. Blue (+) and Wht (-).
For OBD1 colors, the colors are Blue/Grn (+) and Blue/Yel (-).

You should not have to wire it to the ECU, but to verify there is a complete connection, grab a digital multimeter and follow from the wires, leading to the B15 and B16 pinout.

peace.

b20turbojason

sorry missunderstud the question

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20turbojason &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry missunderstud the question </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's cool. I understand you are trying to help.

gotjesus

ok, guys, i appreciate the help. but ther's one thing i need to also specify. let me re type my stats. my car a 94civic cx hatch(obd1). i have a 98 obd2 gsr in it. BUT, i am using my stock obd1 wiring harness, stock 1.5 injectors, and stock distributor off my 1.5, since the gsr engine did not have injectors, distributor or wiring harness with it. and a obd 1 gsr 94-95 ecu. n-e-way, my problem is is that supposeably, i was told that since my crank sensor's wires are just hanging there, thats why my engine stutters really bad like its runnin out of gas. and it pops and backfires alot. i have no codes though. no check engine light , no nuttin. does this clear this up now
????