ej6_4dr

I hate those set screws.... so much...

It looks like you're doing a fantastic job with the car so far! Another issue that is very well known, and Honda has recognized as an issue.... Rear Trailing Arm bushings.Mine had completely torn through on both sides, they looked worse than this:



I'd go take a look at them, and see if they need to be replaced.

Sevas

ive got a k&n filter on the way, the filter it had was so dirty and was not breathing very well at all, just couldn't stand the janky *** intake that it had on it, I was gonna just change the filter but it needed new rubber sleeves aswell.

id prefer to go back to stock but it's much more expensive.

civic402lx

No junkyard in your area? I drive 1-2hrs to get to a pick-and-pull yard to get parts. Cheap, oem.

Sevas

There is one about an hour or two away but I didn't think about that for a stock intake. I'll have to check their website.

AdrianClayton

If you weren't located in Texas, i would offer to dig mine out and send it to you. I've even got a k&N drop in filter for it.

Sevas

i appreciate the offer man!

Imgonna head out to my local junk yard this weekend. I'm hoping to find an Ex or Si cluster, since my Dx doesn't have a tachometer. Does the cluster have to be from another manual?

tony_2018

If you want to drive arond with tie rods like that, all you. Thats my answer.

AdrianClayton

It doesn't have to be, but if its from an auto the PRND will be lit up is all.

Sevas

Went ahead and changed the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor.

Had a couple questions though.

So this just started tonight, if I'm driving at about 55mph and above I start hearing a slight squeaking noise. It's very high pitched and short, almost sounds like a couple baby chicks are chirping from my from wheel wells. What could've cause this as I've never heard it before?

also it seemed today like I had much more wind noise and resistance when driving over 40mph.

is this normal to hear loud wind gushing noise? Or is it more common an issue with the window or door seal and how can I check properly?

petr0lb0mb

Alternator bearings? Or maybe even the belt? Does the chirping rhythm coincide with wheel speed or engine speed? If you push in the clutch and coast, does the noise change or go away? If you feather the brakes, does it change or go away? If you downshift but maintain the same speed, does the noise change or go away?

AdrianClayton

If the noise changes with engine speed, and sounds close to the drivers side, I would remove each belt one at a time and listen to see if the noise goes away. From there it could be a belt or a bearing. If the noise changes with road speed, I would listen while manipulating the brakes and or the steering. If pressing the brakes makes the sound change either louder or quieter look into that. If turning the steering changes the sound look into the wheel bearings.

Sevas

So I went on a 2 hour trip to a junkyard today looking for a gauge cluster.

on the way the first 20 minutes I could hear slight chirping as before from the same side only when above 55mph. It did not change or increase with speed and acceleration or depressing the clutch.

after 20 minutes or so, it went away and didn't come back at all. Then right when I was getting home the temp gauge went all the way up and there was coolant all over the engine bay when I got home, and the sponge by the radiator cap was soaked in coolant. Pretty sure there's a crack near the seam by the radiator cap under the sponge in this picture

Should I go OEM or aftermarket for a new radiator? And if aftermarket which brand?


also when replacing the radiator is it as simple as unplugging and draining the radiator and then putting the new one in and connecting the hoses and fill it up? Do any of the transmission hoses flow through the radiator?

civic402lx

Are you certain its the radiator itself and not the cap gone bad? Check the cap for the inner seal crack. If you must replace the radiator, oem, mishimoto, koyo. Oem radiator cap. If your car is auto then you will have tranny fluid cooling hoses attached to the lower portion of the radiator. You must disconnect them prior. Drain, Uninstall, replace, fill coolant, bleed air out. Take your time. Its easy. U must bleed the air out completely, its important.

Sevas

ive a manual tranny so will I not have any tranny fluid flowing through the radiator?

and I'll check the cap. Now that I think about it that spongy strip is pretty wet/moist most the time when I check but idk why I never thought anything of it. I'll double check today, how can I check the cap

AdrianClayton

You can check the cap simply by looking at the gasket surfaces. As for the radiator ive had great success with my "no name" Aluminum dual core half rad from ebay, and it only cost me about $100 shipped!
96-00 Honda Civic EK EM 2/3/4 door Aluminum Radiator MT Manual Trans + Black Fan
I got one the same as that but mine did not come with a fan.

Sevas

So I replaced the radiator with one I ordered through denso.

Also had a quick question regarding the location of the gas tank. Is it at all right above the muffler?

The muffler heat shield is rusted half way off so it was making some loud vibrating noises until I tightened it down around the muffler with some hose clamps. Would it be safe to just remove it all together? Since even with the clamp it still vibrates against the muffler

DanielP

I personally think it'd be safer not to. How close is your muffler to the gas tank?

Jcp385

Sweet car. I'd say cleaner than the one I just picked up. I'll be watching this thread, looks like you're doing or planning to do a lot of the same things that I am.

Sevas

Havent posted in a while since I opened my own mobile Detailing business butnive still been working on the civic. so I figured I'd update the thread with the things I've done recently.

i replaced the following:
clutch master and slave cylinder.
inner and outer tie rods on both sides
changed oil and filter.


fix d the rattle, used a huge hose clamp to hold the muffler heat shield in place. But now I'm having a different handful of issues


whenever I drive above 4000 rpm the belts squeal occasionally but only with the AC turned on, gonna check tomorrow as I figure it may just be a lose belt, but I'm looking for input on what else this could be.

also whenever I'm driving at around 2500-4000 rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear I can head what sounds like a rattle that stops when I let off the gas, doesn't change if I turn or anything seems like it's mainly when the rpm is high but isn't related to speed t seems as I can be going 60 in 5th and hear nothing, seems to only be under acceleration, any ideas if maybe something could be lose or just rattling around in there? Sounds like a small metallic rattle.
Restored my headlights the proper way this time. Sealed aswell.


Cleaned out under the gas lid
Update on engine bay. New cap and rotor, plugs, wires, radiator, and a few other things.
Clutch master cylinder was leaking and I was losing pressure. Ordered it along with the slave cylinder and figured I'd replace both.
Also ordered new inner and outer tie rods for both sides along with boots for both.
Tie rods were pretty damaged
Old vs new you can see the black gunk leaking from the old one on top.



Things ok my todo list include replacing the rear trailing arm bushings on both sides and maybe looking to get a new **** shifter but who knows, suggestions are welcome!

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

suggestions? ill go the cheap improvements via better factory parts from the junkyard.

1. civic ex front brakes. bigger rotors/calipers= better stopping. wheel bearings and lower balljoints done while out of car= success. take this time to upgrade to decent pads.
2. y8/z6 intake manifold to rid yourself of that failed abortion of a y7 manifold
3. y8/z6 transmission. hands down the best possible upgrade with the most difference in the "butt dyno". the improved gearing makes the y7 much more fun to drive. clutch kit when you swap.
4. with your new found better gearing, braking, and slight bump in HP, time to lower it to enjoy curves to the fullest. do NOT buy shitty ebay sleeves or springs. invest in a set of decent struts and conservative springs, or go all out on a nice set of coils
5. better gearing, braking, handling, and your new clutch all want tires. i'm all for the sleeper stock look, grab a set like these:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...omCompare1=yes

job done. fun daily driver with most wear items covered.

Sevas

The ex tranny is something I've thought about for a while but all the ex's at the pick n pull are always automatics.
is the Y8 manifold swap what's known as a "mini me"?
also is it possible to swap out the rear drums for calipers?


Got off work today and the car wouldn't start, no clicking, still have power to the dash and lights. Look on the floor board and see the interlock stopper pad crumbled into pieces on the floor. Is it easy to push another in there? I may just try and superglue a penny over the hole.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

the penny trick works, the pad is not too difficult to replace. yes, the rear disc is a common and easy swap. a mini me would be the entire y8 head, vtec ecu, essentially turning the motor you have into a y8.

Sevas

gotcha, all things to add to my to do list then 😂 The tranny swap sounds intimidating I've never done anything like that but would love to learn.

how difficult is the manifold swap? And what does that help with? Is the y7 intake manifold that bad? Is there anything I should look for on the y8 manifolds from EX's at the junkyard before I pull them?

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

yes, make sure they're from a 96-98 AUTO. reason being is that 99-00 use an "air assist" system which will leave you with massive vacuum leaks. the reason you want one from an auto is that your car uses a 3 wire iac valve, as does the auto ex.. manual does NOT. the trans swap is very easy, and will give you the opportunity to rebuild your sloppy linkage and put a new clutch kit in. Y8 vs Z6 intake manifold - again , for once and for all - D-series.org

Sevas

glad you said that about the intake manifold from an auto ex, I would have not known.

so a 96-98 ex automatic intake manifold is what I need for my 99 Dx manual? Just clarifying before I pull one. I figured I'd need a manual one which are harder to find in my local pick n pull so that's good.

could you give more info on sloppy linkage? And yeah that'd be a good time to replace the clutch and all aswell. Do you need special tools or a special jack?