Lizardslap

ok so the car is obd2-a

I found it out I did have the wires crossed on the splice where I hooked it into the 2wire IACV plug

probably because they are completely different colors on it of blue and yellow/black

but I will add the correct info just in case someone out there is doing this to and stumbles across this topic

take the green wire and splice it to the black/blue wire yellow/black wire

then take the black/blue wire and splice it to the yellow/black wire

and run a wire from the orange wire to the ecu pin 13

also my car 2wire iacv had a pin in A 12 that needs to be moved to A14

just gonna add this change significantly improved my gas mileage about 33 in the city now :D

still running good also did d16y7 fuel injectors and d16y7 throttle body swap as well
thanks


my source
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/wiring.96-98_2.jpg
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring...schematics.gif

Former User

Car, engine, wire harness?

Why are you doing this?

Lizardslap

96 del sol si
OBD2-A
motor was a d16y8 now swapped with a d16y7

when I swapped it I left the y8 manifold and throttle body attached to the y7 motor (unknown it was wrong at the time)

car NEEDS 3wire IACV but came stock with the 2 wire IACV so Im swapping the throttle body computer (P2E-5speed) and trying to pin the ECU to accept the 3wire IACV

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

So you swapped the Y8 manifold on to your Y7? I am guessing you are running the Y8 harness still. Your car is a 5 speed right?

Lizardslap

yes but to be fair I never even sat in a honda before it and I was like free car just needs motor and reused all the parts I could at the time not knowing compatibility issues

and yes 5speed

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

You could just run the p28 ecu that came in the 96 del sol for now and just have a cel for VTEC solenoid and pressure switch and most likely knock sensor. Are you in an area that requires cels to be off for inspection purposes?

Lizardslap

I am getting that cel right now but apparently it also gives me idle problems as well as **** for gas mileage like 25 that was the reason for injector swap and 3 wire iacv and the p2e ecu

I have already done the normal maintenance of everything to try and fix the mpg and no still not fixed
I goggled somewhere and found that doing that will give you both of these problems

I really dont want to start this car and have it blow up in my face and cook the ecu for pinning/wiring it wrong

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

The knock sensor issue could make your car get bad fuel mileage I suppose, but VTEC would not. I will check some schematics and let you know...

Lizardslap

I found it out I did have the wires crossed on the splice where I hooked it into the 2wire IACV plug

probably because they are completely different colors on it of blue and yellow/black

but I will add the correct info just in case someone out there is doing this to and stumbles across this topic

take the green wire and splice it to the black/blue wire yellow/black wire

then take the black/blue wire and splice it to the yellow/black wire

and run a wire from the orange wire to the ecu pin 13

also my car 2wire iacv had a pin in A 12 that needs to be moved to A14



just gonna add this change significantly improved my gas mileage about 33 in the city now :D

still running good also did d16y7 fuel injectors and d16y7 throttle body swap as well
thanks

weavertime1

iTrader: (2)

Good Deal!

ferio-ichi3

Sorry to bring this this thread back, but i have a ex manifold with a 3 wire plug for iacv, can i still do the 2 wire iacv but stil use the 3 wire plug? I understand you are supposed to ditch the orange wire, so can i cut the orange wire from the connector and have it work?

HondaPartsHero

First off list your year/make/model/engine/ecu. Secondly you can't use a 3 wire IACV on any computer except on any P2E or auto P2P/P2N so there's no reason to do the conversion unless you're running a manual P2P then you'll have to run a 2 wire. And no you can't just cut the wire as the 3 wire and 2 wire IACV are totally different.

ferio-ichi3

Sorry, 2000 civic lx auto to manual swap. As stated, i got an ex intake manifold with the iacv on/under the tb..i should reword what i said, since i want to use the new IM with my set up, can i do the 2 wire from the ecu? Moving the one wire over, and depin the orange wire, then to the plug that connects to the iacv, and just cut the orange wire..right? Will that work?

thericepatch

The iacv and the ecu need to match. This thread was addressing changing both in order to eliminate the vtec code. You cannot run a 2 wire iacv from a 3 wire ecu, which it seems is your question. The Y8 intake you got was for an manual, if I'm reading it right, which has a 2 wire iacv which will not run off a y7 ecu, as they are set up for 3 wire. What you need to do is swap the throttle body off of the y7 intake which has the 3 wire onto the y8 intake. Don't worry about the 2 wire iac, just leave it bolted up.

ferio-ichi3

I checked, the manifold i have is for auto, which has the 3 wire iacv, so i guess im ok..is the manual ecu for a 2000 lx use 2 wire iacv or 3?

Former User

3

ruinedeksdn92

ok so my question is thus. I have a 99 ex sedan five speed that had a blown y8. I bought a y7 for the car and am in the midst of the y8 im swap. The y7 throttle body has the three wire IACV but my factory y8 manifold has the two wire. I have the manual y8 vtec ecu and I’m pretty sure 99 y7 auto ecu. Do I have to use the three wire iacv on the y7 throttle body or can I just block it off and continue to use the y8 two wire iacv? I’m using the factory y8 99 harness. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

JRCivic1

No Y7 ECU runs/controls a 2-wire IACV... they are ALL 3-wire IACV types. So, if you intend to use a 2-wire IACV, you will have to use a Y8 ECU... which won't run the Y7 engine properly at all. Alternatively, you could use the Y7 ECU and find an AUTOMATIC Y8 Intake Manifold, which has a throttle body on it with a 3-wire IACV... and this combination will run things MUCH closer to OE. Make sure you get an I/M that has the flange that matches the engine... '96-98 or '99-00 (which has the vacuum accumulator rail at the top with a port in the middle top edge for the Idle Air Injection Valve.

ruinedeksdn92

ok. So here’s where I’m at. And I can’t find the proper wiring diagram. Motor is obd2b y7 have factory obd2b y8 intake manifold. I have the three wire y7 iacv and plug. I have a 99 y7 auto ecu and a 99 y8 ecu factory with the car. I’m using y8 rail with y7 injectors. I’m having a bad idle surge. It’s like a cammed sounding idle surge but faster lol. This is with the y7 ecu. The y8 ecu with the y7 injectors and y8 throttle body and y8 harness with two wire iacv will surge up to like 3500 then when it drops it bogs real bad breaks up if I floor it it sounds like it’s running on one cylinder spitting and popping. But when it starts to surge again it’s clear and crisp. Haven’t attempted to drive with this set up. With the same set up by y7 ecu it runs but has that shitty cammed sounding idle surge which will catch me in between shifts making it jumpy or I’ll have to rev it higher to try to escape it lol. I’m at the point where I am certain I have to use the y7 throttle body with three wire iacv. I don’t currently have the means to buy any other components I have to use what I have. At this point I believe I just need for certain the wiring diagram to convert my two wire iacv on my obd2b 99 harness to match the three wire iacv on the y7 throttle body and the proper pin layout for the obd2b y7 ecu. That’s literally all I need is that diagram which wires I splice to which and where I need to run the third wire from the plug to the 99 obd2b y7 ecu.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Does your Y8 manifold have the air injection ports? If so, did you perform the block-off modification yet?

ruinedeksdn92

yup blocked em off.