Jwbetley

I just finished my set-up on my civic wagon. Unfortunately, the engine is supposedly over heating.



I am using an autometer temperature sensor because my OEM sensor stopped working after the swap. The gauge will slowly creep to <250F however the coolant is not boiling. I can take the radiator cap off with very little pressure.


The top radiator hose is hot and the bottom radiator hose is very warm; too warm to hold onto for more than five
seconds. I am using a dual core aluminum radiator. I am currently using a thermostat. I am running 50/50 pre-diluted antifreeze.

Could this be a warped head? Could this be just a lack of air fplw through the radiator being that the intercooler/ bumper is now blocking it. Could running the radiator fan constantly solve this problem? Please give me some feedback. I am a bit lost.

Thanks

-Justin

EFbomb

bleed the cooling system ... then do it once again just for good measure.
I'd replace the thermostat too because its cheap and its simple, then bleed the system again.

then check the oil for any weird colors, and check the coolant system for any oil

sohczcturbo

Have you made sure you fan is turning on? and a fail safe 180 degree thermostat is only about $15 at a local parts store. And as EFbomb said, bleed the system repeatedly to let out any air.

JaredKaragen

did you bleed the cooling system with the heater on full blast? then start, cap off after it takes it max?

RandomNeeha

when you bleed the system you could have build up in the hoses/heart core try to flush the system with a hose and just let it run through for a little while before you try again and you might want to call autometer because some of those things dont work so great as well as check the thermo. like stated above....

sp00led

jumper your fan wire to rule out the thermostat switch. Put a peice of paper in front of your fan to confirm it is pulling and not pushing. I feel your pain on the running hot tip. My car always wants to but since it cooled off to 70F not 100F it is much better.

powerofdreams8

Another vote for just needs bled.

SuperTeg95

When you take your radiator cap off, is the motor running? IF you take the cap off after you turn the car off it should have pressure. If not then that could be your problem. Maybe you need a new rad. cap.

jewjew bean

I say your gauge is off..... at 250, your wouldn't be able to go near the hose without pain

JaredKaragen

Agreed... Where did you install the sensor? Did you tap out the hole for the OEM sensor and make it fit? If so it could be pushing up against the head surface on the inside giving you incorrect results.

I would say use a coffee thermometer to check the temp after u pull the cap off, or while your warming it up with the cap off.

Also use the thermometer to check the temp of the coolant hose right at the thermostat; but I must confess; 99% of the time it is because you did a flush and did not add coolant afterwards to neutralize the detergent (it causes foam inside the cooling system), or it's not completely bled when you run it. I have see people top-off about 10 times, then close and think it's ok only to overheat; When I filled the system, I filled it while running till topped, closed, idled for 1-3 min, shutoff till I could open the cap, and whadya know, lots of room for more water.

93supercoupe

at 250degree's u wouldnt be able to open the radiator cap without getting covered w/ boiling coolant.

When u bleed ur system AGAIN AND AGAIN, make sure that u have the car jacked up in the front.
Also, make sure ur heater **** is in the heating position, not on, but on the the "hot" side of the dial so coolant will freely flow the heater core and not cause a pocket.

Also, get ur stock guage working, it shouldnt be hard, and compare the to guages.

If ur not boiling over and are able to take the cap w/o coolant shooting 10ft in the air then it seems ur guage is gayer than aids.

How does the car run and what does ur coolant temp. sensor read when ur tunning the car?And what are u using to tune the car w/?